I got an square wave 175

If i ever sell it ill buy an dynasty 200 so I can have pulsed tig

BS

I have pulse on my 275 but I don't use it, just the foot control and pulse with that. I even paid extra for the pulse thinking I'd use it.

I would still have my 175 if I didn't make such big gas tanks - with HE25 gas you can weld a pretty big aluminum project just not 20lbs of aluminum, too big of a heat sink for 175. The two biggest advantages to the 275 is the raw power, but more importantly water cooled tip.

That Dynasty 200 would be nice just not sure if it is worth the $ difference than the 175 you now have.

Ak

Wiring the Cat.

Soldering, in the past I have been asked about the electrical and how dificult is it, this is how I splice.
When cutting a wiring harness apart I number the wire cut, write down color and where it is from and going to. This build I only had 11 wires cut before going to splicing, but on the Nytro Pilot build I had 25 cut just to lay out the harness.

Ak

Your a Madman !

I have a Dynasty 200 Dx, I weld for a living, save your money and buy a everlast 200 Dx or higher, best money u can spend and best money you can save. i have over 10 different tig machines and I have found the everlast machine to be a great machine. I certainly am not a sales man for them, but spending a little over a grand is a whole lot better than 5ish for the dynasty for garage and hobby use or even if you weld all day. Has the pulse, comes with everything you will need and they are the same size. I weld all kinds of off road race stuff with it. Good luck

Looking good Wayne. I recently bought the Everlast 250 EX along with the W300 water cooler. Now I just need to learn how to TIG lol. Been Miggen a long time however no experience with the tig process.

Best advice I can give on tig welding is forget everything you know about mig welding and if you have the tanks for gas welding it is a great teaching tool for tig welding if you get ocy welding under control tig welding becomes so easy. practice practice practice and clean clean clean for best results. good luck and enjoy

Got the axles in from Turner Cycles and just to make sure they work I decited to start the rear suspension. I like the OEM joints so I decited to use them instead of heim joints, my Nytro heims are very noisy.

Ak

continued..... now back to the Gas tank, electrical, plumbing ect, ect, ect. This weekend is dedicated to getting the beast fired up so I can spin the clutches and make sure the belt is happy where the Engine sits.

Ak

Coming along nicely Wayne. I spotted this little statement in your thread:

"Yea that probably, but this one was not suposed to be modified.....or well that's what I told my wife."
Gotta love it! Same line of BULL I told my wife when I bought the Commander lol!
Although I have no Intension of changing out the drive line.

I just love to watch these builds...wish I had those fab skills! Great work Wayne.

No intension of changing the drive line? Yea keep telling yourself that, I'm sure that crossed your mind on your Pilot.

Thanks Nuke Em.

I have been grappling with N/A or going Turbo, I have a couple friends that are pushing form day one to turbo this thing - infact they want the Nyto Pilot turboed but it is already enough. I have always hated how the airbox for the Nytro came out and with the Apex it would have been much worse. It is a pain to get the box on and off and with all the plastics of the Wildcat it would have been much worse not to mention 4 cylinders instead of 3. With forced induction it should be simple. Not going to head shim the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for lower compression so I'll be able to run 7-8 lbs of boost but I'll run it at 6 for starters - some 200 HP range. Anyhoo here are some pics.

Ha! Ha! You very funny guy Wayne! I still have no intensions of changing the drive line lol. Now, I am pondering changing out the Commander to a Maverick! That is going to be one bad ass Cat. Keep up the good work.

Great Wildcat mods. Cant wait to see it in action. Hey what is the brand of your water proof heat shrink and low temp solder connectors and where can I get them? Im guessing they come in different gauges. Much thanks

Stix.

Purchased them from a company here in Alaska but they quit stocking them, so I purchased mine from E-bay. Yes they are wire diameter specific, I purchased the red, blue and yellow that way it ranges from 20ga. wire to 10ga. wire.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-GA-Solder ... 257fb7d8bc" .".." ."..

This is not the specific merchant I got mine from but same item, Autosavings must have quit selling them could not find them.

Ak

i might pick up some of those solder things, seems better and easier

My suggestions on the turbo set up -
do not use the push lock hose for the oil feed. It tends to break down inside. In time, the hose will no longer stay tight to the barbed fitting and WILL blow off. By the time you realize it, it will be to late. Buy a quality aeroquip or eaton braided hose that is rated for 400 degrees.
Your turbo is not high enough to allow for adequate drainage of the oil. We like to see the center of the turbo close to the height of the valve cover. The farther the turbo from the Engine, the higher the turbo as the drain tube ultimately needs as much vertical rise as possible. Also, never plumb the drain fitting into sumped oil - meaning, if you pull the fitting out of the pan, Engine oil should not gush out. Any restriction on the oil drain will result in shaft seal failure. The drain oil can not push the oil in the sump out of its way to allow entry to the sump. If it is pushing the oil into the pan, it is because the oil has backed up the drain tube and the pressurized oil is now forcing the oil through the drain tube. While you will most likely find guys that say they have no issues with it in the sump - there are no oems that plumb to the sump or, they just have not put the hours on there set up to have issues arise.
It looks like the turbo is not mounted to the Engine but is mounted to the chassis. Nothing wrong with that, but you will need a flex coupler between the header pipe and turbo inlet. It will crack in a short amount of time.

King Kx,

Thanks for the reply, you make some great points and I hope that I and my turbo guys have it covered.

1. The blue hose you see is for the coolant, I do have -2 steel braded brake line for the oil feed. I still need to make the return line.
2. Yes on the height of the turbo. I did not make the header for a turbo, I originally make it to cross over to the left then 180 degree turn and then a muffler crossing below the header. In hind sight I should have made the header go low and then up to the turbo mounted in the center. This winter I may change to this design if I can't get this to work to my satisfaction.
3. I will hard line the return and keep as smooth as possible, it will be 1/2" stainless. Because this Engine is a dry sump this should work, I could not return in the sight plug on the mag side as the suspension is very close. The return fitting needed to be shaved because of the scavenge pump pick up, this should keep oil from building up in front and causing a back up. If this does not work then I will reroute the oil tank like the Nytro sled engines and then I'll have no problems. On the Apex they vent the oil tank back into the case where on the Nytro sleds it vents to the air box, this creates lots of crank case vacuum and the oil return can go into the top of the valve cover.
4. I'm using the OEM flex joints between the Engine and the header, same as the sled.

If you see anything turbo related or not I would be interested.

Ak

continuing on.

Ak

Getting Close! Took it out last Saturday for a quick run to check boost levels ect. It ran really good for such a large build but I do have a laundry list of things to change already. I'll be taking it out this weekend and will get pics and video. It will still be far from done as I have not done anything with the 4x4 unit, trunk, or clutch cover/intake, that will all come later right now I'm concentrating on getting the clutching worked out and cool before I enclose.

Ak

Looking good!
seems like the intercooler being mounted so close to the rad could act more of a preheater? for heat shielding, if you can get some heavy stainless foil and sandwich some kaowool between, all you would need is about 1/4" or so, though more is better.
If you look into this and can't get a small quantity of the kaowool, for the cost of shipping I could send you some, you're on your own for the foil.

Build is looking good cant wait to see it running.

Kuma why you have access to kaowool?

I work in a test lab, we do a lot of FAA fire testing and the stuff works great for protecting stuff you need to insulate. Ceramic, not effected by 2000 degree flame like fiberglass.
The thermal blanket suggestion is what is used on many components to protect from flame, I think the actual stuffing they use in a product called Min-K or something, made by the same company but as I understand it is ceramic micro beads rather than ceramic fiber. the stuff we have here is 1.5" thick but can easily be split and separated.

Wife works at a brick plant they use it on and around their kilns so I have access to it, also seen it used in the nuke plants on some systems piping, insulators claim its as bad if not worse than asbestos the health studies has just not caught up with it yet so limit your exposure, its good high temp stuff for sure have used it a bunch in the brick plant packing expansion joints on ventilation systems during maintenance we wear a quality respirator when working with it.