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The road to perfection....... http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=110&t=312 |
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Author: | litespeed [ Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:33 pm ] |
Post subject: | The road to perfection....... |
Offically last week I started the Drakart rehab, I'm going to make it better than it was before. Stronger, faster, quieter and less shakie! (didn't know how to word that last one!) So far I have only dissmanteled and went to the drawing board. The things I need to do are: 1) Install new Corbeau suspension seat------For comfort and SAFETY! 2) Install new Team Tech harness------------For comfort and SAFETY! 3) Install used Ski-Doo motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount---------For Comfort and vibration issues! 4) Install and fab a mount for a tach---------For clutch tuning! 5) Add additional gussets to frame-----------For ridgidity and safety, mainly mine! 6) New rear links and hiems------------------The originals are worn out! 7)General maintinence------------------------I have another year of major riding to do! Any of you professional Fabracators feel free to stop on by and help a POOA brother out, I specialize in free room and board, whilst (stoner!) your working! |
Author: | hoser [ Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:54 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Looks good cant wait to see pictures as you progress, hope you have it all done by the first riding trip. |
Author: | Drakman [ Thu Feb 26, 2004 12:28 am ] |
Post subject: | |
If you're going to do all of that, you should do the one piece axles! |
Author: | litespeed [ Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
What are you talking about? One piece axles? Like the ones on the two seaters? |
Author: | Drakman [ Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:49 pm ] | ||
Post subject: | |||
This is the way Alain is now doing the single seaters. The axle is larger diameter that the outer part of the old one and the whole thing looks really strong.
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Author: | Drakman [ Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:55 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Tom, Two other things to think about while you're doing this. First, since the Engine will now be allowed to rock around due to the softer mounts, you will need to do a "brace" like device between the drive and driven clutches to avoid having them become mis-aligned at different speeds due to torque twist. Second, notice the boot "protectors" that Alain put on the blue frame Drak, we both need these. |
Author: | litespeed [ Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Where did you get these new pictures from? He E-mail it/them to you? Any more? I'm not sure that I want to re-engineer the whole car, just parts of it! I do see he added larger mounts to the rear lower links, I'd love to know all the new improvements/changes that have been made! |
Author: | Drakman [ Fri Feb 27, 2004 11:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I don't know about the rear mount size. Here is the batch of photos he sent me. |
Author: | litespeed [ Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:40 pm ] | |||||||
Post subject: | The saga continues! | |||||||
Finally got the Drak taken completely apart. Good news: None yet! Bad news: 1) Another frame crack! 2) motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount is going to be tuff! 3) Can't get the clutch off! Over one hour of heat and impact wrench! CRAP! 4) Really dirty, she needs a good cleaning! Pictures!
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Author: | hoser [ Wed Mar 03, 2004 8:33 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Part of the problem is the drakart morons cant weld the pictures drakman provided are proof enough, see the problem is any mutt that runs out and buys a mig welder thinks he can weld when he cant here you see where some DUMBASS is stacking up a bunch of tack welds haha why? because they cant weld probably burn through or gob it on when they hold the trigger for more than 2 seconds at a time, what a shame you pay 20,000 for a car that was welded together by what looks like something done by a highschool kid haha I can teach my mom to weld like that in 20 minutes! When you see something put together with tack welds turn and RUN the other direction haha I would start your project with a pressure washer to clean things up I would also buy a bunch of them pre made gussets from the chassis shop and weld in at every tube joint location... |
Author: | minibuggyhq [ Fri Mar 05, 2004 2:14 am ] |
Post subject: | are you sure that not tig welded? |
is that tig welded not mig welded |
Author: | hoser [ Fri Mar 05, 2004 8:16 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: are you sure that not tig welded? |
minibuggyhq wrote: is that tig welded not mig welded
No its NOT tig welds trust me I have made thousands of, tig, mig, stick and torch welds over the past 30 years, its a poor mig weld, Tig don't leave a little dimple or crater in the middle if each tach weld like the mig tack welds do, but lets say they are Tig welds they still are incomplete they are the perfect example of what NOT to do or how NOT to weld, this is a perfect example of lack of fusion, incorrect profile, incomplete penetration a QC welding inspector would 'look' that weld out from about 15 feet away haha |
Author: | dhjunkie [ Fri Mar 05, 2004 12:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
A welding inspector would fail the weld anyways. MIG welding is NOT structural welding, too much weld inclusion. There is only one form of structural MIG welding and generally we cannot afford that type of machine or have the power requirements. It is called metal arc spraying, the machine is a 480V mig welder, pushing huge diameter flux cored wire, at an extremely high amperage. All you hear is the hiss of electricity and a form of RAPE metal fusion. But, yes that is a piss poor form of welding on a chassis tube. Tack welding is fine for light guage sheet metal, where you want to keep warpage to a minimum, but definitly not OK where you need 100% penetration of weld and substrate to make a strong joint. |
Author: | dhjunkie [ Sat Mar 06, 2004 6:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | Litespeed--- I need a picture |
By any chance you get your clutch off? If so I need a picture of the stationary sheath and the way the starter ring gear mounts. Need to know if it is a dedicated sheath or if a non electric start clutch will work (like mine). |
Author: | litespeed [ Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
No it is not off, ((Bad Word)) electric impact doesn't have the nuts to do it even with heat! :-( All the clutches are the same, the ring gear just bolts up to the holes in the back! |
Author: | dhjunkie [ Sat Mar 06, 2004 10:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
mine is flat and not tapped, but there are holes that are about 3/16" deep. This is why I am wondering if there are different sheaths Your impressive Litespeed you almost have inspired me to start building my car. |
Author: | litespeed [ Sat Mar 06, 2004 11:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
haha haha You said, "sheaths!" haha Mine has about 8 to 10 (didn't count!) short bolts that hold the ring gear on. I'll take a side picture tomorrow if you want! |
Author: | hoser [ Sun Mar 07, 2004 10:18 am ] |
Post subject: | |
dhjunkie wrote: A welding inspector would fail the weld anyways. MIG welding is NOT structural welding, too much weld inclusion. There is only one form of structural MIG welding and generally we cannot afford that type of machine or have the power requirements. It is called metal arc spraying, the machine is a 480V mig welder, pushing huge diameter flux cored wire, at an extremely high amperage. All you hear is the hiss of electricity and a form of RAPE metal fusion.
But, yes that is a piss poor form of welding on a chassis tube. Tack welding is fine for light guage sheet metal, where you want to keep warpage to a minimum, but definitly not OK where you need 100% penetration of weld and substrate to make a strong joint. Mig welding is strong enough if done correctly, COOR and SODA accepted mig welding on the frames but they also did a visual inspection of the welds and if they didnt look right you didnt pass inspection and didnt race, your right about it being a dirty weld but most tig welding don't remove the mill scale (stuff that makes steel look gray or black) before welding they just cut, notch, fit up and weld the joint (bike/car building TV shows omit this too) I use mig but the weld affected area isis cleaned up with a sanding disc before welding I also make complete welds by holding the trigger on for the complete weld not turning it on and off or by depositing a series of tack welds .... What I find strange is it is faster to make a full weld than to make a row of spot welds then again you would have to know how to weld first haha You can spray transfer using a mig if you turn up the heat or slow the wire down enough... |
Author: | litespeed [ Sat Mar 13, 2004 6:47 pm ] | |||||||||||||
Post subject: | ||||||||||||||
Where I am now. I had a fab shop do the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount brackets since I have no real equiptment (bending, shearing and forming equiptment!) And I am in the process of adding support to thier work. Plus I am learning to weld with a Mig, I am/was certified stick but never did any mig. I piddled with the flux core and yesterday I got the shielding gas for the welder. What a difference in weld look and penatration
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Author: | hoser [ Sat Mar 13, 2004 6:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
You change polarity when switching from flux core to bottle murray? |
Author: | dhjunkie [ Sat Mar 13, 2004 7:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Looking good. you prolly need to turn up the heat or slow the wire and application speed down a bit. But it should work a hell of a lot better than factory |
Author: | litespeed [ Sat Mar 27, 2004 11:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
New pictures added in the Pilotodyssey.com pictures section. http://www.pilotodyssey.com/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=17 |
Author: | hoser [ Sun Mar 28, 2004 12:03 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Looking good all them gussets should help a bunch, I would add another diagonal tube behind your head to make it a X, hope Engine mount takes care of some of the vibration you ever get the strut that goes between the Engine and trans? |
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