Thanks AK! i will work on that once i get my frame finished and back from powdercoat.

I got word that my front end kit is finished, just waiting for my tie rods to get to Tom so he can extend them. Im excited.

Just disassembled my carbs to give them a cleaning since they were used. They had some old dried fuel in them, but they are in great shape. I checked the jetting. Both carbs have a 130 in them. Do you think that this is a good starting point? I believe the carbs were on a 700ishcc seadoo. They are 38mm mikuni down draft carbs. Any input would be aprecaited.

Also, i got to looking at them closer. Do these carbs require a return line to the tank? IIf so i will have to have a second bung welded into the tank. If they do require a return line, does the return feed into the top of the tank? Thanks for any input. Couldnt have built this without you guy's help

Anybody?

Got some help from hoser on the last few questions. Thanks a bunch. Ive got some stuff to read when i get bored.

Dropped frame off to be sandblasted. Its getting closer to the finished stages. My buddy said he will still powdercoat it as well. Engine is rebuilt, just need to finish timing the rotary valve now that i have the degree wheel. Tom said my front suspension is done and he will be finishing up the tie rod lengthening this weekend.

With some info from MAS Racing i will be going with a set of TRX450 front hubs and disk brakes. One nice thing about that setup is that he found a set of 4+1 offset douglas wheels to run so the offset will be near what it was stock. i did not have a full set of stock frot wheels so this works out to be a great alternative. I was afraid of my aftermarket aluminum 3+2 wheels on top of the +2 YODA arms.

Currently i am on track to meet a deadline i set for myself. I want to have this thing done and at least have a few test runs in before memorial day weekend. I would like to have it broke in as well. there is a ride that i was invited to so it would be awesome to have it done.

Done any research on timing the rotary valve?

Its a cool concept being able to play with the port timing or in this case the amount of time you allow for the air/fuel charge to be sucked into the engines cases, you can also adjust when it can be sucked in, early or late in the cycle.

The real bonus is your sucking the mix right into the bottom end mostly aimed at the connecting rod, the air/fuel is taking a short cut to filling the cylinders, since you have less distance for the air/fuel to travel you have more time to suck in more air/fuel mix for more power.

Todays engines has the reed cages connected to the crankcases and reed tech has peaked and made the rotary valve idea obsolete because the difference between case reeds and rotary valve engines has closed to the point where all the extra mechanical parts required to drive the disc valve is not as desirable.

i have not done any research. i was going to install the rotary valve per the manuals specs.

Dropped frame off for powdercoat today!!!!!!! Its supposed to be done this week or next. Now just gotta find a place to recover my seat, get my front rims, and get my shocks put back together. It wont be too long and i will have a nice shiney frame sitting here.

look what ive got! as soon as i am finished with class heading home to begin assembly! only an hour to.go!

I am having trouble figuring out exactly how to wire up the relay. I know how you wire a standard relay on a car for say a set of headlights that draw lots of amps, it would be like this diagram. But if i wanted to use it for the killswitch, how exactly would i go about that? thanks

Nytro,

Like I said it has been a long time, but... Look at the relay Bazz has posted, when the relay is powered then you can have a open circut and when not powered it is open. Diagram on back of relay.

Take the Honda switch make it control the Relay (primary side). When the Honda switch is on (Honda CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is grounded) then you want the Skidoo ungrounded. Then run the ground wire of the Skidoo CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to the other side of the relay (secondary side) at the bottom and then ground one at the top, leaving the other pole open. This make them reverse from each other, this is kindof a poor mans reversing relay. Then just test with continiuity that the Skidoo is grounded in the off position and open in the on position.

Ak

Ill play with it a bit more today. just fiddling around i the shop putting the pilot back together.

Got a little done this weekend. Put my front arms on, and some of the rear suspention. Also put trans in but it is not pictured. This upcoming weekend i think i will set the Engine in and start working on getting my pipe fitted. Going to be using the arctic cat f7 pipe.

can anyone tell me what the correct Engine mount nuts are? i didnt bag or label things that great when tearing it.down. ive got spare nuts that are the same type like on the rear suspention, and ive got.some that are like the roll cage. what type bolts the Engine and trans in? thanks!

You talking the big ones that go into the transmission or the rear of the Engine or the front of the Engine?

the 2 at the front of the Engine at the rubber mounts, and the 3 on the trans with the same rubber mounts. Im specifically looking for what nuts. found the correct bolts.

Parts 32 and 39 ?

90101-727-000 BOLT, FLANGE (10X55)
94050-10000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM)

Yes, 39 is what i am specifically looking for. I found the part numbers and all but i cant find anywhere what they look like. now that i think about it, i know what the suspention nuts look like and know what the roll cage nuts look like, i shoulda just compared part numbers

They are a flanged nut and bolt look at your upper rear A arm bolt and nut...

Thanks. Are they the ones that are sorta crimped at the end to make them a lock nut? Im assuming they are

Hey Nitro,you don't know where your nuts go?
Would be easier to post some pics of your various,abundant nuts for identification and correct placement.
Nothing worse than having your nuts in the wrong places!

I just really don't feel comfortable showing everybody my nuts. Even though i may mot be sure where they go!

Worked on it a bit more this weekend. Working on building my pipe right now. I am using the arctic cat f7 pipe and i should be able to fit it in there without altering the tuned length of the pipe. We just cut it apart where the factory had welded it, and will be spinning it around slightly. It should fit pretty well. I am using the stock 670 header, with the Arctic Cat dounut on it as suggested by others. It should turn out pretty good. here are some pics. my fenders /front wheels are just hanging there in the picture

I need a new foot tub, the missing chunk is driving me nuts lol

Call AAEN tell them what you want to do for a silencer see if they will suggest something http://www.aaenperformance.com/snow_exhaust.asp

I will give them a call sometime possibly. i thought about getting the FMF universal muffler and modding it to fit a larger diameter pipe (change the inside tube)

Also, i was loooking at replacement CV Boots. I will have a $200 gift certificate to amazon from trading in a bunch of my school books. I see these on amazon, are they decent quality? Just trying to find somthing i am going to need to spend that cash on!
http://www.amazon.com/HONDA-FL400-89-90 ... CBIFE0APAU
http://www.amazon.com/HONDA-FL400-89-90 ... CBIFE0APAU

Also, for those of you that are using the seadoo carbs, what are people using for air filters? I'm trying to figure somthing out in that department.

Well, i feel kinda stupid because i still have yet to figure this out. I have the relay controled by the honda switch. when i move the switch to "run" power runs through the switch and switches the relay on. I have one side of the relay grounded and then the other side is run to the Skidoo. this makes the switch work the same way that it does without the relay. when the switch is in run the ground runs through to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). if it is off it is a closed circut. Am i doing somthing wrong? this is how i have it wired.

30 - to CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)
85 - ground
87 - ground
86 - hot from honda switch

I have one side of the honda switch hot with power from the key, and the other side i have run to '86' on the relay. So once i move the switch to the on position it alows current to flow through to the relay, turning it on in "run" and off in "off" position. SO with 87 and 30, they are open grounding the skidoo when the switch is in "run" and ungrounded in off. this is opposite of what i want and works the same way as if i were to hook the skidoo to one side of the honda switch and ground on the other.

Nytro,

You can't use that relay, you must use a relay that has one like in the picture. Your using a relay that the primary and secondary circuts mirror each other. That relay is for having larger amperage going through the secondary circut so your primary circut can much smaller. Typical horn relay.

The relay your looking for is the secondary circut comming in and being able to go one direction or another. Once the primary circut is activated then continuity is changed. Bring the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) from the 670 into the common pole (lower left on relay) and the ground and open into the opposing poles (lower right). If it works oppsite then switch these to around. Honda switch controls the primary circut (top two in Picture). Sorry I can't see what the number are in the picture or it would be easier.

Ak