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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:57 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Belgium
Hi

Guys I live in Belgium and I'm 28. I just bought a fl350 that has been standing still for a few years. When the Engine is running and the FL is stationary, the drive belt touches the rear axle. Is that normal?

Also when I go into reverse, the gearbox makes a weird noise. Sounds like 2 metal parts scraping againt each other. Any ideas what that could be? I changed the gearbox oil.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
I think the belt rubbing the axle thing is normal will let the FL350 gurus chime in on this one.

When you drained the oil in the trans was their any metal or did the oil have a metallic hue to it?

Welcome to the site please post pics of your machine and riding areas. :-)

::-:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Stella52 wrote:
Hi

Guys I live in Belgium and I'm 28. I just bought a fl350 that has been standing still for a few years. When the Engine is running and the FL is stationary, the drive belt touches the rear axle. Is that normal?

Also when I go into reverse, the gearbox makes a weird noise. Sounds like 2 metal parts scraping againt each other. Any ideas what that could be? I changed the gearbox oil.

Thanks!

Drive belt touching - This is completely normal and occurs on all machines! no worries :)

Shift buzz - This is normal also. Many of us have done the "change switch mod" to the switch located on the back of the transmission. This switch exists to prevent the odyssey from being started in gear for obvious safety reasons. The mod consists of cutting the two wires from the switch, and grounding them both to the frame. This will allow you to start it in the gear you prefer. Be reminded stuck throttles can cause problems with this. If you decide to not perform the switch bypass mod, make sure to put it into gear quickly and at low RPM


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 4:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:57 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Belgium
Thanks for the info, that reasuring!

I have another problem, I tried to change the rear brake pads, but I can't get the new pads in. There is not enough room. When I try to push the brake cylinder back, It won't move.

Is it necessary to drain the brake fluid first?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Stella52 wrote:
Thanks for the info, that reasuring!

I have another problem, I tried to change the rear brake pads, but I can't get the new pads in. There is not enough room. When I try to push the brake cylinder back, I won't move.

Is it necessary to drain the brake fluid first?


What did the oil look like you drained from the trans?

You need to read the manual on the brake thing, you probably need to remove the adjuster for the parking brake before you can push the piston back far enough to accept the new thicker pads, then once installed and working re-adjust the parking brake assembly.

Please download and read the manual before wrenching. :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:22 pm
Posts: 2641
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
The rubbing and grinding is fairly normal. Just be careful. People say to drop it from neutral to drive or reverse as fast as you can, don't ease it in. Some also remove the neutral safety start function so you can start it in gear, just be really careful! If you start it in gear and try to just revv it up, the buggy will move on you!

Welcome to the board!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 2:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
As far as the grinding when it goes into gear this is normal however, make sure your idle is as low as you can get it without out the Ody stalling and it will grind less or not at all.

To get the new pads in make sure that the parking brake adjustment bolt is completely backed out or remove it completely.

Note: it shouldn't take a lot of force to push the caliper back into the caliper body. If it does then you probably have some corrosion or dirt built up around the outside of the caliper piston. Make sure the outside of the piston is clean! If you try to force a dirt encrusted and corroded piston back into the caliper body, it may damage the caliper seals. Once it is clean and you still have trouble pushing the piston back into the caliper, you can take a C clamp and GENTLY press the caliper piston all of the way into the caliper body. This will give you enough room to install the new pads.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:57 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Belgium
OK, thanks for the info guys, I will try to do that, but I fear the brake piston maybe stuck...

I got another quick question. I replaced the stock filter with a unifilter. Do I need to rejet?
Do I have to squeeze the metal frame into the unifilter? Because the unfilter allready has some metal inside...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Yes you will need to recheck your jetting.

The UNI has its own cage and support so you won't need to use the factory wire cage.

Rand


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