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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Akpilot wrote:
BS

Started out with a Lincoln 175 Pro but the Fl800 tank was too big, could not get enough heat on it so I purchased a Lincoln 275.

Ak

I got an square wave 175

If i ever sell it ill buy an dynasty 200 so I can have pulsed tig


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
BS

I have pulse on my 275 but I don't use it, just the foot control and pulse with that. I even paid extra for the pulse thinking I'd use it. :shock:

I would still have my 175 if I didn't make such big gas tanks - with HE25 gas you can weld a pretty big aluminum project just not 20lbs of aluminum, too big of a heat sink for 175. The two biggest advantages to the 275 is the raw power, but more importantly water cooled tip.

That Dynasty 200 would be nice just not sure if it is worth the $ difference than the 175 you now have.

Ak


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Wiring the Cat.


Attachments:
File comment: Basic wire layout. I have the fuse box in front where the battery access/arm rest for easy access. I know it looks like a mess but it was way easier than the Nytro Pilot just the way the sled was layed out.
001.JPG
001.JPG [ 92.42 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
File comment: Relays on the drivers side with rectifier on passengers side.
002.JPG
002.JPG [ 100.33 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
File comment: Wired in a battery kill switch
014.JPG
014.JPG [ 51.61 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
File comment: Mount for gauge, all the grind marks on it because I changed my mine multiple times.
015.JPG
015.JPG [ 70.41 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
File comment: Back side of Apex gauge installed
018.JPG
018.JPG [ 70.86 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
File comment: Gauge installed
020.JPG
020.JPG [ 57.26 KiB | Viewed 2096 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Soldering, in the past I have been asked about the electrical and how dificult is it, this is how I splice.
When cutting a wiring harness apart I number the wire cut, write down color and where it is from and going to. This build I only had 11 wires cut before going to splicing, but on the Nytro Pilot build I had 25 cut just to lay out the harness.

Ak


Attachments:
File comment: This is what I use to splice wire, water proof heat shrink and low temp solder all in one.
MK001.JPG
MK001.JPG [ 69.87 KiB | Viewed 2094 times ]
File comment: slide heat shrink on wire
MK003.JPG
MK003.JPG [ 46.03 KiB | Viewed 2094 times ]
File comment: With 3/4" stripped on each wire, over lap them twisting one counter clockwise and the other clockwise.
MK005.JPG
MK005.JPG [ 76.75 KiB | Viewed 2094 times ]
File comment: Apply heat, I find the solder needs the highest heat setting. You will be able to see the solder flowing, move gun around and done.
MK006.JPG
MK006.JPG [ 73.87 KiB | Viewed 2094 times ]
File comment: Splice area is not much larger than the untouched wires, I like to get a large wire with all the little wires inside makes for a clean splice. This splice goes from the front of tank to gauge and lights. I used 10 conductor 18 gauge for this splice.
MK008.JPG
MK008.JPG [ 86.18 KiB | Viewed 2094 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Your a Madman ! :-)


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:56 pm
Posts: 550
I have a Dynasty 200 Dx, I weld for a living, save your money and buy a everlast 200 Dx or higher, best money u can spend and best money you can save. i have over 10 different tig machines and I have found the everlast machine to be a great machine. I certainly am not a sales man for them, but spending a little over a grand is a whole lot better than 5ish for the dynasty for garage and hobby use or even if you weld all day. Has the pulse, comes with everything you will need and they are the same size. I weld all kinds of off road race stuff with it. Good luck


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:17 am
Posts: 192
Looking good Wayne. I recently bought the Everlast 250 EX along with the W300 water cooler. Now I just need to learn how to TIG lol. Been Miggen a long time however no experience with the tig process.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:56 pm
Posts: 550
Best advice I can give on tig welding is forget everything you know about mig welding and if you have the tanks for gas welding it is a great teaching tool for tig welding if you get ocy welding under control tig welding becomes so easy. practice practice practice and clean clean clean for best results. good luck and enjoy


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Got the axles in from Turner Cycles and just to make sure they work I decited to start the rear suspension. I like the OEM joints so I decited to use them instead of heim joints, my Nytro heims are very noisy.

Ak


Attachments:
007.JPG
007.JPG [ 43.22 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
File comment: Cut OEM radius rods, welded slip tubing and made rods 1 inch longer than stock
001.JPG
001.JPG [ 72.12 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
003.JPG
003.JPG [ 80.8 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
002.JPG
002.JPG [ 77.11 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
File comment: made jig for new longer arms, made the lower arms high clearance by adding 30 degree bends. Bottom arms are double wall .058, 4130.
009.JPG
009.JPG [ 38.13 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
continued..... now back to the Gas tank, electrical, plumbing ect, ect, ect. This weekend is dedicated to getting the beast fired up so I can spin the clutches and make sure the belt is happy where the Engine sits.

Ak


Attachments:
File comment: Tying in the 5th arm to the 4th arm.
A003.JPG
A003.JPG [ 68.3 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
A004.JPG
A004.JPG [ 68.58 KiB | Viewed 1987 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:17 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:17 am
Posts: 192
Coming along nicely Wayne. I spotted this little statement in your thread:

"Yea that probably, but this one was not suposed to be modified.....or well that's what I told my wife."
Gotta love it! Same line of BULL I told my wife when I bought the Commander lol!
Although I have no Intension of changing out the drive line.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
I just love to watch these builds...wish I had those fab skills! Great work Wayne.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Odyknuck wrote:
Coming along nicely Wayne. I spotted this little statement in your thread:

"Yea that probably, but this one was not suposed to be modified.....or well that's what I told my wife."
Gotta love it! Same line of BULL I told my wife when I bought the Commander lol!
Although I have no Intension of changing out the drive line.


No intension of changing the drive line? Yea keep telling yourself that, I'm sure that crossed your mind on your Pilot. :-)

Thanks Nuke Em.

I have been grappling with N/A or going Turbo, I have a couple friends that are pushing form day one to turbo this thing - infact they want the Nyto Pilot turboed but it is already enough. I have always hated how the airbox for the Nytro came out and with the Apex it would have been much worse. It is a pain to get the box on and off and with all the plastics of the Wildcat it would have been much worse not to mention 4 cylinders instead of 3. With forced induction it should be simple. Not going to head shim the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for lower compression so I'll be able to run 7-8 lbs of boost but I'll run it at 6 for starters - some 200 HP range. Anyhoo here are some pics.


Attachments:
File comment: Turbo flange to collector.
008.JPG
008.JPG [ 61.79 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
File comment: Turbo oil return line to bottom pan
019.JPG
019.JPG [ 60.37 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
File comment: Charge tube
A001.JPG
A001.JPG [ 72.25 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
File comment: Turbo location. Turbo is mounted with OEM Pilot Engine mounts.
C019.JPG
C019.JPG [ 80.94 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
File comment: Trubo flange to collector
C033.JPG
C033.JPG [ 52.54 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
File comment: Side view with charge tube going just under the radiator
C020.JPG
C020.JPG [ 65.76 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:17 am
Posts: 192
Ha! Ha! You very funny guy Wayne! I still have no intensions of changing the drive line lol. Now, I am pondering changing out the Commander to a Maverick! That is going to be one bad ass Cat. Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Akpilot wrote:
Soldering, in the past I have been asked about the electrical and how dificult is it, this is how I splice.
When cutting a wiring harness apart I number the wire cut, write down color and where it is from and going to. This build I only had 11 wires cut before going to splicing, but on the Nytro Pilot build I had 25 cut just to lay out the harness.

Ak



Great Wildcat mods. Cant wait to see it in action. Hey what is the brand of your water proof heat shrink and low temp solder connectors and where can I get them? Im guessing they come in different gauges. Much thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Stix.

Purchased them from a company here in Alaska but they quit stocking them, so I purchased mine from E-bay. Yes they are wire diameter specific, I purchased the red, blue and yellow that way it ranges from 20ga. wire to 10ga. wire.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-GA-Solder ... 257fb7d8bc" .".." ."..

This is not the specific merchant I got mine from but same item, Autosavings must have quit selling them could not find them.

Ak


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
i might pick up some of those solder things, seems better and easier


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: CT
My suggestions on the turbo set up -
do not use the push lock hose for the oil feed. It tends to break down inside. In time, the hose will no longer stay tight to the barbed fitting and WILL blow off. By the time you realize it, it will be to late. Buy a quality aeroquip or eaton braided hose that is rated for 400 degrees.
Your turbo is not high enough to allow for adequate drainage of the oil. We like to see the center of the turbo close to the height of the valve cover. The farther the turbo from the Engine, the higher the turbo as the drain tube ultimately needs as much vertical rise as possible. Also, never plumb the drain fitting into sumped oil - meaning, if you pull the fitting out of the pan, Engine oil should not gush out. Any restriction on the oil drain will result in shaft seal failure. The drain oil can not push the oil in the sump out of its way to allow entry to the sump. If it is pushing the oil into the pan, it is because the oil has backed up the drain tube and the pressurized oil is now forcing the oil through the drain tube. While you will most likely find guys that say they have no issues with it in the sump - there are no oems that plumb to the sump or, they just have not put the hours on there set up to have issues arise.
It looks like the turbo is not mounted to the Engine but is mounted to the chassis. Nothing wrong with that, but you will need a flex coupler between the header pipe and turbo inlet. It will crack in a short amount of time.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
King Kx,

Thanks for the reply, you make some great points and I hope that I and my turbo guys have it covered.

1. The blue hose you see is for the coolant, I do have -2 steel braded brake line for the oil feed. I still need to make the return line.
2. Yes on the height of the turbo. I did not make the header for a turbo, I originally make it to cross over to the left then 180 degree turn and then a muffler crossing below the header. In hind sight I should have made the header go low and then up to the turbo mounted in the center. This winter I may change to this design if I can't get this to work to my satisfaction.
3. I will hard line the return and keep as smooth as possible, it will be 1/2" stainless. Because this Engine is a dry sump this should work, I could not return in the sight plug on the mag side as the suspension is very close. The return fitting needed to be shaved because of the scavenge pump pick up, this should keep oil from building up in front and causing a back up. If this does not work then I will reroute the oil tank like the Nytro sled engines and then I'll have no problems. On the Apex they vent the oil tank back into the case where on the Nytro sleds it vents to the air box, this creates lots of crank case vacuum and the oil return can go into the top of the valve cover.
4. I'm using the OEM flex joints between the Engine and the header, same as the sled.

If you see anything turbo related or not I would be interested.

Ak


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
continuing on.

Ak


Attachments:
File comment: Intercooler installed
D001.JPG
D001.JPG [ 86.73 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Oil feed lines
D009.JPG
D009.JPG [ 71.09 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Turbo install completed
D011.JPG
D011.JPG [ 81.32 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Couldn't come up with a muffler that fit where I needed it, so make your own
E003.JPG
E003.JPG [ 65.95 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Stainless expanded metal rolled, 2 to 3" collector and welded to 90 degree bend
E004.JPG
E004.JPG [ 64.74 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Getting Close! Took it out last Saturday for a quick run to check boost levels ect. It ran really good for such a large build but I do have a laundry list of things to change already. I'll be taking it out this weekend and will get pics and video. It will still be far from done as I have not done anything with the 4x4 unit, trunk, or clutch cover/intake, that will all come later right now I'm concentrating on getting the clutching worked out and cool before I enclose.

Ak


Attachments:
File comment: Wrapped the header, it gets too hot for the trunk. I'll need to build a heat shield between trunk and header as well as transmission and header.
F012.JPG
F012.JPG [ 71.84 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Mounted Power Commander in a Pelican case easily reached from the rear cowl. Wired drivers side fan to come on when ever the Engine is running. Passenger fan is wired through stock Yamaha wiring harness, both through relays.
G001.JPG
G001.JPG [ 104.78 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: Tyler double checking my work
F013.JPG
F013.JPG [ 79.77 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
File comment: sittin' on all fours, been a while!
F015.JPG
F015.JPG [ 84.87 KiB | Viewed 1641 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:19 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
Looking good!
seems like the intercooler being mounted so close to the rad could act more of a preheater? for heat shielding, if you can get some heavy stainless foil and sandwich some kaowool between, all you would need is about 1/4" or so, though more is better.
If you look into this and can't get a small quantity of the kaowool, for the cost of shipping I could send you some, you're on your own for the foil.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Kuma wrote:
Looking good!
seems like the intercooler being mounted so close to the rad could act more of a preheater? for heat shielding, if you can get some heavy stainless foil and sandwich some kaowool between, all you would need is about 1/4" or so, though more is better.
If you look into this and can't get a small quantity of the kaowool, for the cost of shipping I could send you some, you're on your own for the foil.


Build is looking good cant wait to see it running.

Kuma why you have access to kaowool?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
I work in a test lab, we do a lot of FAA fire testing and the stuff works great for protecting stuff you need to insulate. Ceramic, not effected by 2000 degree flame like fiberglass.
The thermal blanket suggestion is what is used on many components to protect from flame, I think the actual stuffing they use in a product called Min-K or something, made by the same company but as I understand it is ceramic micro beads rather than ceramic fiber. the stuff we have here is 1.5" thick but can easily be split and separated.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Kuma wrote:
I work in a test lab, we do a lot of FAA fire testing and the stuff works great for protecting stuff you need to insulate. Ceramic, not effected by 2000 degree flame like fiberglass.
The thermal blanket suggestion is what is used on many components to protect from flame, I think the actual stuffing they use in a product called Min-K or something, made by the same company but as I understand it is ceramic micro beads rather than ceramic fiber. the stuff we have here is 1.5" thick but can easily be split and separated.


Wife works at a brick plant they use it on and around their kilns so I have access to it, also seen it used in the nuke plants on some systems piping, insulators claim its as bad if not worse than asbestos the health studies has just not caught up with it yet so limit your exposure, its good high temp stuff for sure have used it a bunch in the brick plant packing expansion joints on ventilation systems during maintenance we wear a quality respirator when working with it.


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