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D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=15270		 Page 5 of 7
Author:  bullnerd [ Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
bullnerd wrote:
Cool, looks like a Clausing/Colechster?

Do you want the screws 180 or 90 degrees?


Clausing Colchester 16.

I want 2 set screws, 180-degrees apart.


Your a lucky man! That's a nice machine!

The problem with opposing set screws is that they create a pivot, rather than a clamp. I have no idea how much slop is in those splines so it might not be an issue. I'm sure you have your reasons.

Cant wait to see the next step.
Author:  adnoh [ Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Thank you all and keep posting as school is in session. I do tend to horse around in school though.

Rich
Author:  speedchaser [ Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Dave-Co wrote:
what is holding the flange to the trans splines


There will be two opposed set screws in the hub that fit the groove on the stock output shaft. Will be loctite'd in place. If there's any tug on the axle, there is plenty of plunge to absorb it.

Ended up centering the cup with the hub with the cup pocket and the hubs boss. Hub boss OD is 1.380 and cup pocket ID is 1.390. I couldn't do pocket on the hub with the lathe. I thought we had an indexing chuck for the mill, but we only have one on the cnc which I can't run.


put a spring clip snap ring on the transmission out put shaft then a id grove on your hub

or cross drill the hub just like the stock axle shaft

Speed
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Here's the jist of the idea...see pic.

As for the retention method, to go with the 2 thru bolts like the stock method, I'd have to trim more of the gussets off the back of the hub for the holes. With 2 or 4 set screws, it's just drill and tap.

A pair would do it as there is no play in the splines.

I need to trim about 1/4"off the small end of the hub to get the most spline contact area.

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Author:  bullnerd [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
looks good.

Hmmm..."what if"...one turned the 350 hub completely round, and slightly larger than the spline diameter, then pressed it into a bore in the "back" of Polaris cup, and welded it flush? That would be slick. OK...just thinking out loud ,don't have to answer that.

I'm still guessing that the outer pivots are "inside" the CV centerline, so the inner pivots will have to be the same, making the longer stub you have now......better.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
bullnerd wrote:
looks good.

Hmmm..."what if"...one turned the 350 hub completely round, and slightly larger than the spline diameter, then pressed it into a bore in the "back" of Polaris cup, and welded it flush? That would be slick. OK...just thinking out loud ,don't have to answer that.



I'm as deep as I'd like to be with the bore in the top of the cv cup. But if it were deep enough as-is, it may work. Would need to turn the flange-end OD down quite a bit since the trans box tapers. It only clears now by 1/4" with it mounted flange-side out like shown.

Now...I also have a 24spline ATV hub which I've already chopped the lug ears off of. The "flange" on it is a looot smaller OD than the 350 hub's. I could turn that down to fit snug in that cv cup bore and then weld. I have a pic of it someplace, but can't find it. Its sitting on my desk at work (not there today).

I like this! No rush and tons of thinking. I need to buy you a beer, man! lol


Back to the barn power topic...electrician was here. Looking at one of two options: bring the house up to 400A, or, run separate service for a second 200A box & meter at the barn. They're gonna price it both ways because the edison will charge 15% more for power on the 2nd meter since they treat it as "commercial service". Going 400A to the main house box (in garage) might cost a few hundy $'s more up front, but if/when I'm using the power in the shop...it will be cheaper and I'll have one bill. Again...I have 100A in the barn now, but my compressor needs 50A and plasma torch needs 42-50A, and I need to run lights, vent blower, tv, lights, kegerator, etc. But in order for the electrician to quote, I need to call the edison and have a "planner" come out and spec the existing transformer to ensure she's big enough. Just the wire to run the 171' is $900, so if I dug the trench and hung the box...I could skate by well-under $1500 for sure.
Author:  bullnerd [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
If I start to get on your nerves, just tell me to beat it! no problem here.

If you get a chance take a pic of just the Polaris cup up against the output of the trans, centered, like the last pic, but without the 350 part.

Did you get a price for aluminum wire out to the shop?

I'm in the same boat right now. Nice new building with no power!
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Someone asked about the VW cup fitting with my modified 350 hub...VW is huuuuge, at least the one I have. I think is from a Jetta or an Audi.

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Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
bullnerd wrote:
If you get a chance take a pic of just the Polaris cup up against the output of the trans, centered, like the last pic, but without the 350 part.


This?

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Author:  bullnerd [ Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Perfect thanks. Just a visual for me and everyone else interested.

Getting back to the last pic, that was me, but I was talking about a plain old VW type 2, which I think is what Dave was talking about. But I think they are all right around 100mm?

Really, it looks like one could turn/weld just about any combo they want for the inner CV, as ling as you keep an eye on the diameter.
Author:  speedchaser [ Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
well here is thought move the CV cup in so you can gauge off the transmission out put shaft counter bore to a slip fit
so there is not as much strain on the weld

just a thought :-)

speed

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Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:58 am ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
speedchaser wrote:
well here is thought move the CV cup in so you can gauge off the transmission out put shaft counter bore to a slip fit
so there is not as much strain on the weld

just a thought :-)

speed



I could've, but I've already got the cup bored on that end and bore ID is larger than output shaft OD. And the depth of the bore is limited by the depth of the cup on the business side. I'm already as deep as I want to be at about .180 deep. There's only like .500 meat between the end of the cup and the cup's inner dome.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Here is the 24-spline ATC hub I've had for a while. Its beefy.

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Author:  adnoh [ Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Well since you brought up power to the garage me being a sparky maybe I can help a touch since you posting up some cool stuff.
You should be able to see what is marked on the transformer to what kva. so if you see 15 than 15x1000/240 or 62.5 amps. If you see nothing than it may be an old one with bad stuff in it and it will or should be replaced anyway. since you have a 200 on the house and depending upon age the transformer most likely is 25 kva or 104 amp. In most cases the ele contractor will need to show proof that a change is warranted via a load sheet. Since you have been running your shop already on this trans most likely they will not change with out a favor from you ele contractor. Also discuss your wanting to have a three phase machine in there as you may want to have an additional trans set in lieu of changing.

Your ele contractor should be able to do a load calculation for you and advise the best course of action. Also look at your ele bill this should be ale to help with you deciding. The power company is going to look at the same thing. You have to prove to them it is warranted. Also ask about the billing fees. sometime upgrades are absorbed by the power company if the math ads up. If you fudge the math to far then they can charge you for the upgrade. you ele contractor should have a good handle on this thin line. keep in mind when doing your load calc to figure on the max being ran at one time and the operation of equipment and load of the house within the same period of time. You just may be surprised on what you actually need.

With the second meter it most likely run off of DEMAND versus KWH. In some area the power company must be notified if a three phase converter is used. Discuss this with your ele contractor before talking with power company.

Adnoh

That it I'll be quiet now.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Thanks Adnoh! That's some good info there, man. :-)

My house was built in 01' and the neighbor in '02, and the transformer only feeds our 2 houses (both 200A). Transformer is up on the pole, so I have no idea what it is.

The load sheet would be a breeze given my plans, but since its for hobby (not commercial) I'm not sure how they'd feel. if I have to, I'll go buy 30 chickens and play the "farm" card. lol
Author:  DarkAngel [ Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Thanks Adnoh! That's some good info there, man. :-)

My house was built in 01' and the neighbor in '02, and the transformer only feeds our 2 houses (both 200A). Transformer is up on the pole, so I have no idea what it is.


The load sheet would be a breeze given my plans, but since its for hobby (not commercial) I'm not sure how they'd feel. if I have to, I'll go buy 30 chickens and play the "farm" card. lol
Author:  DarkAngel [ Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
I'm loving this thread.
It's been very informative.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:20 am ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Hoping to turn the red hub down on the lathe this week. Spring is springing and project time is dwindling.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Fri Mar 20, 2015 6:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Finally put in a few long minutes on the lathe today. Been busy as hell.

Turned down the red hub a bit. Nothing more than some simple facing with the carbide tool. Still need to take a tad more off, but its almost there. I also want to true up the tapered side.

This is just another option for the adapter.

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Author:  bullnerd [ Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Coughslackercough! :-)

Glad you got some lathe time in, very rewarding stuff.

Just talking out loud again...but say if one was to turn that red hub completely round, the full length of the spline section. Then cut it in half, so you have a twofer. Bore a hole all the way through (or not?) the back of the Polaris CV, press the spline section in and weld around it? Maybe even key it with an offset pin or something simple. Or leave a little step/shoulder type deal. OK just for the record.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Fri Mar 20, 2015 10:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Not sure I'd have enough real estate if I cut the spline section I half. There's about 1" of bare output shaft before the splines start.

As for the press fit, that is a go...just not with a thru-hole in the dome of the cup. There's about 8-10 thow' clearance between the boss of the hub and the pocket on the top of the cup. If I turn the boss back about 50-thow, it should be right at press fit (it tapers). So it'd be self centering. Then weld them around the OD of the flange.

Thing I like about this adapter is that it fits the trans better, has more spline, and is beefy. Beefy enough for the holes for the retaining bolt holes.

No slacking here. Work is balls nuts right now. Spent last weekend tearing down a 12' octagon deck, 6 giant evergreen bushes, plus cast a 24x72x2" fireplace hearth top in concrete. Too much going on as usual!
Author:  hoser [ Sat Mar 21, 2015 12:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Looks good, maybe use a little preheat before the weld since they are harder than normal metals? If they were mine I would tack weld them just enough to hold them together then throw them into my oven at 450-500 before welding out, then allow to cool real slow like cover with sand or back into the oven until the oven reaches room temp..
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
hoser wrote:
Looks good, maybe use a little preheat before the weld since they are harder than normal metals? If they were mine I would tack weld them just enough to hold them together then throw them into my oven at 450-500 before welding out, then allow to cool real slow like cover with sand or back into the oven until the oven reaches room temp..



Yep, that was my plan. Intense cleaning, 400-475F pre-heat, weld, pour in some 400-475F sand around part in a steel pan, right back in the oven, and then let it cool slowly by turning the temp down over the course of an hour or few. I'll be using my small lathe as a "fixture" to hold the parts in place during welding. Fortunately both my oven and lathe are on wheels can sit right next to one another. :-)

Unfortunately, however, Mother Nature is still being a royal B!TCH and its too cold to mess with anything in the shop. I can't weld at work (not certified) and all welding has to be done in our certified "hot work room" which has no such alignment fixtures. :shock:
Author:  bullnerd [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Ahhh..I forgot about the extra shaft on the trans..good call.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Tue Dec 01, 2015 1:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: D$ Experimentation with FL350R Rear LT
Spied this on evilBay the other day nad got me thinking about my LT FL470 project. Off of a 2014-2016 RZR XP rear axle carrier setup with (2) control arm mounts and (4) bolt holes for the trailing arm. It uses that little suspension stabilizer bar, which is simple, but I'd rather just have a 3rd control arm off the back. Not really concerned about "body roll" with the single-seater oddy frame.

My setup would have 3 rear links off the frame, a bracket off the carrier (similar to the end of the RZR t-arm), but then 2 forward trailing links. Me want 5-link. Its just tubing and thin plate!

But talk is cheap. Need to get in the shop, D$!!

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