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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Hoser,
I think I'm pretty much stuck with what I have. I need the thumb throttle throw the same in order to pull the carbs WFO, so no machanical advantage would be gained. I can't use a foot throttle as it's cramped as it is, and I like how it is set up for novice drivers. The only think I can do is eliminate the oil pump and go premix. It does help relieve the throttle pull but does not cure the problem. If I do eliminate the oil pump then I'll have a cable made to go straight to the carbs and not into a junction block then to the carbs, right now it's stock cable to snowmobile junction block to carbs/oil pump. How much does the junction block add I don't know.
I have also toyed with the thought of a hydrolic throttle, much like the hydrolic clutch for dirt bikes. I use to own a KTM SX250 and placed a Maruga unit on it, made a world of difference in the pull. Just another one of my to do list.

Wayne


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:00 pm
Posts: 91
Yes I have that problem with my rotax pilot, Thumb ache, I like pilot controls, no room for a accellerator pedal (I have cutter brakes by my feet) I have thought of using a fly by wire type set up off a car etc so the actuator is doing the work. Or even some sort of stepper motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). A hydrolic line will help but with the extra drag from linkages etc you may not be any better off.
The 2 stroke, 4 stroke debate could go on for ever, four strokes last longer but when they do go bang cost a lot more to fix, I have a 2001 ktm 520 EXC and love it but if it does let go in a big way Its probably not worth fixing. I used to do a lot of motorcross and enduro and had a few cr, kx 500,s and not been around one for a while, until a few weeks ago we all went to a practice track and I got behind my mate on his cr 500, I had forgot how good those 500 two strokes sound and how much dirt they throw up :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:02 pm
Posts: 533
Location: Bellevue WA I OWE Hoser $300.00
Haha I have one of the old cr500's and its amazing on how often i get out to the dunes and people with these new CRF450's tell me it wont even stand a chance.. prove them wrong :-)

How about swapping the thumb throttle to the break lever?

Also, hydraulic isnt a bad idea. I havent done anything like that on one of my machines, but I know my bikes had barely any response lag and it was an easy fluid motion.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:00 pm
Posts: 91
As I am sitting at the computer now there is a a program on discovery science about artificial limbs and the electric motors that make the limbs move are controlled by electrical impulses from the muscles. So its easy, put a sensor on my temple and a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) on the accelerator cable, if I think go faster it will pull the cable , if I think slow down HOPEFULLY it will shut off, If any one would like to test it first and let me know how it works :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:45 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Camino Ca.
Akpilot, I have a question about the oiler on the polaris. I was having issues with too much oil bein injected so I just unhooked the oiler goin to the intake and left the oiler going to the crank bearrings with the linkage set at idle.
Do you think that will be ok? I've been running it for a while with no problems but I just want to make sure.
Thanks Brock


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Buggyfreak34z
You disconected the intake oil tubes? are you premixing? If your premixing you still need to do one of two things. First keep the oil pump connected to the throttle and the low output oil lines so it can oil the main bearings, or drill out the weep holes in the top of the bottom case above the main bearings. These low output oil lines are vary slow, to prime the pump use a drill in reverse rotation and you'll see how slow they are. I hook up the high volume to the low volume just to fill up the oil lines then switch over when I'm priming.

With the oil pump there is a line on the case and a line on the arm these need to be lined up with throttle off, if not adjust. You can adjust it down for less output, I know on my Firecat the pump is not adjusted to the factory settings but off by about 1/8" for less oil but my dealer adjusted it for me.

I would either keep the oiling system or remove it completely. In order to remove it completely you need to remove the jugs and make sure the weep holes above the outer bearings is open, if not drill them. This weep system is not a reliable as the oil system but it has to be there. You have not experience a problem yet but if the weep holes are casted over you WILL have a problem. The outer most bearings are being deprived of oil (double row of bearings), they do get some by the crank pressure but not enough. The Polaris dealers suggest keeping the low output oil lines and premix but this does not elimate the oil pump or the cable to the oil pump.

Wayne


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:17 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:45 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Camino Ca.
thanks Wayne. I do run premix and have the small lines still running to the case with the oiler linkage set at idle. I think I will do away with the oiler system when I do the top end.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
The A-Arm relocation frame worked great. It's sure nice to get that out of the Engine bay!
Right now the diagonal brace and the frame stretching will just well tacked for now as I fit the Engine and trans into the frame.
Progress will slow down a bit as I need to make 10 sets of frame attachment fixtures. These fixtures are patterned after the roll bar attachment points. I'll need 3 sets (6 each) for the removable frame member for the secondary clutch, 4 each for the front of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), and who knows how many for the rear of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), or make hard mounts. With hard mounts in the rear I fear the trans will be a pain to get out. I need the Engine mounting points in the front of the Engine to be removable or else I'll need to remove the Engine out the top and I don't want to remove the cage to get the Engine out.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Inner sleeve getting cut to fit. Bending the tube did not look good and was too far into the Engine bay. I decited to miter the pipe, and double the miter.
Pilot Basketcase R.A-Arm005.jpg
Pilot Basketcase R.A-Arm005.jpg [ 534.44 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Left diagonal brace mitered, inner sleeve welded and now ready for welding and install.
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm001.jpg
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm001.jpg [ 578.83 KiB | Viewed 1882 times ]
File comment: Left diagonal brace installed
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm003.jpg
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm003.jpg [ 598.58 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: A-Arm installed. Not much movement in the A-Arm before it hit the frame, this modification definately needs the LT A-Arm. Nice to have my Engine bay back!
Pilot Basketcase R.A-Arm006.jpg
Pilot Basketcase R.A-Arm006.jpg [ 545.29 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: This is how far the frame moved out from the original spot. Thus the miter to bring it back in.
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm002.jpg
Pilot Basketcase R. A-Arm002.jpg [ 605.92 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Frame attachments.


Attachments:
File comment: Complete big unit, except fully welding clamps to the tubing. This will weld directly to the 1.5" lower frame tube where the 2nd roll cage hoop will attach. It will be in the stock location as the stock attachment point moved back 6.5"
Removable Frame 005.jpg
Removable Frame 005.jpg [ 307.27 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: One half completed, I weld 1/2 way around (as far as I can go) the crush sleeve to the inside of the tubing.
Removable Frame 003.jpg
Removable Frame 003.jpg [ 310.19 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Frame attachments comming together. I use a 1/2" drill bit and drill out one side for the crush sleeve. I go through and drill out the other side only half way throught the other side tubing, then "sharpen the crush sleeve on a belt sander so
Removable Frame 004.jpg
Removable Frame 004.jpg [ 321.28 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Removable frame member for servicing the secondary clutch. I used this method on my FL800 and with great results. It was a no brainer for me to do it again, as I feel this is really strong. Another point is I'm using LT on these Pilots so the bottoming out forced are not transfered above this removable frame member as it would be in a stock Pilot, so how much force is really placed right here?


Attachments:
File comment: Need to attach the diagonal brace to the backside of the attachment point. I welded in a 1" brace while making the removable frame member.
Removable Frame 007.jpg
Removable Frame 007.jpg [ 308.82 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: The cut away piece, soon to have attachment points on it to bolt back in place.
Removable Frame 008.jpg
Removable Frame 008.jpg [ 309.95 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Cutting away the frame.
Removable Frame 006.jpg
Removable Frame 006.jpg [ 313.47 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
More on the removable frame member.

Progress will now will really come to a halt. This thursday my work is sending me to Vegas for the Fence Convention and I'll be gone untill mid Febuary. I will also be going to see my brother and his hopefully get his new sand car in the sand. It's a 2 seat busa car, should be fun.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Removable frame member with attachment points. Keeping all attachment going the same direction.
Removable Frame 014.jpg
Removable Frame 014.jpg [ 314.15 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Now you see it.
Removable Frame 011.jpg
Removable Frame 011.jpg [ 308.47 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: No you don't.
Removable Frame 013.jpg
Removable Frame 013.jpg [ 312.95 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Another angle, notice the diagonal brace welded into the back of 1/8" steel of the attachment point. Inside the diagonal brace is a welded nut, 3/8" on all bolts.
Removable Frame 012.jpg
Removable Frame 012.jpg [ 315.9 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: The top attachment is a shorty, the nuts are kind of close for a ratchet but just makes.
Removable Frame 010.jpg
Removable Frame 010.jpg [ 307.74 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Any more updates?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Hoser,

I just got back to Alaska on Feb 13th to 15 more inches of snow, so it looks like I might get back in the garage this weekend if I get all my snowblowing done. :shock:

Next on the slate is robbing my Fl800 of it's RPM transmission and start mounting it into the Rage Pilot.

I think that the second hoop for the roll bar should be done next week and that should complete the frame stretch, then I can weld it all together. Since I did not widen the FL800, I think I'm going to use a % of the total width gained to determine how much to widen the roll cage. Example: I widened the back 2 inches then half way the cage should widen 1", sound good? I will also take into account what the frame/cage wants to do, hence don't put undo stress making it fit the formula, just see where it wants to be and what looks good. I'm liking the idea of extra room in the roll cage.

Wayne


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Well I finally was able to spend some time on the basket case, been reinforcing the rust.

The bottom of the transmission/Engine cradle is rusted pretty good, so much so that I decited to reinforce the lower suspension mounts.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: I'm welding all around the reinforcements to keep out moisture.
Removable Frame 001.jpg
Removable Frame 001.jpg [ 325.01 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Here you can see the webing totally rusted away.
Removable Frame 002.jpg
Removable Frame 002.jpg [ 327.76 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
At one point the bottom Engine/transmission cradle took a big hit, don't they all :shock:

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Cut away skid plate, I then bent it back the best I could then rewelded it.
Removable Frame 012.jpg
Removable Frame 012.jpg [ 323.51 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
File comment: Skid welded back in. I'm thinking I'll well all the way around to once again seal it. You can also see my reinforcements webing and the stock webing almost gone.
Removable Frame 003.jpg
Removable Frame 003.jpg [ 312.5 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
It's starting to look a lot like a Pilot! kindof

Well I got the second main hoop for the rollcage yesterday and wanted to mock up how it will look, well the bends don't match up very well at all. I was afraid of that, with the stock hoop and the new bent hoop being so close to one another I thought it might stand out. Honda uses a very tight radius on their 1.5" hoop, so I will be forced to have a second hoop made up. On the Fl800 I purchased a used hoop, but the cost of the roll cage and shipping made me look elsewhere this time. Oh well I guess IF I do another Pilot I'll already have a second hoop :-) Or my wife will commit my arse.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Cutting the stock rollcage apart. The cross member is so rusted it will need to be replaced, too many holes.
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 007.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 007.jpg [ 321.75 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: This cross member is so rusted it will need to be replaced. I'll cut out the seatbold bosses. Wonder why Honda did not use the inner rust preventitave on the main roll cage? The main cage hoop is not nearly as bad.
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 003.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 003.jpg [ 327.12 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: I think the 4" center to center looks better, maybe because I'm used to it.
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 001.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 001.jpg [ 316.5 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: The 6.5" center to center looks odd to me. Too much space between the hoops. I've been thinking of sliding the front hoop towards the Hailo bars approx .5", then move the second hoop 2" foreard and lenghtening the back down bars. This wi
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 005.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 005.jpg [ 313.77 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Here you can see the bends not looking good at all. I have no choice but to eliminate the stock hoop and get another one bent up.
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 007.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 007.jpg [ 302.92 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: The upper Hailo part of the roll cage needs to be widened so they match up with the wider hoops, also either the two hoops need to slide forward or lengthen the Hailo bars as they did not stretch as far as the frame, you know the whole A sq +B sq = C sq.
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 006.jpg
Pilot Basketcase roll cage 006.jpg [ 309.65 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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 Post subject: Mounting the RPM
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
With the Engine/transmission cradle out it made it much easier to repair the rust and mount the RPM transmission. I took out the trans from the FL800 as my new one is still on order.

I made mounting tabs for plates that bolt to the sides of the RPM, the front tab will be a piviot point and the back and the top (hat) will be slotted so the trans can piviot forward. This makes for easy belt removal and more importantly allows me to use many different belts lengths (with in a certian range) by setting the belt deflection. I think the center-to-center distance between clutches changes 3/4" which translates to a 1.5" difference in outside circumference.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: I needed to cut out the crossbar for clearance. It looks like the left side will need more clearancing, this 4-stroke is BIG.
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 009.jpg
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 009.jpg [ 310.92 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Centering up the RPM by the 930 cups.
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 011.jpg
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 011.jpg [ 318.45 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Mounting tabs.
Removable Frame 008.jpg
Removable Frame 008.jpg [ 325.87 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Well, I set the Engine in this weekend. That's about all I can say, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting dimmer! Those high Engine mounts are going to be a bioach to build. Not only are they high but they need to be removable. I'll definately have a low center of gravity!

The Engine is so tall it will be .25" above bottom of frame and just clear the crossbar for the seatbelts. I'm thinking I'll need the seatbelt bar removable to remove the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). With the Engine so far to the right the Engine cradle will need to be cut back almost to the lower suspension mounts, it's still not far enough to the right in pic #001.

Hoser/Anyone, what is the safe height distance for the seatbelt bar to be at behind the seat? Can I move it up say 2-3 inches? Or does it need to be lower than the seat back height? On my FL800 it is the stock height but this monster is tall, I REALLY don't want to remove the cage to get that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) out!

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: The long bolt in front is the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts. Front not so bad, the rear are on the cylinder. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is not centered to help line up clutches, secondary out 2.5" from where the FL800 is.
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 001.jpg
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 001.jpg [ 311.03 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: This is the spacing with the longest belt I can find, Mach Z belt. $140 from Skidoo or $100 for Ultimax 3's, OUCH time to look for another belt! This Engine sits on block and is just clearing seatbelt bar. Rear mount same height as RPM input shaft.
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 010.jpg
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 010.jpg [ 315.9 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Engine centered, secondary pulled up to FL800 spacer. I'll have to do some creative things to get side to side balance back. Engine needs to move over. Exhaust just clears RPM.
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 004.jpg
Pilot Basketcase engine mounting 004.jpg [ 312.94 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Any updates?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
It's been awhile since I posted my progress here, but I have been working.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: This is the first gen cross tube, I had a new tube bent at both ends, as this mitered one came too close the the Engine.
DSC00920.JPG
DSC00920.JPG [ 308.11 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: I inner sleeved the cradle
DSC00932.JPG
DSC00932.JPG [ 303.35 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: First I had to cut back the trans cradle way back as the Engine sets low in the chassie. I used pipe to locate the cradle in it's position.
DSC00919.JPG
DSC00919.JPG [ 307.02 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Centering up the cradle in the chassie.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Pulling the cradle into position.
DSC00940.JPG
DSC00940.JPG [ 318.77 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: centering up the CV cups with the chassie.
DSC00934.JPG
DSC00934.JPG [ 312 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Front to back distance the same. and yes I had to pull, and twist to get measurements the same.
DSC00937.JPG
DSC00937.JPG [ 304.1 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:54 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Rear Engine mounts. I kept the Engine .5" from the bottom of the frame.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: I attached two 1" tubes from the bent tube that the trans cradle attaches to the original Honda cross tube between rear shock mounts
DSC00949.JPG
DSC00949.JPG [ 299.29 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: recessed the PTO side bar for the trans access as the trans can "rock" back and forth. Notice the bottom "bent" cross tube as oposed the mitered one. Much more clearance on the mag side.
DSC00950.JPG
DSC00950.JPG [ 309.08 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Trans and "top cap" can rock forward and backward I think it travels 3/4". This is a big help with setting belt deflection which ever belt I end up with, also for belt removal. Rock it forward slip off belt.
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_056_127.jpg
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_056_127.jpg [ 37.28 KiB | Viewed 1984 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
The front Engine mounts were much harder to figure out. I needed them to be removable.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Finished Engine mounts. I plan on using the long bolt on the front mounts that will tie into the PTO frame side cross bracing to eliminate side loads. This is assuming I can cut off some of the Engine block casting blocks for the spreader tube clearance
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_070_351.jpg
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_070_351.jpg [ 36.42 KiB | Viewed 2191 times ]
File comment: WIth the Engine weight down the bolts spin freely. I planned to place two more bolts in the cross brace, but if my cross brace idea works I don't think I'll need them.
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_055_184.jpg
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_055_184.jpg [ 31.4 KiB | Viewed 2191 times ]
File comment: The cross tubes have Pinch tubes for 3/8" bolts. The Engine weight sets on the removable mount not on the bolts
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_041_165.jpg
t_pilot_basketcase_engine_mounting_041_165.jpg [ 33.98 KiB | Viewed 2191 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:15 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
been playing with styrofoam!

I decited to mock-up the tank in styrofoam so I could make a pattern. Hopefully this will keep the "opps I need a filler peice here" down to a minimum. With my FL800 it was MUCH more complicated so there was more filler peices because of the angles involved. I think filler pieces will stick out on this one, although the wrap-around peices will be challanging to make with out a lot of weld lines. I sure it'll have a few though.

I'm still waiting on the second hoop to be bent, it is holding up the filler neck, oil tank, radiator ect. Seems like everything is held up by that.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Made the bottom of the gas tank. I used 3 each stock Engine/trans mounts.
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 001.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 001.jpg [ 314.91 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 002.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 002.jpg [ 321.37 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 003.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 003.jpg [ 322.01 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 004.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 004.jpg [ 317.65 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: The rectangle area measures: 8" X 26.5" X 8.5" so far with 4 layers of styrofoam. It should work out to 9+ gallons with out the "wrap around sections"
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 005.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 005.jpg [ 300.94 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: I have decited to make the oil tank on the left side (PTO) and the filler neck to help off set some of the Engine weight that's on the right.
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 006.jpg
Pilot Basketcase gas tank 006.jpg [ 302.95 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 1:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:03 am
Posts: 185
Location: Anchorage Ak
Well I'm still waiting on parts for the Rage Pilot.....so I picked up a "quickie" project. I thought you guys might appreciate this one.

Wayne


Attachments:
File comment: Picked up a 1986 Yamaha BW200. I would have liked a BW350 but hard to find!
BW200 004.jpg
BW200 004.jpg [ 296.97 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: The strip down. This is the absolute most difficult airbox I have ever seen. You must take off the exhaust and slip the entire box out the back to open it up and clean the filter.
BW200 008.jpg
BW200 008.jpg [ 305.94 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: The Yamaha plastics were more money than the bike cost me if they were even available. So I got some off E-bay from DC plastics that fit the 350 and modified the rear frame to accept it.
BW200 010.jpg
BW200 010.jpg [ 300.7 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Rattled caned the frame, put in new bearings, seals in it and started the assembly. At the end of the frame is the aluminum extension to help out the rear fender. I need to make one for the front fender as well.
BW200 013.jpg
BW200 013.jpg [ 319.61 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
File comment: Near complete. I put on a cheap "loud" exhaust that is interchangeable with the stocker. I'm sure the HP nut in me will have this apart again to wedge in a XR400 or something. There is just nothing I can do for this old of a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), no hp part
BW200 016.jpg
BW200 016.jpg [ 305.37 KiB | Viewed 1880 times ]
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