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 Post subject: Spark Plugs 8 or 9???
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
What is different about these??? something to do with the heat range??? why would an 8 be used instead of a 9???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
that's the heat range, the 9 is colder than a 8.

You seeing alot of deposits building up on your plug?

If so going to a hotter plug will keep them cleaner longer the heat keeps it burned off.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
No deposits... but atvr had an 8 in the watercooled head??? I would think they would want to keep it cooler...
Been riding most of the day!!! here in az. I love these works shock!!! Can't wait to get some for the fronts!!! I feel I need a water pump to keep the flow going through the radiator going better... A water temp gauge. and I think my fuel pump might be going bad... seems to loose fuel after about 10 15 minutes... then it catches up afer a few minutes rest...
Other than that having a blast... Pictures later...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
No deposits... but atvr had an 8 in the watercooled head??? I would think they would want to keep it cooler...
Been riding most of the day!!! here in az. I love these works shock!!! Can't wait to get some for the fronts!!! I feel I need a water pump to keep the flow going through the radiator going better... A water temp gauge. and I think my fuel pump might be going bad... seems to loose fuel after about 10 15 minutes... then it catches up afer a few minutes rest...
Other than that having a blast... Pictures later...


The heat range of the plug has nothing to do with the heat load applied to the head, or I should say is not significant, your only concern should be the amount of deposits on the plug not heat into your head.

Go here and read read read
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml

Why do you "feel" you need a pump, post some detail pics of your cooling loop from the head to the radiator.

I would fix the intermittent fuel delivery problem ASAP or you will POOFKABBOOM the Engine again!!!!


http://pilotodyssey.com/sparkplug.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Oh
Post some riding area pics too :shock:

Exactly where you riding?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Oh
Post some riding area pics too :shock:

Exactly where you riding?


Didn't get pix of riding area, no place for camera... (I'm a mutt...)

West of PHX Interstate 10 exit 103 hassayampa river bottom... Right next door to a truckstop (parking restraunt etc...) Lots of trails with hardpack, silt beds sandy river bottoms small hills...

I got about 16 miles of riding per my gps before fuel problems... another9.9 after I thought I fixed it... I put a pilot jet into the return line, but didn't solve... I topped off the tank and she acted great most of the way... If she gets below the petcock is when it started acting up... That's why I'm guessing fuel pump??? I am getting alot of bubbles in the lines after the fuel filter???
Is my fuel cap supposed to be airtight??? it has started leaking a little out of the top???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Why do you "feel" you need a pump, post some detail pics of your cooling loop from the head to the radiator.

I would fix the intermittent fuel delivery problem ASAP or you will POOFKABBOOM the Engine again!!!!


http://pilotodyssey.com/sparkplug.htm


front of head(car) to top of radiator. pix in camera I feel the hoses and way hot??? and sometimes one is hotter than the other. then vise versa the next time???
Why??? peace of mind!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1419
Location: San Diego
You really shouldn't need the pump. The hose going to the top of the radiator should always be hotter than the one coming out of the bottom.

I used to ride at Hassayampa river when I was going to school in Phoenix in the '80's, lots of riding to be done there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I had a good time!! maybe I'll get a temp gauge first... to see what I'm working with!!! I bought some fans (2) from a goldwing 1500. I plan on making a ramair on top, with a hinge and the second fan gets mounted on the scoop behind the seat!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:35 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
you may want to check the two pick up tubes running from the petcock into the fuel tank. I have seen several 350's with holes rusted through one of the pick up tubes. As soon as the fuel gets below the hole in the tube it starts sucking air and work run right. when it starts running poorly switch over to reserve and see if it runs correct.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:11 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
DC wrote:
you may want to check the two pick up tubes running from the petcock into the fuel tank. I have seen several 350's with holes rusted through one of the pick up tubes. As soon as the fuel gets below the hole in the tube it starts sucking air and work run right. when it starts running poorly switch over to reserve and see if it runs correct.


I have kreemed the tank... I know this won't plug the holes on the pickup tubes... I didn't see a way of replacing the tubes, so I guess there is no way of repairing this??? I am wondering if I use the spun tank and let it drain into the main tank if this will keep my fuel level up high enough???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: CT
Get rid of the stock tank and just use the spun tank. Your performance will be much more consistant (you won't get the air bubbles in the fuel system) you will have easy access to the carb by removing the stock fuel tank, and you will be eliminating the headache of the fuel pump, check valve etc. One hose to the carb and all the fuel system problems are gone for good.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
What about keeping the fuel pump with the spun tank??? I thing if you go gravity fed you have to change something in the way the carb is set up???
I like the idea of getting to the carb easier!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Bahh I found a Yellow tank!!! LOL Here we go!!!

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/fuel/buggyfuel1.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
Bahh I found a Yellow tank!!! LOL Here we go!!!

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/fuel/buggyfuel1.htm



Where can I find a used semi tank to mount on the hoser hauler, I keep seeing huge differences in fuel prices while on the road.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: CT
I put a gravity feed on brooks 350. Ran the hose from the tank to the carb and just rejetted. We did not change the needle and seat like some people say. Never had a problem with the gravity feed flooding the carb or Engine, both running or sitting overnight with the fuel petcok left on. Get the center fill tank and get it in aluminum. Brooks has dented his up pretty good during some rollovers and never sprouted any leaks. I'm sure a plastic tank would have broken or split.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
The easiest would be to find a junk/salvage yard specializing in big trucks. I would guess about 500.00 dollars??? The huge difference is road use taxes. Some states charges up to .36 a gallon (CA)... some as little as .16 per gallon... Your Illinios gets .35... I have to pay this for each state I drive through... Miles in state divided by mpg = gallons used... whether I buy it there or not...



These rates are based on the rate as of Saturday, March 10, 2007, and are subject to change without notice.


State Effective Date State Fuel Used
Tax Rate State Credit Rate
for Gallons Purchased State Mileage
Tax Rate Ad Valorem Tax
AB 01/2007 0.2944 0.2944 0.0000 0.0000
AG 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
AK 02/2001 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
AL 11/2004 0.1900 0.1900 0.0000 0.0000
AR 10/2006 0.2250 0.2250 0.0000 0.0048
AZ 07/2000 0.2600 0.2600 0.0000 0.0000
BC 01/2007 0.4907 0.4907 0.0000 0.0000
BJ 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
CA 01/2007 0.3670 0.3670 0.0000 0.0000
CO 01/1990 0.2050 0.2050 0.0000 0.0000
CP 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
CT 07/2002 0.2600 0.2600 0.0000 0.0000
DC 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
DE 01/1990 0.2200 0.2200 0.0000 0.0000
EM 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
FL 01/2007 0.3057 0.3057 0.0000 0.0000
GA 12/2006 0.1520 0.1520 0.0000 0.0000
IA 07/2006 0.2250 0.2250 0.0000 0.0000
ID 04/2001 0.2500 0.2500 0.0000 0.0000
IL 02/2006 0.3500 0.3500 0.0000 0.0000
IN 01/2003 0.2700 0.1600 0.0000 0.0000
JA 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
KS 10/2006 0.2600 0.2600 0.0000 0.0102
KY 10/2006 0.2220 0.1530 0.0285 0.0000
LA 01/1990 0.2000 0.2000 0.0000 0.0000
MA 01/1990 0.2100 0.2100 0.0000 0.0000
MB 01/2007 0.3762 0.3762 0.0000 0.0000
MD 01/1990 0.2425 0.2425 0.0000 0.0000
ME 07/2006 0.2790 0.2790 0.0000 0.0000
MI 11/2006 0.2780 0.2780 0.0000 0.0000
MN 01/1990 0.2000 0.2000 0.0000 0.0000
MO 07/2002 0.1700 0.1700 0.0000 0.0000
MS 01/1990 0.1800 0.1800 0.0000 0.0000
MT 01/2006 0.2775 0.2775 0.0000 0.0000
NB 01/2007 0.5528 0.5528 0.0000 0.0000
NC 01/2006 0.2990 0.2990 0.0000 0.0000
ND 07/2005 0.2300 0.2300 0.0000 0.0000
NE 07/2006 0.2710 0.2710 0.0000 0.0000
NF 01/2007 0.5397 0.5397 0.0000 0.0000
NH 01/1990 0.1800 0.1800 0.0000 0.0000
NJ 01/1990 0.1750 0.1750 0.0000 0.0000
NL 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
NM 07/2004 0.2100 0.2100 0.0438 0.0000
NS 01/2007 0.5038 0.5038 0.0000 0.0000
NT 08/1998 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
NV 01/1990 0.2700 0.2700 0.0000 0.0000
NY 08/2006 0.3615 0.3615 0.0462 0.0000
OH 07/2005 0.2800 0.2800 0.0000 0.0000
OK 01/1990 0.1300 0.1300 0.0000 0.0000
ON 01/2007 0.4678 0.4678 0.0000 0.0000
OR 01/2004 0.0000 0.0000 0.1316 0.0000
PA 01/2006 0.3810 0.3810 0.0000 0.0000
PE 01/2007 0.6804 0.6804 0.0000 0.0000
PQ 01/2007 0.5299 0.5299 0.0000 0.0000
PR 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
QA 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
QC 01/2007 0.5299 0.5299 0.0000 0.0000
RI 09/2002 0.3000 0.3000 0.0000 0.0000
SC 11/2003 0.1600 0.1600 0.0000 0.0000
SD 04/1999 0.2200 0.2200 0.0000 0.0000
SI 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
SK 01/2007 0.4907 0.4907 0.0000 0.0000
TL 01/1990 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
TN 10/2006 0.1700 0.1700 0.0000 0.0076
TX 01/1990 0.2000 0.2000 0.0000 0.0000
UT 01/1990 0.2450 0.2450 0.0000 0.0000
VA 01/1990 0.1950 0.1600 0.0000 0.0000
VT 07/2000 0.2600 0.2600 0.0000 0.0000
WA 07/2006 0.3400 0.3400 0.0000 0.0000
WI 04/2005 0.3290 0.3290 0.0000 0.0000
WV 01/2007 0.3150 0.3150 0.0000 0.0000
WY 08/2001 0.1400 0.1400 0.0000 0.0000
YT 03/2004 0.2725 0.2725 0.0000 0.0000





hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
Bahh I found a Yellow tank!!! LOL Here we go!!!

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/fuel/buggyfuel1.htm



Where can I find a used semi tank to mount on the hoser hauler, I keep seeing huge differences in fuel prices while on the road.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Yea but the yellow would look so cool!!!
Why the center fill? I would get the smaller of the tanks to keep it within the framework... Why would you need to rejet???


King Kx wrote:
I put a gravity feed on brooks 350. Ran the hose from the tank to the carb and just rejetted. We did not change the needle and seat like some people say. Never had a problem with the gravity feed flooding the carb or Engine, both running or sitting overnight with the fuel petcok left on. Get the center fill tank and get it in aluminum. Brooks has dented his up pretty good during some rollovers and never sprouted any leaks. I'm sure a plastic tank would have broken or split.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 2:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
here are some pictures of radiator...


Turbotexas wrote:
hoser wrote:
Why do you "feel" you need a pump, post some detail pics of your cooling loop from the head to the radiator.

I would fix the intermittent fuel delivery problem ASAP or you will POOFKABBOOM the Engine again!!!!


http://pilotodyssey.com/sparkplug.htm


front of head(car) to top of radiator. pix in camera I feel the hoses and way hot??? and sometimes one is hotter than the other. then vise versa the next time???
Why??? peace of mind!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
here are some plug chops from today... I like them, little on the rich side I think??? This is where I need to improve my skills, thus my confidence in this machine!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
A water temp gauge would be helpful, once you get use to your Engine you will feel when it is over heating, first to go is the throttle response it will not be as good or crisp as it usually is when the Engine is just past the cold warm up, you will also notice a slight loss of power.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
and the plugs???


hoser wrote:
A water temp gauge would be helpful, once you get use to your Engine you will feel when it is over heating, first to go is the throttle response it will not be as good or crisp as it usually is when the Engine is just past the cold warm up, you will also notice a slight loss of power.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
and the plugs???


hoser wrote:
A water temp gauge would be helpful, once you get use to your Engine you will feel when it is over heating, first to go is the throttle response it will not be as good or crisp as it usually is when the Engine is just past the cold warm up, you will also notice a slight loss of power.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
and the plugs???


hoser wrote:
A water temp gauge would be helpful, once you get use to your Engine you will feel when it is over heating, first to go is the throttle response it will not be as good or crisp as it usually is when the Engine is just past the cold warm up, you will also notice a slight loss of power.


I didnt see anything alarming or drastically wrong with your plug pics but its hard to judge your jetting based on the pictures because their are so many variables starting with each camera takes a picture differently so the color could be off, I don't know if you let your Engine set and idle for 1/2 hr at some point in the plugs life or if your jetting is real super rich at one throttle position or another heck I am not sure if you did a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) plug chop or just idled in and then pulled the plug between rides.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
DOH... Details let idle about 5-7 minutes... long enough to get it unloaded off the back of the trailer... then drove it about 5 minutes at mid throttle to warm it up and then went up a hill in the sand to watch my egt. (1050 to 1100) then brought it back to the parking lot to get a wide open throttle run, killed the Engine then coasted up to the truck, where the air hose is to clean out the plug hole!!!

hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
and the plugs???


hoser wrote:
A water temp gauge would be helpful, once you get use to your Engine you will feel when it is over heating, first to go is the throttle response it will not be as good or crisp as it usually is when the Engine is just past the cold warm up, you will also notice a slight loss of power.


I didnt see anything alarming or drastically wrong with your plug pics but its hard to judge your jetting based on the pictures because their are so many variables starting with each camera takes a picture differently so the color could be off, I don't know if you let your Engine set and idle for 1/2 hr at some point in the plugs life or if your jetting is real super rich at one throttle position or another heck I am not sure if you did a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) plug chop or just idled in and then pulled the plug between rides.


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