The farr kit you CANNOT use stock wheels. Calipers hit. You must use aftermarket Douglass/itp. Douglass does make a 4/144 wheel that is 4+1 offset. Its hat I run on the pilot. As close in aftermarket as you are going to find. They are however spendy. At least $100 per wheel.

YES on the early TRX hubs, specifically 86-87 since they fit the stock Oddy spindle. No secret there. Only catch there is that the stock wheel cannot be used. Have to switch to a wheel with 4/144 pattern.

Still toying with the caliper bracket though. The newer TRX450R calipers require you to hack off a corner & hole of the stock spindle.

So you can pick your poison -- buy a pair of 10x5 3+2 wheels, or, hack your spindles. ITP T-9 wheels are as cheap as $64/pair shipped. I do not know the stock offset of the TRX wheel, but some of them look a lot like the stock Oddy wheel.

So the cost recipe is...

$60 for the calipers, used (make/model TBD, but they are not TRX)
$12 for new pads
$64 for wheels (unless you can find some used ones on the cheap)
$50 for TRX hubs with rotors (new rotors are $65 if you think you need them)
$20 for the brake lines & splitter, or $0 if you keep the stock lines
$2 for a couple bolts for the caliper
$10 to have tires swapped to new wheels @ tire shop
$15 of steel plate from Lowe's for the brackets
TOTAL COST: ranges from $213-$298 cost depending on your preferences.

In my case, I already have the hubs/rotors, pads, lines, bolts, calipers and steel. So I'm ahead of the game by $170 (it pays to hoard, lol). For $74 I can have front disc brakes with shiny new front wheels.

The Farr kit is $500 + s/h, but allows you to use the stock wheels. Looking at the costs of existing parts and then the cost of the fab'd parts his kit includes, his price is fair. So I'm 100% not knocking his kit at all! I'm just cheap and like to do stuff myself.

IMPO...The disc brakes won't fade (dissipate heat better), have more piston area (50% more in this case), better wet performance, less moment of inertia to counteract since there is no big heavy rotating drum to stop, disc has less pad area but the disc has a clamping force vs an expanding force, no 'adjusting' required with a disc brake, drums are discontinued, and the majority of the braking is generally done by the front brakes anyhow (so as long as your rubber grips!).

I also want to switch to the dual motorcycle master cyl setup for my other buggies. For the cost of the master cyl rebuild kits, I can convert them over to brand-spanking new dual masters & rezzies.

Ok, I have to get to work. Need to get some serious shizzle done today.

Dan A.

For the Pilot or both Oddy & Pilot? Did not know that! Thanks man!!!

Well than why does Farr go to all the trouble & cost to machine custom hubs rather than simply use the TRX hubs????

You got me thinking here Dan

I just measured my FL350 spindles and it's about 4.4" BJ surface to BJ surface (the other kind of BJ)

A quick measurement on my TRX450 arms shows about 4.1" - I don't have any 250r spindles

Quick skillfully math means that is about a 5-6% increase in BJ angle misalignment per joint

Have you tried to bolt up the spindles and see if they get full range of motion during cycling?

I know the 250r spindles are possibly weaker (although, don't the early ones have bolt on steering arms? Would be a great way to correct the ackerman if needed)

But if so, there is a possible 06+ 450R spindle, caliper / 250x hub combo that would let you keep the original odyssey wheel bolt pattern - no wheel swap needed - maybe, big maybe

I don't know how much additional angle the FL350 BJ's have to give, or how much stress that would put on the linkage geometry, but it never hurts to check. Apparently the pilot ball joints are only using about 60% of their available range

P.S. For everyone that has aluminum wheels, if you are good, you can template and drill out your wheels to the new hole pattern and have swingers :) - save some extra $

Quick skillfully math means that is about a 5-6% increase in BJ angle misalignment per joint

Have you tried to bolt up the spindles and see if they get full range of motion during cycling?

I took a look at this during my earlier-than-normal lunch break today (furnace guy was there). Looks like the full range of motion at full bump to full droop based on max'ed out BJ's...

...stock spindle ~6.3"
...86-87 TRX250R ~6.0"

There's your 5%!

So if you really wanted to simplify the conversion and were willing accept the 0.3" of loss, you could simply buy the TRX250R spindle, hub, and caliper and make the swap. Would need two 4 on 144 wheels and a brake line tee-block, too. Lastly, the TRX setup puts the caliper on the front side of the spindle (whereas the way I'm doing it with the stock spindle puts the caliper to the rear).



ALSO...I picked up a 2" hole saw for the 51mm caliper pocket on the caliper stay bracket. I cut it out real quick today and it fits perfect. Looks like the cut was more like 52mm, but everything bolts up fine. The whole shabang fits nicely inside a 10x5 wheel.

Awesome, but I can't give up .3"...it would make my balls and stomach look 5% bigger

Good work

The far kit you CANNOT use stock wheels. Calipers hit. You must use aftermarket Douglass/itp. Douglass does make a 4/144 wheel that is 4+1 offset. Its hat I run on the pilot. As close in aftermarket as you are going to find. They are however spendy. At least $100 per wheel.

you have me curious now. I have a complete 87 trx250r front end sitting on my shelf and a set of hyper beadlocks for them. is it really that simple?