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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
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Location: Ma
Eye candy. Can't wait to see the final product.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 5:40 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
go oddy wrote:
Eye candy. Can't wait to see the final product.


Can't wait to actually work on it! :-) I've got a week of R&R coming up (no buggy-time), but will be working on "stuff" soon-soon.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 11:44 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
So I got to doing some research on the RZR XP 900/1000 rear carrier with the (2) control arm mounts. I actually bought a carrier with bolts of evilBay and have been playing with it.

- The RZR XP carrier bearing is smaller (44x72x33.1) than the carrier I've been experimenting with (40x74x40), which sucks because my existing experimental axle & hub won't work. I need to dig deeper into the differences between each set of axle/hub/bearing tio see if I can still use the machined inner CV cup.

- The RZR XP control arm bolts are 10mm, so rod ends cost a tad more, but still readily available. Wouldn't be too hard to make 10mm-to-5/8 sleeves though. Or could simply have control arms with 10mm outer bungs/ends and then 3/8" on the inner and 5/8" on the trailers.

- Since there are (2) control arm mounts on the XP carrier, I'd need to add a 3rd. Would likely be upper/forward, perhaps using the same centerline (and maybe same bolt) as the top mount. Could put the 3rd link in double shear with a tab on the bracket weldment.

- Last night I got bored (and creative) and made a cardboard rendering of the basic idea of a "5 link adapter bracket" for this carrier. See pics. I've already got revisions 2-3-4-&-5 in my brain. I want it to be a simple jigsaw puzzle of parts for a weld-able assembly.

- Triangulated the (4) bolt hole spacing/dimensions with the calipers and dumped it into CAD. Printed the bolt layout 1:1 and confirmed the spacing on the part. I've got the ideas spinning in the virtual world now. :-) If I had my cnc plasma table up & running, I'd have ideas tacked-together this weekend. But...I don't. =(

- Hell...someone could actually convert their RZR XP to 5-link with the same bracket!


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File comment: Craft time!
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File comment: 1st revision of an idea. Like I said, I'm much further down the path now.
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File comment: centerline datums
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 4:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
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Location: near NJ rider
Woop-woop!

Good to see you working on it again!

I like that new housing. I have not looked at one close, but it looks promising.

What about price between that and the sportsman style ones? Is the XP stuff more $ ?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:24 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
Woop-woop!
What about price between that and the sportsman style ones? Is the XP stuff more $ ?


Nope, about same. The XP carriers can be had for $40-$65 each (used). New XP standard axles sell as cheap as $65 each. So cost is about the same up to maybe 10% more since XP stuff is just a little newer.

The benefits to the XP-style carrier is that it's got (2) of the control arm mounts there & located, its a little bit smaller, and it has the (4) bolt holes on a nice flat plane for the bracket mount. No reason why the Sportsman style wouldn't work, but I think the XP-style would be an easier build.

This is my last weekend of warm weather, so the last few rolls of insulation go up in the shop plus a few sheets of drywall. In one corner of the shop will sit the LT buggy and the other corner I will be building the cnc plasma table. Gonna' be a fun winter! :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 4:53 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
Will there be two lower links? I don't see the mount for a second link?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:01 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
I was thinking of 2 upper links, either...

1) Adding the 3rd link on the top/front in single shear (just get longer bolt).

2) Same spot ad above but extend a tab off the bracket to put that link in double shear. The bracket can distribute the load for the 3rd link.

Rear links will be 10mm or sleeved to bulk up to 5/8. Will have the two trailing links, too, 3/4" on upper (shock load) and 5/8 on lower.

Still not giving up on the sportsman carrier. Will have 3 single shear links plus the 2 trailing links.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:01 pm 
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Looks great can't wait to see on buggy and in action!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
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Location: near NJ rider
I wonder if there is a reason you don't see two upper links used more often? Like if you see a pro buggy, they have two links on the bottom, Like the Briggs. Is there a hidden force or leverage that were not seeing? Just guessing.

Also, how does the frame side look? Is there a good spot to mount the two uppers? To me( not owning a 350) it looks like it would be easier to go to the lower frame and just add tabs side by side.

"Still not giving up on the sportsman carrier"

Yeah man. Hash it out!

After looking at the XP version more , I still like the sportsman model. But I would go for super simple.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 11:07 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
I wonder if there is a reason you don't see two upper links used more often? Like if you see a pro buggy, they have two links on the bottom, Like the Briggs. Is there a hidden force or leverage that were not seeing? Just guessing.


The Arctic Cat Wildcat has 2 uppers...
Image
...bu you're right on both points = easier locating a lower mount on the frame, and more popular.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 10:13 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Took a gander at some of my frame pics (too lazy to go out in barn to look last night). In order to run a front/top control arm mount, there would definitely need to be some alterations/additions to the frame.

1. Battery box needs to be relocated.

2. Stock fuel tank gone (I'm using a fuel cell on my LT FL470 anyways)

3. The upper suspension links will be gone.

4. Cross-bar added to frame on both sides (see pic). The distance of the tranny output from the rear of the frame will require that same cross-bar addition anyways for the rear control arm mounts. Can't mount the control arms on the end of frame like on the RZR.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 10:38 am 
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Location: near NJ rider
Are you going to run outboard brakes?

If so, lose the stock disk, or at least the caliper and run the upper link tubes vertically.

You would have to do the two lower bars though.

Red lines are a tube, top to bottom. angled for camber gain.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:00 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
Are you going to run outboard brakes?

If so, lose the stock disk, or at least the caliper and run the upper link tubes vertically.

You would have to do the two lower bars though.

Red lines are a tube, top to bottom. angled for camber gain.



Dang, I forgot about the brakes for a second there! :-)

Yes, outboard brakes. So ditch the disc and the caliper ( and could use the $'s for all the freakin' rod ends! lol)

And "hell ya" on the red down-tubes.

Thanks B!!


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:19 am 
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like this, tabs at the bottom for the lower too.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:49 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Got it! That's pretty much the easiest approach to getting 3 links on the arse end of the 350.

Reminds me, I need to order a 0.75" and/or 1" tube die set for my bender (only have 1.25" now) for a-arms and other things such as these down tubes & the control arms (high clearance lowers). Built the bender myself to JD2 mod3 specs, but need to verify my dimensions match theirs to ensure the $155 die sets will fit. Anyone know if the JD2 dies can be bought someplace OTHER THAN EVILBAY? Do they have a website? Or is anyone making dies on the side?

UPDATE: The price is the same whether its on evilBay or their website, but shipping is actually $1 cheaper through evilBay. Not sure why they don't offer a price discount through their own site??


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:27 pm 
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I have looked for cheaper dies for both the JD2 and hossfield with no luck. Usually people who have the dies don't want to separate them from the bender. So used ones are even harder to find. I did acquire some JD2 dies from a friend who had his bender stolen and they were not able to get the dies. Now I need to get the bender to use them. They won't work on my hossfield. I think evilbay is about it. Unless you stumble upon them.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:46 pm 
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jknarfal wrote:
I have looked for cheaper dies for both the JD2 and hossfield with no luck. Usually people who have the dies don't want to separate them from the bender. So used ones are even harder to find. I did acquire some JD2 dies from a friend who had his bender stolen and they were not able to get the dies. Now I need to get the bender to use them. They won't work on my hossfield. I think evilbay is about it. Unless you stumble upon them.


If you have the JD2 M3 dies, building the bender is a cinch! I did it with a drill press & angle grinder. Although I plan to make a better/tighter one once the cnc table is setup.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:06 pm 
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I had planned on building one but ill probably just order one. I have too many projects as it is. I need to get back on my Odyssey soon. I did get my garage cleaned up a bit this weekend. So after the new year id like to get back at it. I think ill go with a 3 link just for simplicity. I've got a few ideas on how to set it up.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:20 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
jknarfal wrote:
I had planned on building one but ill probably just order one. I have too many projects as it is. I need to get back on my Odyssey soon. I did get my garage cleaned up a bit this weekend. So after the new year id like to get back at it. I think ill go with a 3 link just for simplicity. I've got a few ideas on how to set it up.


Get the SWAG Offroad mount for the air/hydraulic cylinder. It makes bending effortless. Granted...I've made like 12 bends on mine! lol


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:58 pm 
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I have a couple 110v hydraulic pumps that would work great to convert one. I scored a hossfield with a ton fof dies for everything but tubing. Eventually I will get them both set up.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 2:10 pm 
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Niiiice!


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 4:17 pm 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Some more pics for study, these off a 5-link-convetred Drak that's been up for sale on MB.net for a while. Its got a pretty beefy carrier, but the entire setup is pretty extreme & beefcakey. Far overbuilt for an FL350 platform. And is that an RPM box, or is that a Drak box?

Control arm config (once again) is 2 lower and 1 rear upper.


http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/minibuggy-net-lounge/16085-i-built-5-link-drakart-need-help-posting-build.html


UPDATE: Good Lord, look at that secondary clutch -- it's freakin' HUGE!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 12:47 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
woops, ignore this. :-)

bullnerd wrote:
Use this one for the lower front? 3/16", plenty strong and cheap and you don't have to make it.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... DsQMygNMA0

Use something similar to this for the the upper front, but machine a stub on the housing side that presses into the housing to take the load?

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... C8QMygTMBM

Done! :-)

BTW...how do I load pics from my Iphone? I tried it and it didn't work. Im not too good with this stuff.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:53 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
This project may have taken a change of direction. Decided to buy myself a present to celebrate Black History Month, Presidents Day, or maybe something to take the "sting" out of selling 2 buggies...

Granted the suspension challenges & design are still in play.


Attachments:
File comment: Surprised how compact these things are!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:03 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
Noice! Happy Black History Month, Presidents Day to you!

Is it new or the ebay one?


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