Notice the RHside inner boot is a generic universal type.Very thin material and collapses on full droop...like me!

Thanks for the pictures Baz! Looks like my CVs end up in about the same spot as yours so I shouldn't have any issues. Are those CVs 930s like mine?

I collapse on full extension - - run out of blood - - that means fuel

No probs Mat.Not sure if same,so I'll post up the CV sizes OD and width to compare to yours.
Just letting my lunch settle while I sloth on the couch...then I'll go outside in the hot hot sun and vernier away for ya.
Did I mention its HOT OUT?

Only one answer to your problem...Wrong fuel...You need an immediate injection of Avgas straight into your manline!

Baahahaha --- damn - shot with my own wisdom bullet.

Manline!- lol!

Sorry Matty overslothed it!
Have included both metric and imp sizes.

Thanks, 108mm is a 930 joint.

It's been a while since i made an update. I did get the gearbox installed and have been able to take it for a couple quick rides around the house. From the little bit that I have rode, I'm fairly impressed with how well the clutch is working out of the box and the gear ratio of 9:1 seems to be perfect. I've still got a couple issues to work through. I plan to take it back apart soon to rewire everything and replace the Engine with a bit lower mile one that I've recently acquired.

I've been looking for an input shaft support bearing but havent been able to find anything that was narrow enough to fit my current setup. Currently, there is a 3/4" spacer between the clutch and gearbox, and the clutch hangs about 3/8" past the end of the shaft. This was the best place to make the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) fit and the clutch clear my muffler. Most of the bearing blocks I can find are over 1" thick and there is not enough shaft space for that unless I make the clutch hang even further off of the end of the shaft. Im not sure what other style of bearing to look for. I need to find somthing 3/4" thick or less. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

My second issue is with the shifter. I used 100% of the stock pilot shifter. The rpm gearbox uses a square post for the shift lever, so I filed the splines of the original pilot gearbox shift lever into a square. I thought this would be adequate as I can feel the detent when I shift into gear but after a couple minutes of any big or small load it will pop out of gear. Initially I thought maybe there was too much tension on the cables, but even with 1/4"+ of free play it will jump out. The only other thing I can think of is maybe my shifter needs to latch when its in gear?

I don't have many good pictures, but I'll post what i have. Should have taken more while i was in the build process because it's not easy to get detailed pictures of stuff when it's all together.

You need a holding mechanism for the gear lever. The trans will continue to pop out of gear and it will get more and more frequent too. Once you latch that shifter you’ll never have an issue.
I was hoping you could shed some light on your secondary shaft support as I would like to beef mine up a bit.. I’ll take pictures of my current/the setup I’d like to change up later. Maybe we can come up with something between the two of us.
Regards

what are you using for Engine/trans mounts, stock rubber, something else?

To the frame from trans.. just bolts.
Engine to trans hard bracket with bolts and torque snubber from trans to Engine.
Engine mount to frame bolts. Only soft mounts are from Engine to Engine mount, used the ones from sled. No cracks yet but likely could be better.

Thanks for the shifter info. I was afraid there was somthing wrong with my gearbox, the stock honda box always just stayed in gear itself.

Feel free to post pictures in this thread of your support bearing, I don't have a good idea yet. Currently have nothing but plan to build somthing before I ride it hard.

I found a round polyurethane mount and have them in all 5 original pilot mount locations. I think they may be a little stiffer than I like, so I'm on the lookout for a rubber mount that would replace them.

Shifter.. “holder”, just a piece of bent metal. That I can shift forward without thinking about it. Reverse requires a slight push of the back of my wrist to push away from shifter.. I kept adding “mig snot” to the holder until it held well and disengaged nearly effortlessly... almost building a ramp on bracket so when pushing forward it just slid in.
Hopes this helps.
I tried many different things before this lever holder and this one just plain works. The 700 power plant liked to pop out of forward often.

Here is my setup, it holds forward great, reverse has no lock and it’s a pain to keep in gear.

thanks for the ideas. Im going to try and come up with something to work with the stock shifter if i can. I also sent Dan at RPM an email around the same time i posted here and he sounded concerned that it would jump out of gear and didnt mention needing a latch for my shifter when i asked.

I look forward to reading his cure for this.

I hope no one minds a bit of constructive criticism here.
Looking at some of those pics I see a problem -- there are no detents holding the gear shifter in place.
This may be why go oddy and Rppjr had to make "latches".
If you look at their shifters you will see no detent system and the shifters are long and heavy. The "G" forces on these sticks will be huge when you hit a hole or do a jump. This will pull it out of gear.
If you look at the Honda shifter you will notice it is very short and made of aluminum and plastic -- think G forces here. Inside the stock shifter is a detent lock. You have to lift the shifter up to put it in gear and it then bumps up against a stop internally. Also to go into reverse you have to lift the shifter a bit higher to clear a tab. This helps prevent you from accidentally putting it into reverse when you are searching for neutral.
Since nitro5 is going to use the stock shifter I would drill a hole in the foreword position so that the shifter can "lock in" when you let go of the handle. Maybe do it for reverse too ??

Always fee free to post comments.
The shifter I had before was a plane ole light duty rod and it would jump out of gear. I replaced with a larger cable and it jumped out less, added another cable for a push pull system and it reduced again. Then the large shifter was added with lock and no more slip I could go back to the single cable and small rod now with just the lock but at this time it works and it’ll stay for the time being.

Somthing Dan wanted me to try was removing my shifter setup and then go for a ride to see if it would stay in gear or not. This would at least tell me if, like you are saying, the shifter is pulling it out of gear or there are other issues inside the gearbox. Easier said than done for me, i cant just jump out and put the thing back into gear manually.


I like your idea for a latch on the stock shifter. Part of the problem with mine is it is frozen in the "up" position. I may take it apart today and see what i can come up with.

Yeah I can see that it would be a bit tough for you to just jump out and reset it.
If your shifter is frozen in the up position then it has to be taken apart and cleaned.
The issue is going to be that little pin on the nut that fits inside that slot on the shaft.
That little pin is almost impossible to grab and pull back so that you can get it all apart.
It's the little silver pin on the nut in that pic I posted. It will be a job for sure.
On a positive note I think drilling another hole in the foreword position for the handle to lock into when in foreword will be an answer to your problem. Also do one for reverse. They have to be drilled accurate and not some hack n whack show.
In my opinion if you were using the stock oddy shifter and your gearbox is jumping out of gear then your gearbox has an issue but you may be able to use the shifter to lock it in gear. I think the detent in the gearbox needs attention and that's why it jumps out.
Just my opinions.

Yeah I've had them apart before in my fl350 days, not fun to get them free again. It never let me down with the stock gearbox so I never bothered to fix it.

After my first ride the detent didnt feel as sharp if that makes any sense. Next time I have someone to come tow me back in I plan to take all the shifter cables off and go for a ride. I would have thought that with as much free play as I could get in the cables that it would have stayed in gear unless somthing was wrong.

if you don't have the stock pilot trans then your probably not using the neutral safety, couldn't you just put it in gear then start it?