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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Still not following you...=(

Not sure why adding a fill piece wouldn't git-r-dun (?).


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Still not following you...=(

Not sure why adding a fill piece wouldn't git-r-dun (?).


Adding a filler will certainly work.Sorry for the confusion.Its just easier to cut the pie shaped piece and it doesnt change the volume of the pipe.For what your doing ,fill it and move on.I should have said something before you cut the pipe.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:28 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
LOL...sorry for my confusion. And I really do appreciate the help. =)

Yes, theoretically I'd prefer to maintain the pipe's volume.

I've heard/read this Engine "isn't too pipe dependent", so I'm hoping & assuming this 3-4 cubic inches of additional volume won't affect much. And since the section will be smooth and non-interruptive, the 2-stroke energy shouldn't have much interference. I've seen worse.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:57 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Used some paper and scotch tape to make a pattern for the wedge. And was sure to make several copies (will probably be another iterative process).

Once the wedge is cut out, I'll pre-form it on a chunk of wood that's cut to a similar radius.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:06 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Got my pipe welded up this morning. Was pretty painless. Cut the wedge-fill shape to my pattern with the metabo and it fit pretty awesome 1st try. A few taps with the body hammer here & there, and a few tweaks with the pistol-grip clamps. Welding went smooth with a tack every 1/2", and then full welds. Only had a couple burn-thru's I had to fill in. Needs one last dress-up, mounts added, and then spring hooks welded on, and she's done. Probably going to go with what's either a Klemm or DG re-packable silencer. Needs a slip-fit end welded on the front end. The mount matches up to a stock muffler mount, too. =)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
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Location: near NJ rider
Nice job.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Looks like your making good progress


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Thanks. Been busy as hell at work, so pecking away at it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Started up buggy #1 after work yesterday, and got the itch to work on the FL470 buggy. Also discovered my parking brake cable was froze. At some point I need to cover a handful of maintenance items on B1 (pull rope, speedo sensor, increase main jet one size fatter, paint gage pod visor, etc).

Didn't have the opportunity to get my hands dirty in the shop, but did manage to bring the Ski-Doo wire harness inside and get her mapped out last night. I could've bought a manual with a schematic for the '91 Ski Doo Formula MX E, but now I know the ins/outs of the electrical system.

Got it 90% mapped out. The sled harness will replace everything in the FL350 harness up to the steering wheel (including ignition key). Then the start button, Off/On/Off toggle, and light switches in the Fl350 harness will splice into the Ski-Doo harness...a few extensions here, a few there. And then the rad fan relay and wiring will piggy-bag as needed, too. Will need to see if I can keep the gearbox lock-out circuit.

I mapped it out on 8.5x11 paper after several attempts where I kept running out of room. At one section of the sled harness, its 16-wires wide! Apparently this sled had a lot of options?? Bigger map was better in this case. I'll simplify it in Excel eventually.

*************

EDIT1: Looked over a few '97 Ski-Doo wiring schematics and surprisingly a lot is very similar to the MXZ-440. This should simplify things. Maaaaan, this schematic is amazingly detailed. Wish I could find the same for my exact sled!!!

*************

EDIT2: Eff it! I found the 1990-1995 SkiDoo all makes/models service manual in PDF for $12.95 paypal and just downloaded it. And this covers both my 467 and my 617 engines (and many more). =) The manual is 578 pages long!!!!

Also forgot to mention...I found a couple of spots in the harness that had melted on the sled's pipe. Not even sure how it ran before since wires were exposed and shorting!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here is the wiring diagram for the Ski Doo 1991-1993 FORMULA (MX, MX II, MX XTC R, PLUS, PLUS II,
PLUS E, PLUS ETC, MACH 1, MACH 1 II, MACH 1 XTC). It was two pages, so cropped the pages to fit on (1) Ledger sized page (11x17), and hence some slight misalignment. I couldn't find this sucker ANYWHERE, so I am more than happy to share it. :-)


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SkiDoo 1991-1993 Formula Wiring Diagram1.pdf [83.66 KiB]
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
BUMP...lol

Well as soon as my antibiotics can kill this Sinusitis I've had for going on 2wks now...
...and as soon as I can get my new patio project wired...
...I can get back to my FL470R project!

I've been living through BS's project the past few weeks!

Hoping to pick-up 20' each of 1-1/4" and 1" DOM this week from a local guy. This will be for the front suspension, replacement rear cross-brace, and brace where the frame was cut for the Rotax recoil.

Only other distraction...I bought a VF3 reed cage & reeds for my '87 Zilla.


:-)


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:39 pm 
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Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Got the sled wiring harness connected to a fresh battery. Don't have lights, but starter turns when key is turned. Was nice to hear SOMETHING make noise, lol. I need to lube the starter shaft or check my contacts b/c the gear won't engage the ring gear when spinning. Light circuit...need to check the schematic. Got a couple wires going nowhere, but pretty sure they're for the sled's heated grips.


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 9:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Got the sled wiring harness connected to a fresh battery. Don't have lights, but starter turns when key is turned. Was nice to hear SOMETHING make noise, lol. I need to lube the starter shaft or check my contacts b/c the gear won't engage the ring gear when spinning. Light circuit...need to check the schematic. Got a couple wires going nowhere, but pretty sure they're for the sled's heated grips.


Use a dry lube like the comet clutch lube on the starter so the lube don't attract dirt and gum it up in the future.


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:50 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
hoser wrote:
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Got the sled wiring harness connected to a fresh battery. Don't have lights, but starter turns when key is turned. Was nice to hear SOMETHING make noise, lol. I need to lube the starter shaft or check my contacts b/c the gear won't engage the ring gear when spinning. Light circuit...need to check the schematic. Got a couple wires going nowhere, but pretty sure they're for the sled's heated grips.


Use a dry lube like the comet clutch lube on the starter so the lube don't attract dirt and gum it up in the future.



Good idea, thank you! I've got some Grainger dry moly-lube that will work fine for it. Also...it will be something I'll need to check on often given the starter is on the front/bottom of the Engine bay where water, mud, etc may get to in some extreme cases. And a lot of this sled stuff wasn't made for drifting in mud puddles outside of a protective fiberglass hood! lol

Got a 11x17 print out of my schematic and going to trace down the issues tonight. I was also getting not-so-perfect continuity on the regulator ground, and the R/G wire on the starter solenoid (opposite the big RED battery lead) is a little 2-prong connector and I've only got one prong in contact. That nut is a BIOTCH to get to. I need to change the end connector to an eyelet and get it secured on the terminal. Hoping that not having the oil level sensor and fuel level sensor in-circuit isn't messing me up, too.

Looking forward to putting a little 2-stroke oil in the plug holes and rotary plate, and turning this Engine over a time or two (no ignition though).


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 3:33 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Also...it doesn't look to be too big of a chore at all to still be able to use the stock FL350R key switch for on/off, use the stock off/run/off for the sled's kill switch, use the stock push-button-starter for the Rotax starter, and the stock light toggles. Just need to check wire gauges on both harnesses, and with what I've got in stock in my shop. Won't have the transmission safety switch wired, but may opt for an "in-gear idiot light" instead. Only other item I have to wire-in is the rad fan which will run on a toggle switch & relay (until I can get the right temp switch).

Wiring hack fest will begin maybe even as early as tonight! :-)


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Also...it doesn't look to be too big of a chore at all to still be able to use the stock FL350R key switch for on/off, use the stock off/run/off for the sled's kill switch, use the stock push-button-starter for the Rotax starter, and the stock light toggles. Just need to check wire gauges on both harnesses, and with what I've got in stock in my shop. Won't have the transmission safety switch wired, but may opt for an "in-gear idiot light" instead. Only other item I have to wire-in is the rad fan which will run on a toggle switch & relay (until I can get the right temp switch).

Wiring hack fest will begin maybe even as early as tonight! :-)

Why not use the stock harness and branch out of that ?


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:18 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Using the oddy steering wheel harness, and tying it into the sled harness.


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Using the oddy steering wheel harness, and tying it into the sled harness.


Aw

Only reason I would use the stock harness
Would be for the hi lo and reg

Mine I'm might use the stock harness :shock:

Plus I don't got e start
Can't find an ring gear starter and clutch for cheap
Keep an eye out for me if ya can

The clutch I got only has indents on it no threads


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
You tap those holes to suit the ring gear,I've had to do the same with my TRA for the Drak.


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 10:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
My type-467 came with e-start, heated grips, fuel sensor, oil sensor, full gages, etc so there's quite a few more wires than the buggy's harness had. Hence, using the sled harness and simply splicing the Oddy's steering wheel controls in as needed.

My electrical plans...
> Sled hi/low lights to buggy hi/low (unless I go LED, then won't need H/L)
> Will use buggy On/Off light switch for headlights & taillight
> Might opt to install the sled brake switch on one of the brakes
> Sled kill button to buggy off/run/off switch
> Sled ignition/start to buggy key-switch and start button
> Sled low oil light to buggy dash
> Sled tach and water temp gage to buggy dash (but TT Vapor would replace these)
> Rad fan switch (from relay) to buggy dash
> This buggy will also have EGT, voltage gage, & a TrailTech Vapor unit on it which will simply be powered by a regulated 12v line.

Essentially, I'm just gonna start at the Engine bay and lengthen what I need back there, come up the left hand side of the seat, and to the dash panel & steering wheel.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Dear Beloved Buggy Project,

I can't believe I haven't worked on you since May. ='( I'm soooooo sorry!!! <crying>

You can blame these pesky paver sidewalks for the delay. Should be done with them this weekend. And once mulch beds are done, I just need to re-assemble your buddy the '87 LT500R, and then...THEN...you are back on front burner, I PROMISE!! :-) Might even clean up your space tonight since the driveway is getting sealed today and I can't do much of anything else.

Please do not blame my wife for how I've treated you. You're right, she doesn't really like you much. But when she gets to ride in her OWN buggy on the trails next to us, she'll finally understand.

Yours truly,

Dan


Attachments:
File comment: Back, ready to cut
IMAG0446.jpg
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File comment: Front pretty much done
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Dear Beloved Buggy Project,

I can't believe I haven't worked on you since May. ='( I'm soooooo sorry!!! <crying>

You can blame these pesky paver sidewalks for the delay. Should be done with them this weekend. And once mulch beds are done, I just need to re-assemble your buddy the '87 LT500R, and then...THEN...you are back on front burner, I PROMISE!! :-) Might even clean up your space tonight since the driveway is getting sealed today and I can't do much of anything else.

Please do not blame my wife for how I've treated you. You're right, she doesn't really like you much. But when she gets to ride in her OWN buggy on the trails next to us, she'll finally understand.

Yours truly,

Dan

Still not done?

Don't look like ill be finishing mine any time soon either :shock:
Gotta love the buzzy season


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:52 am 
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Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Literally haven't touched it since May. Its been sitting under a sheet with half an old shirt stuffed in the tailpipe and intake boot, lol.

What the heck are the skidoo header pipes made out of anyways? With all the cutting/welding/grinding I did on that conversion...there isn't an ounce of oxidation on there.

Only buggy thing I've really done is working this local guy on his lot of FL350 parts, and...surf this wonderful site! :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 10:00 am 
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Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Literally haven't touched it since May. Its been sitting under a sheet with half an old shirt stuffed in the tailpipe and intake boot, lol.

What the heck are the skidoo header pipes made out of anyways? With all the cutting/welding/grinding I did on that conversion...there isn't an ounce of oxidation on there.

Only buggy thing I've really done is working this local guy on his lot of FL350 parts, and...surf this wonderful site! :-)

This is how mine has been sitting

Could of worked on it yesterday but I decided to do some heavily required matinees to my hyster lift
Lash Valves oil, filter ,cap, rotor ,brakes


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Dear Beloved Buggy Project,

I can't believe I haven't worked on you since May. ='( I'm soooooo sorry!!! <crying>

You can blame these pesky paver sidewalks for the delay. Should be done with them this weekend. And once mulch beds are done, I just need to re-assemble your buddy the '87 LT500R, and then...THEN...you are back on front burner, I PROMISE!! :-) Might even clean up your space tonight since the driveway is getting sealed today and I can't do much of anything else.

Please do not blame my wife for how I've treated you. You're right, she doesn't really like you much. But when she gets to ride in her OWN buggy on the trails next to us, she'll finally understand.

Yours truly,

Dan

LMAO. Sounds like me and my wife don't blame her still laughing.


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