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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Since I tried and failed to trade the RZR for some equipment, it's serving me some Karma. After a hot lap around the 3mi block at 40mph, I smelled hot gear fluid. Didn't think anything of it. An hour later there was a small puddle under the front diff. And it feels like it's stuck in AWD. The front diff is the ONLY thing I didn't overhaul when I got this thing. New seals, gasket and alum sprague = $200 + probably an entire Saturday. =(


That sucks

FYI the front diff uses a special fluid and only like 6oz I usually change it every 1000 miles on my trips it uses so little oil and its pretty easy to change.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
6oz?...aw crap. There was probably 4oz on the floor and a couple more on the skid plate, lol! :shock: I hope I didn't cook the diff.


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:28 pm
Posts: 887
That sucks. Did you get the power steering finished up?

I had some differential fun last year. Rolling down a hill. I guess it was a weak design on the 660 rhino and the driveshaft rear brake makes the matter even worse. Both of those problems were cured on the 700 model. Had to have the back of the frame rebuild and strengthened. Turned out nice anyway. Expensive but nice. Led to a laundry list of new parts while I had everything apart back there and some Walker Evans Racing shocks all the way around. Couldn't put the old stock crustys back on it.


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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
atcdude123 wrote:
That sucks. Did you get the power steering finished up?

I had some differential fun last year. Rolling down a hill. I guess it was a weak design on the 660 rhino and the driveshaft rear brake makes the matter even worse. Both of those problems were cured on the 700 model. Had to have the back of the frame rebuild and strengthened. Turned out nice anyway. Expensive but nice. Led to a laundry list of new parts while I had everything apart back there and some Walker Evans Racing shocks all the way around. Couldn't put the old stock crustys back on it.



How many miles on the Rhino now?


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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Finally getting around to making this repair. Well...at least I've got one wheel off, lol.


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Bad news....there's a $500 fix. The prev owner roached it and the diff gear (29 sheared teeth). Input shaft, case, bearings, all look good. Now i know where that "clangy" noise was coming from.

I bought a seal and bearing kit hoping it just needed a seal. Baha..ha...ha...boo...hooooo. :shock:


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Ohhhhhhhh that looks nasty.
That shyte won't buff out.


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
canadian oddy wrote:
Ohhhhhhhh that looks nasty.
That shyte won't buff out.


Only thing it's gonna buff out...is my WALLET. lol

Parts from dealer are $653 + tax. Seems the aftermarket makes ring gear sets for HALF the price starting at the 2011 model years. And here I have a 2010. Ugh.

My $3500 barn find is about to become the $5100 barn find, in total. Weeeeeeeeeee!


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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2017 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
So what caused the failure?


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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2017 10:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
I'm pretty sure i bought it already broken. It's only progressed. Front diff engagement was wacky and random. Had a clangy sound that was prob the diff catching the prop shaft. Got so bad, the fluid was full of trash and wasted the passenger side hub seal.

Used rzr 1000 diff with HD cage should be here this weekend. Cha-ching! :shock:


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 6:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
I'm pretty sure i bought it already broken. It's only progressed. Front diff engagement was wacky and random. Had a clangy sound that was prob the diff catching the prop shaft. Got so bad, the fluid was full of trash and wasted the passenger side hub seal.

Used rzr 1000 diff with HD cage should be here this weekend. Cha-ching! :shock:


Document the install please.

Is the 1000 diff the same gear ratio as your old one?

Any parts of the old diff still good?


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
The gear ratios are slightly different (3.8 @800 and 3.2 @1k), and that DEFINITELY freaked me out at first. But there are many success stories of the swap. Google "rzr 1k diff swap" and there's a bunch. Basically you never drive around in 4wd on hard pack or sticky pavement anyways, so no reason to start doing it. If you're in 4wd, it's because there's slip.

There is a slight frame mod required to clearance the 1k diff, but nothing crazy.

Second Chance RZR Parts is where I got it. They're tearing own an XP1000 this week. Sent me 3 videos showing the diff components, re-assembly and testing along with some commentary. They are my new benchmark for "how to sell someone parts 1300miles away", lol. The 1k was +$150 over a stock 800 diff.

I've got all the old parts of the 800 diff. The ring gear, armature plate and cage are bombed, but everything else is nice. If any of the guts' part numbers match up to the 1k, I'll keep them. Anything no longer applicable will get sold on CL and the RZR forums for "must sell" prices.

Good timing right now for this since I'm also finally installing my EPS kit I bought off fleaBay a few months back.

Looking forward to driving with a proper-working front diff and EPS.

-Dan


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
The ratio different will make the front end pull a little harder than the rear. Many mud racers prefer this set up.if the ratio was the other way around you would be getting a lot of push in 4wd to where the front would just be getting pushed through the mud instead of driving through. That being said getting traction accidently while spinning in 4wd could be real bad.


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 3:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Disregard that I read the ratios backwards. So u will get some push but there so close it shouldn't be bad. Still watch out for random traction.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
FloridaEdd wrote:
Disregard that I read the ratios backwards. So u will get some push but there so close it shouldn't be bad. Still watch out for random traction.


Yes, it will be interesting to try and "feel" the difference in ratios. Most of the riding I do...probably doesn't even require 4wd. Mostly trails, yard and some road. Rear really doesn't slip much.

As soon as the new diff and EPS are in the RZR, and I get a front attachment mount built for my zero-turn...I'll be working on converting my 46" snowblower to attach to the front of the RZR. Never a dull moment!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
FloridaEdd wrote:
Disregard that I read the ratios backwards. So u will get some push but there so close it shouldn't be bad. Still watch out for random traction.


Yes, it will be interesting to try and "feel" the difference in ratios. Most of the riding I do...probably doesn't even require 4wd. Mostly trails, yard and some road. Rear really doesn't slip much.

As soon as the new diff and EPS are in the RZR, and I get a front attachment mount built for my zero-turn...I'll be working on converting my 46" snowblower to attach to the front of the RZR. Never a dull moment!



Can you drive slow enough in the RZR for a snow blower without 'Creeping' putting excessive wear on the belt and clutches?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
The gear ratios are slightly different (3.8 @800 and 3.2 @1k), and that DEFINITELY freaked me out at first. But there are many success stories of the swap. Google "rzr 1k diff swap" and there's a bunch. Basically you never drive around in 4wd on hard pack or sticky pavement anyways, so no reason to start doing it. If you're in 4wd, it's because there's slip.

There is a slight frame mod required to clearance the 1k diff, but nothing crazy.

Second Chance RZR Parts is where I got it. They're tearing own an XP1000 this week. Sent me 3 videos showing the diff components, re-assembly and testing along with some commentary. They are my new benchmark for "how to sell someone parts 1300miles away", lol. The 1k was +$150 over a stock 800 diff.

I've got all the old parts of the 800 diff. The ring gear, armature plate and cage are bombed, but everything else is nice. If any of the guts' part numbers match up to the 1k, I'll keep them. Anything no longer applicable will get sold on CL and the RZR forums for "must sell" prices.

Good timing right now for this since I'm also finally installing my EPS kit I bought off fleaBay a few months back.

Looking forward to driving with a proper-working front diff and EPS.

-Dan


Put on your thinking cap look at the old Diff do you see a way to increase the amount of lube internally or externally 6.0 OZ is a crazy small amount of oil for a gear box imo...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 9:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
hoser wrote:
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
FloridaEdd wrote:
Disregard that I read the ratios backwards. So u will get some push but there so close it shouldn't be bad. Still watch out for random traction.


Yes, it will be interesting to try and "feel" the difference in ratios. Most of the riding I do...probably doesn't even require 4wd. Mostly trails, yard and some road. Rear really doesn't slip much.

As soon as the new diff and EPS are in the RZR, and I get a front attachment mount built for my zero-turn...I'll be working on converting my 46" snowblower to attach to the front of the RZR. Never a dull moment!



Can you drive slow enough in the RZR for a snow blower without 'Creeping' putting excessive wear on the belt and clutches?



All depends on how big of an Engine I use for the snowblower. More power = more speed. Plow is easier, but harder on my asphalt and doesn't "throw" the snow. Not too concerned since I only had to use my garden tractor blower TWICE last year for snow.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 9:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
hoser wrote:
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
The gear ratios are slightly different (3.8 @800 and 3.2 @1k), and that DEFINITELY freaked me out at first. But there are many success stories of the swap. Google "rzr 1k diff swap" and there's a bunch. Basically you never drive around in 4wd on hard pack or sticky pavement anyways, so no reason to start doing it. If you're in 4wd, it's because there's slip.

There is a slight frame mod required to clearance the 1k diff, but nothing crazy.

Second Chance RZR Parts is where I got it. They're tearing own an XP1000 this week. Sent me 3 videos showing the diff components, re-assembly and testing along with some commentary. They are my new benchmark for "how to sell someone parts 1300miles away", lol. The 1k was +$150 over a stock 800 diff.

I've got all the old parts of the 800 diff. The ring gear, armature plate and cage are bombed, but everything else is nice. If any of the guts' part numbers match up to the 1k, I'll keep them. Anything no longer applicable will get sold on CL and the RZR forums for "must sell" prices.

Good timing right now for this since I'm also finally installing my EPS kit I bought off fleaBay a few months back.

Looking forward to driving with a proper-working front diff and EPS.

-Dan


Put on your thinking cap look at the old Diff do you see a way to increase the amount of lube internally or externally 6.0 OZ is a crazy small amount of oil for a gear box imo...



When I took the old one apart, I noticed there isn't much free real estate inside it. The 6oz is prob enough to pool in the case and cover the meshing ring gear & pinion. Too much and you'll end up blowing it up the vent tube. It there's not enough vent you could blow out a seal. And no one likes blowing seals (not even polar bears).


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Got the XP1000 diff in my RZR 800. Took only a little hacking and fab'ing.

1. I cut off the factory front tow rod that's welded to the frame. I have a winch, so no need for the bar.
2. Cut a rectangle out of the skid/mount plate where the XP1000 holes land. I could've just drilled one new hole and die-grinded room for the 2nd bolt, but the bigger diff tips up in the front. Has to be mounted at the same angle.
3. Grinded some clearance on the bottom of the steering rack mount (pinion boss clearance).
3. Made a set of 3 plates on the cnc plasma. Two plates form a 90-deg angle and hug the roll cage tubing. Third plate is for the rear mount.
4. With diff, axles, shocks & a-arms loosely assembled, I bolted the plates to the diff and tack-welded plates.
5. Took front end apart and welded the plates in place.
6. Threw down some paint.
7. Put it all back together.

Issue #1: I didn't clear off the mill scale from the plates, nor did I get all of the grease and grime off the backside of the frame parts for welding. Welded a little fugly as you can see.

Issue #2: Diff vent clearance @ winch cable. Turned a set of 1-1/8" bushings to boost the winch up higher so the winch line clears the vent fitting & vent tube. Plenty of real estate to go higher. Thought the Polaris winch mount bolts would be SAE, but they ended up being M8x1.25. Bass turds. Cost me 3 trips to Menards, lol. Ended up using spare parts from my Honda/Suzuki bolt bin.

Issue #3: Fried my throttle cable when grinding the frame, a $70 mistake! Throttle was sticking thanks to some melting when I was grinding/cutting. Had to replace throttle cable.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here is the front with the tow bar cut off...


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
And I finally got a tractor...and still got to keep my RZR! :-) :-) :-) :-)

$2800 for a very clean fully functional 1984 Ford 1210 4wd diesel with 768B loader (lifts 1/2-ton), 3pt, pto, etc. Bought it from a pastor who's church had owned it a decade prior. Its lived a good life and will live even easier in my barn.


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File comment: My goofy a$$ driving my new toy...
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Nice buy! the kids seem to like also. :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
rmesser wrote:
Nice buy! the kids seem to like also. :-)


You'd be amazed what my wife will let me buy when i tell her how much the kids will love it, lol.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
And I finally got a tractor...and still got to keep my RZR! :-) :-) :-) :-)

$2800 for a very clean fully functional 1984 Ford 1210 4wd diesel with 768B loader (lifts 1/2-ton), 3pt, pto, etc. Bought it from a pastor who's church has owned it for a decade or so. Its lived a good life and will live even easier in my barn.


Where was the tractor made?


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