Board index

My Home Page

PilotOdyssey.com By hoser...


PilotOdyssey.com Chat Room

PilotOdyssey.com Photo Album

* Login   * Register * FAQ
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/smiley_cool.png PilotOdyssey.com Chat    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/find.png PilotOdyssey.com Google Search    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_tongue.png FL400 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_grin.png FL350 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_evilgrin.png FL250 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_unhappy.png Admin Email   
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 10:29 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 165 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
bullnerd wrote:
Cool, looks like a Clausing/Colechster?

Do you want the screws 180 or 90 degrees?


Clausing Colchester 16.

I want 2 set screws, 180-degrees apart.


Your a lucky man! That's a nice machine!

The problem with opposing set screws is that they create a pivot, rather than a clamp. I have no idea how much slop is in those splines so it might not be an issue. I'm sure you have your reasons.

Cant wait to see the next step.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Thank you all and keep posting as school is in session. I do tend to horse around in school though.

Rich


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Dave-Co wrote:
what is holding the flange to the trans splines


There will be two opposed set screws in the hub that fit the groove on the stock output shaft. Will be loctite'd in place. If there's any tug on the axle, there is plenty of plunge to absorb it.

Ended up centering the cup with the hub with the cup pocket and the hubs boss. Hub boss OD is 1.380 and cup pocket ID is 1.390. I couldn't do pocket on the hub with the lathe. I thought we had an indexing chuck for the mill, but we only have one on the cnc which I can't run.


put a spring clip snap ring on the transmission out put shaft then a id grove on your hub

or cross drill the hub just like the stock axle shaft

Speed


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here's the jist of the idea...see pic.

As for the retention method, to go with the 2 thru bolts like the stock method, I'd have to trim more of the gussets off the back of the hub for the holes. With 2 or 4 set screws, it's just drill and tap.

A pair would do it as there is no play in the splines.

I need to trim about 1/4"off the small end of the hub to get the most spline contact area.


Attachments:
20150302_114044.jpg
20150302_114044.jpg [ 44.79 KiB | Viewed 1265 times ]
1425314959686-1105461720.jpg
1425314959686-1105461720.jpg [ 37.04 KiB | Viewed 1265 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:32 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
looks good.

Hmmm..."what if"...one turned the 350 hub completely round, and slightly larger than the spline diameter, then pressed it into a bore in the "back" of Polaris cup, and welded it flush? That would be slick. OK...just thinking out loud ,don't have to answer that.

I'm still guessing that the outer pivots are "inside" the CV centerline, so the inner pivots will have to be the same, making the longer stub you have now......better.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
looks good.

Hmmm..."what if"...one turned the 350 hub completely round, and slightly larger than the spline diameter, then pressed it into a bore in the "back" of Polaris cup, and welded it flush? That would be slick. OK...just thinking out loud ,don't have to answer that.



I'm as deep as I'd like to be with the bore in the top of the cv cup. But if it were deep enough as-is, it may work. Would need to turn the flange-end OD down quite a bit since the trans box tapers. It only clears now by 1/4" with it mounted flange-side out like shown.

Now...I also have a 24spline ATV hub which I've already chopped the lug ears off of. The "flange" on it is a looot smaller OD than the 350 hub's. I could turn that down to fit snug in that cv cup bore and then weld. I have a pic of it someplace, but can't find it. Its sitting on my desk at work (not there today).

I like this! No rush and tons of thinking. I need to buy you a beer, man! lol


Back to the barn power topic...electrician was here. Looking at one of two options: bring the house up to 400A, or, run separate service for a second 200A box & meter at the barn. They're gonna price it both ways because the edison will charge 15% more for power on the 2nd meter since they treat it as "commercial service". Going 400A to the main house box (in garage) might cost a few hundy $'s more up front, but if/when I'm using the power in the shop...it will be cheaper and I'll have one bill. Again...I have 100A in the barn now, but my compressor needs 50A and plasma torch needs 42-50A, and I need to run lights, vent blower, tv, lights, kegerator, etc. But in order for the electrician to quote, I need to call the edison and have a "planner" come out and spec the existing transformer to ensure she's big enough. Just the wire to run the 171' is $900, so if I dug the trench and hung the box...I could skate by well-under $1500 for sure.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
If I start to get on your nerves, just tell me to beat it! no problem here.

If you get a chance take a pic of just the Polaris cup up against the output of the trans, centered, like the last pic, but without the 350 part.

Did you get a price for aluminum wire out to the shop?

I'm in the same boat right now. Nice new building with no power!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Someone asked about the VW cup fitting with my modified 350 hub...VW is huuuuge, at least the one I have. I think is from a Jetta or an Audi.


Attachments:
20150302_133454.jpg
20150302_133454.jpg [ 46.35 KiB | Viewed 1254 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
If you get a chance take a pic of just the Polaris cup up against the output of the trans, centered, like the last pic, but without the 350 part.


This?


Attachments:
20150302_134905.jpg
20150302_134905.jpg [ 45.58 KiB | Viewed 1251 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:33 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Perfect thanks. Just a visual for me and everyone else interested.

Getting back to the last pic, that was me, but I was talking about a plain old VW type 2, which I think is what Dave was talking about. But I think they are all right around 100mm?

Really, it looks like one could turn/weld just about any combo they want for the inner CV, as ling as you keep an eye on the diameter.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:03 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
well here is thought move the CV cup in so you can gauge off the transmission out put shaft counter bore to a slip fit
so there is not as much strain on the weld

just a thought :-)

speed


Attachments:
20150302_134905A.jpg
20150302_134905A.jpg [ 50.49 KiB | Viewed 1220 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:58 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
speedchaser wrote:
well here is thought move the CV cup in so you can gauge off the transmission out put shaft counter bore to a slip fit
so there is not as much strain on the weld

just a thought :-)

speed



I could've, but I've already got the cup bored on that end and bore ID is larger than output shaft OD. And the depth of the bore is limited by the depth of the cup on the business side. I'm already as deep as I want to be at about .180 deep. There's only like .500 meat between the end of the cup and the cup's inner dome.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:04 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here is the 24-spline ATC hub I've had for a while. Its beefy.


Attachments:
20150303_090201_resized.jpg
20150303_090201_resized.jpg [ 13.61 KiB | Viewed 1216 times ]
20150303_090206_resized.jpg
20150303_090206_resized.jpg [ 15.1 KiB | Viewed 1216 times ]
20150303_090215_resized.jpg
20150303_090215_resized.jpg [ 11.08 KiB | Viewed 1216 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:40 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Well since you brought up power to the garage me being a sparky maybe I can help a touch since you posting up some cool stuff.
You should be able to see what is marked on the transformer to what kva. so if you see 15 than 15x1000/240 or 62.5 amps. If you see nothing than it may be an old one with bad stuff in it and it will or should be replaced anyway. since you have a 200 on the house and depending upon age the transformer most likely is 25 kva or 104 amp. In most cases the ele contractor will need to show proof that a change is warranted via a load sheet. Since you have been running your shop already on this trans most likely they will not change with out a favor from you ele contractor. Also discuss your wanting to have a three phase machine in there as you may want to have an additional trans set in lieu of changing.

Your ele contractor should be able to do a load calculation for you and advise the best course of action. Also look at your ele bill this should be ale to help with you deciding. The power company is going to look at the same thing. You have to prove to them it is warranted. Also ask about the billing fees. sometime upgrades are absorbed by the power company if the math ads up. If you fudge the math to far then they can charge you for the upgrade. you ele contractor should have a good handle on this thin line. keep in mind when doing your load calc to figure on the max being ran at one time and the operation of equipment and load of the house within the same period of time. You just may be surprised on what you actually need.

With the second meter it most likely run off of DEMAND versus KWH. In some area the power company must be notified if a three phase converter is used. Discuss this with your ele contractor before talking with power company.

Adnoh

That it I'll be quiet now.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:18 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Thanks Adnoh! That's some good info there, man. :-)

My house was built in 01' and the neighbor in '02, and the transformer only feeds our 2 houses (both 200A). Transformer is up on the pole, so I have no idea what it is.

The load sheet would be a breeze given my plans, but since its for hobby (not commercial) I'm not sure how they'd feel. if I have to, I'll go buy 30 chickens and play the "farm" card. lol


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:30 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Augusta Ga
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Thanks Adnoh! That's some good info there, man. :-)

My house was built in 01' and the neighbor in '02, and the transformer only feeds our 2 houses (both 200A). Transformer is up on the pole, so I have no idea what it is.


The load sheet would be a breeze given my plans, but since its for hobby (not commercial) I'm not sure how they'd feel. if I have to, I'll go buy 30 chickens and play the "farm" card. lol


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:26 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:30 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Augusta Ga
I'm loving this thread.
It's been very informative.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:20 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Hoping to turn the red hub down on the lathe this week. Spring is springing and project time is dwindling.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 6:40 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Finally put in a few long minutes on the lathe today. Been busy as hell.

Turned down the red hub a bit. Nothing more than some simple facing with the carbide tool. Still need to take a tad more off, but its almost there. I also want to true up the tapered side.

This is just another option for the adapter.


Attachments:
20150320_175150.jpg
20150320_175150.jpg [ 59.55 KiB | Viewed 1137 times ]
20150320_175139.jpg
20150320_175139.jpg [ 42.95 KiB | Viewed 1137 times ]
20150320_175156.jpg
20150320_175156.jpg [ 54.65 KiB | Viewed 1137 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Coughslackercough! :-)

Glad you got some lathe time in, very rewarding stuff.

Just talking out loud again...but say if one was to turn that red hub completely round, the full length of the spline section. Then cut it in half, so you have a twofer. Bore a hole all the way through (or not?) the back of the Polaris CV, press the spline section in and weld around it? Maybe even key it with an offset pin or something simple. Or leave a little step/shoulder type deal. OK just for the record.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 10:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Not sure I'd have enough real estate if I cut the spline section I half. There's about 1" of bare output shaft before the splines start.

As for the press fit, that is a go...just not with a thru-hole in the dome of the cup. There's about 8-10 thow' clearance between the boss of the hub and the pocket on the top of the cup. If I turn the boss back about 50-thow, it should be right at press fit (it tapers). So it'd be self centering. Then weld them around the OD of the flange.

Thing I like about this adapter is that it fits the trans better, has more spline, and is beefy. Beefy enough for the holes for the retaining bolt holes.

No slacking here. Work is balls nuts right now. Spent last weekend tearing down a 12' octagon deck, 6 giant evergreen bushes, plus cast a 24x72x2" fireplace hearth top in concrete. Too much going on as usual!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 12:01 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Looks good, maybe use a little preheat before the weld since they are harder than normal metals? If they were mine I would tack weld them just enough to hold them together then throw them into my oven at 450-500 before welding out, then allow to cool real slow like cover with sand or back into the oven until the oven reaches room temp..


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
hoser wrote:
Looks good, maybe use a little preheat before the weld since they are harder than normal metals? If they were mine I would tack weld them just enough to hold them together then throw them into my oven at 450-500 before welding out, then allow to cool real slow like cover with sand or back into the oven until the oven reaches room temp..



Yep, that was my plan. Intense cleaning, 400-475F pre-heat, weld, pour in some 400-475F sand around part in a steel pan, right back in the oven, and then let it cool slowly by turning the temp down over the course of an hour or few. I'll be using my small lathe as a "fixture" to hold the parts in place during welding. Fortunately both my oven and lathe are on wheels can sit right next to one another. :-)

Unfortunately, however, Mother Nature is still being a royal B!TCH and its too cold to mess with anything in the shop. I can't weld at work (not certified) and all welding has to be done in our certified "hot work room" which has no such alignment fixtures. :shock:


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Ahhh..I forgot about the extra shaft on the trans..good call.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 1:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Spied this on evilBay the other day nad got me thinking about my LT FL470 project. Off of a 2014-2016 RZR XP rear axle carrier setup with (2) control arm mounts and (4) bolt holes for the trailing arm. It uses that little suspension stabilizer bar, which is simple, but I'd rather just have a 3rd control arm off the back. Not really concerned about "body roll" with the single-seater oddy frame.

My setup would have 3 rear links off the frame, a bracket off the carrier (similar to the end of the RZR t-arm), but then 2 forward trailing links. Me want 5-link. Its just tubing and thin plate!

But talk is cheap. Need to get in the shop, D$!!


Attachments:
File comment: 14-16 RZR XP rear carrier
s-l16005.jpg
s-l16005.jpg [ 54.1 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
2011.polaris.rzr-xp900.close-up.trailing-arm-rear-suspension.jpg
2011.polaris.rzr-xp900.close-up.trailing-arm-rear-suspension.jpg [ 55.21 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
DSC00928.JPG
DSC00928.JPG [ 72.88 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
pic3.jpg
pic3.jpg [ 55.84 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
File comment: RZR aftermarket trailing arms
10003526_549129595202853_70021998_n.jpg
10003526_549129595202853_70021998_n.jpg [ 28.44 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 165 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Duneit, eseymour72, Google [Bot], Lanix, Q, wyeeoddy


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group