Bought this FL400 yesterday. Owner didn't know much of anything about it. Really not a fan of the bedliner plastics.

He listed it as a "450 Odisey" or something like that.

It does run when fed gas but it needs a decent tune up at the least plus,

Throttle cables
Air box


Can anyone tell me what's going on with the radiator setup? I have seen many FL400's like this but am not sure if this is factory or not? I am used to seeing the radiator lower to the Engine with a shroud around it.


Also in search for a stock air box.


Also, is this the stock carb?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions, just got it home last night and have been super busy with work.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ff3MfwroAwfp8WLS6

How do you view the pics. I click on it and it goes to google and that’s all. Radiator relocate kits moved them up higher. I like it as it was easier to service the carb.
I figured it out. Not the stock carb, most likely 39mm keihin. Definitely need an air box. Atv racing made/makes a radiator relocate kit this may be one.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ff3MfwroAwfp8WLS6

Here is album. Sorry!

So I looked further into the machine just now.

It had CW Racing inscribed in both cyl and head.

I talked with CW and he believes this may be a 440 bore with a port job and possibly more.


It also has a quick shift clutch and some crazy pipe.

More to come during my weekend. If anyone can shed some knowledge on this machine id love to hear it

I like it. Have heard good things about cw racing engines. Let us know how it runs.

Also looks like it has the fox shocks and brackets on it like I'm making. Thinking of making 10 sets. Can you see a part number on shocks?

His pilot is the one in the google link, no fox shocks

My mistake. Still want to know how it runs been thinking about using one of cw 83 mm pistons on one of my jugs that's past 82mm.

That looks like a PJ34 carb. On the side of the carb just below the choke, are there engraved words, CHOKE and IDLE? If so, its a PJ which stands for PIECE of JUNK.

The PJ carbs start like poo, run like poo at 1/4 throttle, and were far superseded by the Mikuni TM and the Keihin PWK.

If you have any cold starting, hot starting, tuning, or running problems what-so-ever, consider dumping this carb straight off for a Keihin PWK39.

Next, get RID of the yellow fuel filter just before the carb. The type and location of it will limit fuel flow to the carb. You want a nice high-flow filter closer to the tank and before the fuel pump.

It does have idle and choke engraved.

Not worth running this carb?


Anyone know anything about that exhaust pipe?

I bet maybe people at cw racing could identify. Have you ran compression check?

I've known Chris CW for years. Amazing guy. He doesn't know the origin of the pipe.

I haven't even touched the machine yet. Been too tired

Quick update

Replaced all the rubbers, fuel, water, etc

Cleaned out fuel tank and carb

Fired her up and rusty water came out of the exhaust. I fear since the PO had a pretty dummy design for the air intake, and that he left it in the rain and naturally water drained into the bottom end.
The K&N filter that was on there was the perfect angle to get saturated with water and drain through the carb into the bottom end.

The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ran fine but it sounded like dry bearings to me. Not sure what a Pilot normally sounds like though.


Any thoughts ?

Recommended carbs? Can conform this PJ34 is indeed a piece of junk.

If I'm in for a bottom end rebuild I'm gonna be one sad puppy.

Post a pic of it running.

Best way to see if the bottom is rusty is to remove the carb and reed block. Likely you’ll need new gaskets so be prepared. The crank can still be rebuilt. The cost for a full-on top to bottom refresh is about $1200 if you can do it yourself.

Who is rebuilding cranks now? I doubt if speedchaser is doing it anymore

I just had Ken O'Connor Racing rebuild a 91 YZ250 crank for me. He does good work. I think it was fully that had him do a race 350 cylinder re-sleeve. Ken would probably do the pilot crank rebuild.

Quick update.


I got it running pretty clean, dumped some 2 stroke oil into the reeds and let it do a full heat cycle at idle. It sounds pretty clean now, and no water coming out.


The child in me couldn't help but run it up the road and back. It's extremely fast. Very lean though, air leak somewhere as it revs for a solid 2-3 seconds after letting off the throttle.


I think I will go ahead with the Engine as is for now and hope for the best.


Need a recommendation for a carb. I don't know anything about jetting so if someone can give me a good carb recommendation and jetting for a 400 at 4000ft elevation.

OH MY
In my opinion I would be pulling this Engine apart and starting fresh.
Why do you want to explode a nice Engine ??
CO

Ultimately I know you're right. It may need to be put away for a while while my life gets in full swing....moving, getting married, etc. Not a good time financially to rebuild a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) OR have it blow up from lack of care.

Not to be a pain but I have to agree with CO on this. After working in a speed shop in years past and seeing what people do and don’t do.....it would be better safe than sorry. I’d pull the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and have it checked out/gone thru.

I totally get the life thing and money and time etc....but I would rather wait till I had some extra cash to have it checked out vs. blowing the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) up and doing some damage that is not repairable and you end up having to find/buy another Engine and still put money into having it rebuilt etc....

I get the itch on wanting to drive it as well!

SB4x4

As requested, short little video of it running. I'm sure its impossible to hear anything, but just incase.


This will be my last time running it till I can tear into it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JPRW7WZjpAv4gptA7

all you need is a base gasket and toy can pull the cylinder off and get a good look at the condition of the bottom end, you can pull the cylinder off without removing the head, I think you can do this in the pilot, remove the seat for easy access.
also if you suspect a leak, do a leakdown test, do that even if you don't suspect a leak. it's possible to change seals without pulling the crank.
the moral of the story is, if the Engine is in working condition now the rebuild should not have any surprises, if you wait until it blows, then it's a crap shoot and may cost a new Engine.

You local or did you ship it to them? His prices are very reasonable
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/

And to Garamie,I'm like you,I would be so tempted to say screw it and ride it like it is,but if that bottom end got water in it then yeah you need to wait till you can check it out