Anyone got the top secret trick to removing a HRD power bloc????

My starter is acting funny so I thought I would pull it to just have a little look see inside, but I cant get the clutch off.

I have a HRD powerbloc that takes the special puller, the puller threads in nice, bottoms out the way it should but just wont pop the clutch off. I must have 150-170 pounds of torque on it.

Any suggestions????

On to the starter, it engages and turns the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for a second or two then disengages and just free spins (starter turns, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) doesnt). I am sure the problem is with the drive or the starter is not spinning fast enough to shoot the drive out to the gear but cant get in there to see whats up.

Yeah this works on any sled type clutch and is a idea that Litespeed found on one of the sled sites I have tried it and it works perfect!

First take your grease gun and pump the hole full of grease, I stick my hose in where the puller (pusher bolt actually) goes and start pumping as I slowly pull out the hose filling the cavity, then take Teflon thread tape and put it on the threads of the puller, do what ever you have to do to fill it up with grease you want to build pressure as you tighten the bolt, if you have some air trapped inside you might have to tighten the bolt to compress the grease then remove it and fill again, whilst threading it in you should feel the resistance of compressing the grease BEFORE the bolt starts pushing on the end of the crank, then tighten it up as you normally would to remove a clutch the hydraulic pressure you build will help pop it off.

A impact gun works best on stubborn to remove clutches.

You might have to tap the head of the bolt if it wont pop after you got it tight.

If you have a 1 piece puller and it bends on the end you loose alot of pushing forces cut off the bent part and find a punch that is the right length and diameter to use as a push pin.

I think I have given you all the tips I can think of here other than soaking it with PB Blaster if you can see it is all rusted up for a week before you try to pull.

Let us know how you make out and add any tips you think would make it work better...

My starter was acting the same way... I had been away from the house for 3 weeks. I plugged the battery charger up and the next day no more starter whining!!! That's easier thn fighting a clutch!!!

thanks for the tip, I'll try the grease trick and let you know how it works out.

The puller shaft is bending (or bowing) I can see thread marks on the end where it goes into the crank. It must be bowing under pressure and pushing up against the threads inside the crank.

I thought about putting the punch in first but didnt know how deep the hole in the end of the crank was. I need to make sure whatever I put in there sticks out so once the clutch is off so I can get it out.

Do you remember how deep the hole in the crank is? 1-2 inches????

When you say to cut the end of the pusher shaft off, how much should I cut? It is a 1 piece puller, just a bolt with the threads milled off near the end opposite the head.

It doesnt look rusted at all, I can see a bit of the crank and there is no rust, I guess I'll find out when it does come off.

When you reinstall the clutch do you put anything on the crank shaft? Anti-seize, grease or just leave it dry?

Hoser..did you get those regulators I sent up to you... any of them going to work for your application?

Ok I should have done this years ago since its is another thing not "info found in the service manual" I took some pics and measurments of my PB clutch pullers.

I measured the crank out of my wifes Pilot that needs a rod.

IMO This would be the maxinum depth since the measuring device I am using is so narrow it will be in the middle of the taper where they stopped drilling, who knows if ALL Pilot cranks were drilled the same depth use the measurments as ball park general info.

Here are the pullers, arrows point to left over thread tape from last use, I just give them a quick wipe when I get done using them letting the grease protect the threads between use, before use the threads are cleaned the tape removed then grease applied to the threads so they cant gall and no dirt is between the threads.

Numbers you see are end to end measurments ...

The top right bolt you see is whats left of the POS SOFT over priced junk puller I bought from HRD racing that bent under the slightest pressure.

The bottom left is a shortned punch, it wont don't and hasent bent!

You want the OD to be close to the ID of the hole it is going through so it CANT c ock in the hole you want it to push straight.

Forgot, yes I got the regulators you sent, THANKS, I have not done anyhting with them yet I am going to send one to our resident electronics yoda MassOdy to see if he can figure out what wires go where, you know the year and make they were design for I guess I could look for a wiring diagram?

I'll shoot you a picture of the puller I got from HRD, its a little different...but in my opinion it is way too soft also.

I'll also include the picture of the clutch "holder" I think I paid $30 dollars for in my stupid years... aluminum bar stock about 4 inches long with two grooves cut into it.

On the regulators, I forget what I sent, send me a part number or picture and I'll let you know what the hooks are. I think I sent Harley regulators but don't recall for sure.

great topic!
Been here a month or so ago. I didn't use the grease. But, I located the pusher bolt locally and used a Punch from a sears kit I had.

My clutch went poofkaboom on a PA ride.

My clutch appeared to be metric thread. I initially got an english thread and it bound upon threading in. So I went to the next size metric and it worked nicely. Hoser did you look at those threads by chance?

On the regulators: this is cool. Let me know and I can look into them with you guys.

I filled the hole with grease, added the teflon tape to the bolt and hit it with the impact gun once and the clutch popped right off. The bolt never even bottomed out against the clutch. Hoser, Thanks for the tip it worked perfectly!!!

Here is a picture of the puller, the end is now "S" shaped. It was straight before I started. You can see it bowed so much under pressure it was actually hitting the threads inside the crank as I tightened it up.

The second picture is the fancy clutch holder I got from HRD, simple effective design....but I think it was like $30.00...live and learn I guess


Now on to the starter....

You check the threads in the crank with a tap?

You want me to send you one of my holding tools, the one you have requires two people to use I still cant believe they sold them things I would like to meet the moron that designed it I bet he is a piece of work lmao

Here is the regulator you sent.

I havent cheecked the threads yet, but will before the I start the reassemble. If they are hurt I will be very suprised, that bolt is sooo soft.

That regulator is for Harley Sportster, (84 to 93 depending on the wire lenghts). Hook ups are: Case = Battery Neg , Single lead = Battery positive, leads with the connector are your two AC (stator) connections. It's good for about 32 amp. It is a typical regulator / rectifier for any 2 phase permanent magnet type charging system.

Yeah the clutch holder is a joke, but it does work. What I would really like to see is your design for a holder to stop the clutch from turning if you are tying to install or remove without air tools.

that's right here viewtopic.php?t=2238

Gotcha on the wiring sounds simple enough I will give them a try, currently I am using one off a 1978 Articat 340 JAG snowmobile.

Thanks again.