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 Post subject: Rod clearances
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
I have a question -when you check the rod clearances-do you measure between the spacers/washer on the rod side or between the cases/spacers?
Heres picture of the rod for your pleasure


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 Post subject: Re: Rod clearances
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger wrote:
I have a question -when you check the rod clearances-do you measure between the spacers/washer on the rod side or between the cases/spacers?
Heres picture of the rod for your pleasure


It don't matter the space between all cant change.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:40 am
Posts: 346
Location: Australia
How do you measure wear on the big end?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 6:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
lc4 wrote:
How do you measure wear on the big end?


Just like the service manual shows you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Thank you-wanted to make sure-
:-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:40 am
Posts: 346
Location: Australia
hoser wrote:
lc4 wrote:
How do you measure wear on the big end?


Just like the service manual shows you.


Sorry I meant how do you check for actual bearing wear? Every manual will give you small end measurements and big end freeplay but not a measurement or method of actually checking bearing wear tolerances. The same question would apply to main crank bearings, apart from "feel" what else is there?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3636
Location: Wichita ks
Yep it's a feel thing as well as a mearusure up thing. Zero verticall play and smooth ball and pin roll. If you had a crank or major failure replace them is cheap insurance. If the bore is on its last bore and new cylinder or sleave replace. If your building power you want it tight. Before removing the crank lift upand down on rod to feel for play. Stabalize side play best you can. I check it at TDC (Top Dead Center) and 180. After crank is removed roll the mains with finger feeling for roughness. roughness not good spinning free not good need some resisteance but smooth. Clean up mains spray with light oil and retest still rough trash or use as set up bearing, be sure to mark if set up bearing . If a new cranks going in replace them or you risk running the new crank and damaging the Engine. If the big in bad youll feel it or the side clearenc will be off. The damage as it goes away will lock it up and take out shims its a heat friction thing. Check shims over real close on inspection. If you had dings on the top of the piston and head and the rings are intact most like big end damage. You should also check the ID and OD of the main bearing to see if there in spec as well as the ID of the case and OD of the crank. If they been spinning on the crank or in the case new parts are in order. You should also check run out of the crank and to make sure its true and whith in spec as well as the radial end clearence of the big end beareng for wear. That goes for new old or rebuilt. If the bearing just slide on the crank and slip in the case. Go UMMMM. and measure. If the case splits with out a spliter go UMMMM.


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