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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:01 pm
Posts: 379
Location: Monette Ar
thanks. I plan to mount mine from the cage right now. I would like to make it so that it would be possible to go back stock if i wanted to.

I really like how yours turned out. i went with a tank 4" more narrow to try and keep it more in the cage.

did you ditch the oil injection?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
ChrisV wrote:
thanks. I plan to mount mine from the cage right now. I would like to make it so that it would be possible to go back stock if i wanted to.

I really like how yours turned out. i went with a tank 4" more narrow to try and keep it more in the cage.

did you ditch the oil injection?


Nope. Running oil injection. I really like being able to run straight gas. Really helps on trail rides. I can just use Tue gas other guys pack. The 670 is thirsty lol


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:01 pm
Posts: 379
Location: Monette Ar
I do need one pic as i think i may be missing a part. I need a pic of the throttle cable where it connects the carb. I don't think think i have the bracket where the cable/ adjustment nut mount.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:33 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
ChrisV wrote:
I do need one pic as i think i may be missing a part. I need a pic of the throttle cable where it connects the carb. I don't think think i have the bracket where the cable/ adjustment nut mount.


This help? I ended up making my own from a piece of flat aluminum to get the cable in a slightly different spot than the stock cable bracked allowed.

Here is a link to my pilot picture album http://s23.photobucket.com/user/nitrosp ... ma%20Pilot


Attachments:
File comment: Seadoo
tmp_2011-12-30_19-54-29_26.jpg~320x480104403484.jpeg
tmp_2011-12-30_19-54-29_26.jpg~320x480104403484.jpeg [ 25.19 KiB | Viewed 2146 times ]
File comment: Mine. Simple flat aluminum piece with a slight twist. Needed it to come from bottom to clear oil tank
tmp_2012-12-16_22-08-27_688.jpg~320x4802064148558.jpeg
tmp_2012-12-16_22-08-27_688.jpg~320x4802064148558.jpeg [ 23.1 KiB | Viewed 2146 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:01 pm
Posts: 379
Location: Monette Ar
nitrosport_5 wrote:

Since there is so many people doing rotax or sled conversions, im wondering if it would be worthwile to find someone who can make a new input shaft to fit a standard sled driven clutch and see what it would cost to do a group buy on them. I know they have been made before but i forget who. Would make clutching quite a bit easier and almost infinately adjustable since the pilot driven is really what hinders us at the moment.




i have a cousin that works in an industrial machine shop that said he could make one. he just needs to know what to make and what to make it out of.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 37
Location: New Jersey
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 37
Location: New Jersey
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


Thanks for the response, your ride is sweet as I watched the YouTube vid but I think 90 or so HP will be fine with me and a little easier on the drivetrain, plus a big improvement over the 38HP stock. I hope to buy Farr's kit in February or March and hope he has a set of instructions ready.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
old geezer wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


Thanks for the response, your ride is sweet as I watched the YouTube vid but I think 90 or so HP will be fine with me and a little easier on the drivetrain, plus a big improvement over the 38HP stock. I hope to buy Farr's kit in February or March and hope he has a set of instructions ready.
Thanks


Oh yeah the 583 will work awesome. I've got a 570 yamaha in my fl350 odyssey with roughy 85hp and its very fun as well. Can't go wrong with any twin!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 7:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
G'Day Matt,no new vids for yonks mate!
C'mon slacker! ...Need some Matt BLOCK vids yeah? :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Man I wish. I've been itching to get the damn thing out. Been too cold and I've been busy. Was going to take the week of thanksgiving and go riding my by sister did not like that idea.. So got stuck at home with family... Lame. Would have much rather spent thanksgiving in my pilot haha.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 37
Location: New Jersey
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


I just purchased the 583 kit from Farr and I'm still confused on the wiring, do you think if I get a wiring harness from a sled it would help? Like you said I would rather not cut up the pilot harness if I don't have too! Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
old geezer wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


I just purchased the 583 kit from Farr and I'm still confused on the wiring, do you think if I get a wiring harness from a sled it would help? Like you said I would rather not cut up the pilot harness if I don't have too! Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.



No i don't think a sled harness would help you. the 583 rotax Engine is stand alone in the way that it runs. you only need to add the charging system wiring and the kill switch in order to make everything function.

The rotax stator has 2 yellow and a black wire in 1 plug coming out of it. those need to go into the white plug of the pilot regulator. this will use the pilot regulator to charge the battery just like the pilot Engine. The black wire i believe is a ground and i don't think it should be hooked up to the pilot regulator. I could be wrong but you should ask someone that has done it this way before. Maybe start a new thread asking about rotax wiring help. I made my own wire harness using a sled harness, lots of extra wire, and the sled regulator. basicly a 100% custom wire harness. quite a bit more work.

then you need to hook up your kill wire from the pilot to the rotax. The pilot kill wire is black with a white stripe. On the rotax, i forget exactly the color. I believe it is either black with a white or a yellow stripe. If you tape the pilot kill wire direct into the sled kill wire, your kill switch will work. but work backwards. If you wire in a relay you can make it function exactly like it should.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 37
Location: New Jersey
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
old geezer wrote:
Can you tell me how it was to wire as I'm talking to Farr about their 583 Rave kit and had questions about the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), Volt reg.,
starter, kill switch and ignition wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What's the HP on that 670 any way and is it the same size as the 583 and doesn't require any cutting?
Thanks


I used all of the sled piece and built my own wire harness. The rotax is pretty stand alone, you have to wire the kill switch into your old wire harness and the stator to the voltage regulator and you are good to go. Pilot harness can be reused but I prefer to keep stock harness In 1 piece and build my own custom. 670 I think is slightly wider than a 583. It fits just fine but would require a frame modification to use the pull starter. My 670HO puts out 125hp.


I just purchased the 583 kit from Farr and I'm still confused on the wiring, do you think if I get a wiring harness from a sled it would help? Like you said I would rather not cut up the pilot harness if I don't have too! Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.



No i don't think a sled harness would help you. the 583 rotax Engine is stand alone in the way that it runs. you only need to add the charging system wiring and the kill switch in order to make everything function.

The rotax stator has 2 yellow and a black wire in 1 plug coming out of it. those need to go into the white plug of the pilot regulator. this will use the pilot regulator to charge the battery just like the pilot Engine. The black wire i believe is a ground and i don't think it should be hooked up to the pilot regulator. I could be wrong but you should ask someone that has done it this way before. Maybe start a new thread asking about rotax wiring help. I made my own wire harness using a sled harness, lots of extra wire, and the sled regulator. basicly a 100% custom wire harness. quite a bit more work.

then you need to hook up your kill wire from the pilot to the rotax. The pilot kill wire is black with a white stripe. On the rotax, i forget exactly the color. I believe it is either black with a white or a yellow stripe. If you tape the pilot kill wire direct into the sled kill wire, your kill switch will work. but work backwards. If you wire in a relay you can make it function exactly like it should.



Thanks for your response as this is the first time I'll be doing this and have questions on the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), coils and regulator(maybe use the pilot regulator like you said) but I think your right about starting a new thread. I wish Farr would provide a little more info on the kit but they don't.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 37
Location: New Jersey
nitrosport_5 wrote:
ChrisV wrote:
I do need one pic as i think i may be missing a part. I need a pic of the throttle cable where it connects the carb. I don't think think i have the bracket where the cable/ adjustment nut mount.


This help? I ended up making my own from a piece of flat aluminum to get the cable in a slightly different spot than the stock cable bracked allowed.

Here is a link to my pilot picture album http://s23.photobucket.com/user/nitrosp ... ma%20Pilot


I received a Seadoo set up like that for my 583 kit but I was wondering if it's the correct size as the carbs are not marked at all then there's all these fuel line connection, 2 on one carb and 3 on the other and how do I know which carb goes on what side as I've heard they are jetted differently. But my real question is how do I know the set up isn't off a 670 and might be too much fuel for the 583.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
Hey Nitro,
read the entire thread, moral of the story, if it's not running right or idling, check for vacuum leaks and carb sync :-)
I was hoping to find out what you ended up with on your final jetting.


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