Hello I'm decking cylinders today just one to start
looking to get the squish closer this (A) cylinder is going on all stock carb & pipe is all stock
piston is a 80mm wiseco squish came in at .086 with no head gasket with gasket it would of been .126 1/8"

This going to be a test so I would Advise that I'm not a Pro so if you do this it will be at your ((own Risk))

going to slab .040 off the top of the cylinder overall height from base to top of cylinder is 4.992 or 126.8mm this is stock height

thanks speed

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You sure have some cool toys Speed! Interested in how it turns out,keep us posted!

Come on lotto! I want a shop like his he is SO lucky I don't live closer I would be at his shop often just watching the master at work

What are you doing for heads once decked your going to have to change the domes you know, at least increase the bowl volume.

MAybe check the actual volume like I did here then have adnoh run the numbers?
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=8599&start=100

Well By Math of the stock fl350 head It cc out to 38.8853 cc

now cylinder is 80mm dia. and I took off .040 inch's thick this cc out to 5.1069cc

I going to do a compression check with stock gasket and with out first to see what I come up with

I have run a stock fl350 with out a head gasket before with out problems but well see

need to find the formula to compute compression ratio by Math
Calculator for 2 stroke Compression Ratio

found thishttp://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

If you want to take the formulas with you and put them in your tool box, here they are. 16.387 is a number than converts cubic inches to cc's.
Displacement = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Stroke x 16.387
Head Gasket space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Gasket thickness x 16.387064
Deck Height space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Deck Height x 16.387064
Compressed Volume = Head Gasket space + Deck Height space + Piston Top volume + Combustion chamber volume
Uncompressed Volume = Compressed Volume + Displacement
Compression Ratio = Uncompressed volume ÷ Compressed volume


speed

Have all kinds of info

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/Measuring_D ... lation.htm

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/uccr.htm

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/How2Calcula ... ession.htm

This what your looking for?

Yes I'm Quoting my Self

did a test compression test that is
on the cylinder above (A)

stock head no gasket 200psi Wow
stock head stock gasket .040 thick 160psi still good
stock head two stock head gaskets = .095 thick 140 psi still good this is as close to stock fl350 from Honda

my need to cut stock head to bring down psi

what you guy's think 160psi too much for 94 octane

Thanks SpeedChaser

Any updates on this project, did adnoh ever run the numbers and see what the compression ratio ended up being?

I have a stock FL350 cylinder and head it will be a 80mm bore I want to close up the squish and continue to run the stock head, I want to bring up the compression ratio where it will still work good with 91-93 octane, this cylinder will also be hoserized I need to find my notes and template for the exhaust port, all the factory casting flaws will be removed and some work done on the transfer port tunnels, this is not going to be a full out all race build but a solid increase in HP and torque bottom to top so it will work really well with a stock pipe/carb.

well this is in use by my son with stock pipe stock carburetor
and it will out pull my ride with a stock carburetor and dg pipe
still holding 157 psi with about 40 gal of mixed gas threw it

need to look threw my notes to make sure the above mod are the same

speedchaser

You ever figure out the compression ratio for this setup and check the final squish clearances I would like to get this all figured out?

I have a few FL350 cylinders I would like to hoserize by removing material off the top of the cylinder (decking) so I can tighten up the squish clearance on a stock head and slightly raise the static compression to boost performance, this with a reshaped and wider exhaust port should bring up the fun factor, better throttle response, more HP and torque from bottom to top and work well from all stock to a Odyssey with a bigger carb, after market pipe and drive clutch, noticeable gains everywhere.

Since I will be adding more heat to the Engine because of the increase in power (more power more heat) especially when going to a after market drive clutch where the RPM's are increased I want to liquid cool the cylinder something like done in the pics below.

Also need to figure out a affordable or cost efficient way to liquid cool the stock head have you given any thoughts to this?

One thing I noticed and found really interesting was during my project FL350 http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10537 first few heat cycles while checking for the Engine heat I noticed I could hold my hand on the outside edges or top of the head but could NOT hold my hand on the cylinder above the exhaust port to the top of the cylinder, the cylinder heats up hotter much faster than the head, with more surface area on the cylinder wall than the head heat is transferring faster to the cylinder than the head, SO I am thinking modify a cylinder as described above, install it on a Odyssey with the stock head, use a Banshee radiator to cool the cylinder jacket by thermosyphon (no water pump) and no fan on the radiator, take it out run the shit out of it see if it over heats.

Over heat = feel any noticeable loss of power, usually the first noticed is the throttle response is not a sharp or crisp as it was when you first started running it hard, throttle response will diminish or flatten out almost like it is when the Engine is cold and you first take off running it hard trying to get the Engine cleaned out and up to full operating temps, after you feel a loss in throttle response comes a power loss over all you feel the Engine has less power, for example you find a big long tall hill and you repeatedly keep climbing it as the Engine gets close to running hot or over heating you notice it does not climb the same hill as fast almost feels lazier than past runs.

The great thing about liquid cooling is you have a little bit of a reservoir that can absorb excess heat and carry it away from the heat source great for when your repeatedly climbing the tall hill as I gave in the example above or something similar.

Thoughts on any of this?