Use blue loctite on the cover bolts

Will do.

eyeballed the carbs so they were as close to perfect as i can get them in sync. I am still going to order the tool. Its running real good right now. Just need to re-jet it for the newly sealed intake.

Is it idling better?

Matt,you can use a drill bit shank to check/set the carbs.

i orderd the carb sync tool. was cheap. i used a mirror and got them close.




yes! that was my damn issue stupid vacuum leak. im so glad it waant anything majorly wrong .

The throttle responce with those carbs is like no other. Glad its good now buddy.

any updates? video?

Not too much to report. stll playing with it. Last time i had it out it wouldn't want to idle down. every time after i really opened it up it would act lean in the mid range. So i upped the low jets. It made it better. The next time out it was running great at first but kept getting worse the longer i ran it. by the end of the run it was sputtering up high and had a weird ringing almost like a crank bearing was going out or somthing and it wouldn't idle down again.

Got it home, started to CSI. Turns out the stator side crank seal was coming loose. The stator is mounted to the crank seal plate so it was loose as well probably causing the misfire at high RPM.

here is a video i have. You can hear toward the end the sputtering when i am at higher RPM, and you can also hear an odd noise in a certain part of the video.

It may not run right but man it looks like it really halls azz.

Thanks, im getting closer. but you are correct, it is very quick. If it would hook up i wouldn't be able to keep the front end down!

well to update this thread, a couple weeks ago i finally installed a set of FOX 2.0 shocks for the yoda front end kit. changed the entire look of the machine. The picture is right after i installed them. they had too much pressure in them. Dropped to 150PSI and it is much better.



Also, burnt up the torque clutch. Got it rebuilt and was getting ready to go for a ride but the pilot would not start. Puzzled i began digging into it. It would spark for 2-3 second and then the spark would quit. Let it sit and it would do the same thing. Checked the coil, it was good, checked the coil pickup and the flywheel, it was good. Last thing i did was to replace the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) with a spare that i have here.... and what do you know.. it fired right up. that is all great but the CDIs are programmed to only accept the tether key from that sled, a different key and it will start but not rev passed 3k rpm. so that is where i am at now. i need to take it to a dealer and have them program the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) for my old key, or see if they can disasble the DESS altogether. I am going to give them a call this week and see if i can have that done. Be nice if i could take just the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) into them and not the whole machine..

Did you try the original CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) again I have seen many the connection at the plug was not good, unplug, plug back in and they worked, try it again before you reprogram.

unfortunately that did not work. I thought the same way. 2 cdis I had spare worked. but the original still did not work. when I have the other one keyed to my key, I will see if they can plug into it and see what's up. what can cause a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to die? it was running perfect when I shut it off after last ride.

Lots of good info on the web how the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) works http://www.google.com/search?q=how+a+cd ... =firefox-a

They are like any other electronic device working perfect one moment then not the next, usually they are rock solid reliable.

So, still having a nightmare tuning these carbs, i had them close, but it was just not runing consistent at all. So i brought it into the shop and decided to start looking for air leaks again. Started a leakdown test and it would not build pressure at all. Sprayed some soapy water around the intake area, crank seal area, base gasket ect. Started getting some bubbles coming from the intake, about where the 2 pieces come together. Took a cloer look, noticed a crack.

I have a different intake as a spare, so i got it out. I put the new piece ontop of the old intake base and noticed it did not sit flat. Grabbed the new intake base and it would sit flat on there no problems. So, looks like the old intake base was warped, causing excess pressure on this piece. Probably never has sealed well at all either.....

Here is a picture of the crack. It is very small hairline crack, hope you will be able to see it.

very small ha ha

What did you do for the clutch? Did you cut down the sled clutch or widen the pilot clutch? What belt did you use?
Im putting a 583 in my pilot and it has the sled clutch and its wider then the pilot

did you have to move the driven out to line up with the dive clutch as well?

For the clutching, i used the stock 670 clutch and a stock pilot driven. Did not cut or widen either. Was using a stock Honda belt, but switched to a Dayco HPX2204. I believe the HPX2203 is what people run on a stock pilot? the 2204 is just a hair wider. cant see a difference at all. The clutching is working fairly well, i adjusted the clickers all the way to 1 to keep the RPMS as low as i can. It runs about 7500 on acceleration. the belt has not ran all the way up the drive clutch. Probably like 1/4 to 1/2" from the top. Not sure exactly the cause, or if i just have not opened it up long enough.

Since there is so many people doing rotax or sled conversions, im wondering if it would be worthwile to find someone who can make a new input shaft to fit a standard sled driven clutch and see what it would cost to do a group buy on them. I know they have been made before but i forget who. Would make clutching quite a bit easier and almost infinately adjustable since the pilot driven is really what hinders us at the moment.



No i did not, the drive clutch on the Engine is sitting to where there is just enough room to squeeze a belt in between the stock unmodified frame. the driven is in the stock location.

took the pilot out this weekend. Ran great. Rode for about 4 hours with an occasional stop for water/shade. Only issue i need to work out with the tuning is the way that it starts. It will pop once as soon as i hit the key, crank for another 3-4 seconds and finally start to fire and within a second after it fires this second time it reaches idle RPM. I havent messed with the carbs since finding the air leak so need to get back to jetting soon.

The next thing i want to address is the suspension. THe entire time i was riding it i fought the steering. If i had any sort of speed and tried to turn more than 1/4 each way, it would want to quickly turn to full lock. Would this mean too much toe in or out? Also, i have a picture of when i jumped it and the tires are toed way in. Once the suspension is unloaded they do this. and i am assuming when it is completely compressed it will be the opposite.

Other than those two things(somewhat minor) i have no complaints. Has all the power i could want, quite fast, and the suspension soaks up more bumps than the FL570 w/ works shocks! I have a short video of a jump i am working on getting from a friend, so cool to skip through frame by frame and see the suspension work!

got any pics of your cooling lines? how did you reduce the radiator inlet and outlet lines to fit the rotax? what radiator did you use and where did you get it?

looks sweet

No pics of the lines. To reduce the radiator lines to match the rotax, i used some reducers that were made by a guy on minibuggy. The radiator is also from the same guy. It is an aftermarket civic radiator with a custom shroud. You should have no problem making a shroud like this one. I think it really looks badass and works just as well as it looks.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/cooling/ ... rouds.html

here is his personal website where everything is for sale. He is a great guy to deal with.
http://www.rickskraschsite.com/catalog.php?Category=5

Rick S. is out of Metamora, MI which is like 40-minutes west from me. Never met the guy nor been to his shop though, but he does some amazing work.

If I can make the space, I'd gladly spend $40 on that shroud for my civic rad.