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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3173
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
I'm posting this to help guys with this particular problem or in case they have a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) case with wallered out bearing seats, or other instance where the bearing has spun in its seat and wore it to where the bearing will no longer fit tight. You can use my post to decide whether you want to perform the same procedure on your bearing seat. Anyhow after finding my front wheels loose and wobbly, I realized a previous owner installed new inner bearings on the front brake hubs, but, I beleive his old bearings locked up, therefore spun inside the hub. They wore about .005 inch's on either side of the bearing inside the hub. That is where my wobbliness was coming from. I was going to use bearing shim stock but the Allied Bearing Company here in OKC only stocked .008" and up, I suppose I could have got thinner stock from somewhere else or just kept my eyes peeled for a couple of used hubs but I decided to perform this experiment instead. After researching Loctites 620 cylindrical fitting(bearing) bonding compound, I decided to try to "fill in the gap" with the Loctite. After cussing and discussing this idea with the Allied Bearing Company's counter help, I was told the Loctite 620 will fill in up to a .010" gap and still retain its rated strenghts and temperature withstandings, hmmmm. Anyhow, pic 610 shows one of my hubs, the other hub looks the same but with a little less wear. Pic 617 shows actual OD of a Honda bearing which is 1.654". Pic 619 shows ID of worn hub to be 1.664", for a difference of .010". I figure since the bearing clearance will be about .005" on each side of the bearing I should be within the .010" of Loctites 620 limits. After applying the Loctite compound to the bearing and hub, then installing the bearing and seal. I immediately mounted the hub on the axle and torqued to spec. I was not sure how to properly align the bearing in the center of the hub so I let the axle define this after installing the hub. I let the Loctite compound set up for about 10 days mainly because I was getting rained out everytime I decided to run the Odyssey for its test run. Anyhow after about 45 minutes of hard riding, the "fix" is still intact. If I remember I will post again after more ride time. No more wobbly wheels. :-) and only cost about 10 clams to fix. Take this bearing "fix" with a grain and perform at your own risk. I would like anyones input as to whether this "fix" would stand up inside an motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) or otherwise. Here is a link to Loctite 620 data sheet http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/620-EN.PDF


Attachments:
P1000614.jpg
P1000614.jpg [ 169.47 KiB | Viewed 816 times ]
File comment: Pic shows the wear in the bearing seat
1.jpg
1.jpg [ 48.9 KiB | Viewed 617 times ]
File comment: This pic shows taking measurement from worn hub
2.jpg
2.jpg [ 52.87 KiB | Viewed 617 times ]
File comment: This pic shows the actual measurement of how much the hub was worn.
3.jpg
3.jpg [ 33.56 KiB | Viewed 617 times ]
File comment: This pic show a Honda bearings OD
4.jpg
4.jpg [ 54.33 KiB | Viewed 617 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3173
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
more pics


Attachments:
File comment: this pic shows Loctite application
P1000625.jpg
P1000625.jpg [ 149.41 KiB | Viewed 816 times ]
File comment: this pic shows bearing installed and excessive loctite compound cleaned and ready for seal installation
5.jpg
5.jpg [ 54.27 KiB | Viewed 616 times ]
File comment: seal installed
6.jpg
6.jpg [ 51.69 KiB | Viewed 616 times ]
File comment: hub installed and axle nut torqued
7.jpg
7.jpg [ 52.57 KiB | Viewed 616 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I don't guess it would matter but how you know it is centered? Not really enough clearance to matter...


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
I don't guess it would matter but how you know it is centered? Not really enough clearance to matter...


My guess is if it was not centered you cold feel it at high speeds?

Wonder if Speedchaser could bore out the hub slightly and press in a insert to save the hub, just a thought as these parts are becoming more rare each day.

Keep us updated if you run into any problems.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1036
Location: CT
You could have used a feeler gauge to fill the gap and used some of the sleeve and beaing mount to hold it all together. That stuff is very good. I've seen many hacks use it where it shouldn't be used and all was well. (meaning gaps well in excess of .010".


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
I don't guess it would matter but how you know it is centered? Not really enough clearance to matter...


My guess is if it was not centered you cold feel it at high speeds?

Wonder if Speedchaser could bore out the hub slightly and press in a insert to save the hub, just a thought as these parts are becoming more rare each day.

Keep us updated if you run into any problems.


And what about the drum surface area??? add to that?


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3173
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Using the feeler gauge would give you the perfect fit. My tests were performed in a big field in front of my house, I can hit top speed but then I run out of field so I have to slow down, not really enough time to feel any vibration in the steering wheel and field is pretty choppy. I am hoping that I wont have anymore vibration than if my tires were slightly outta balance and since we don't balance our tires..?? I have another place to ride that is concrete and I can open up the throttle, I might get a better feel for vibration on the concrete and I will post the outcome then.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3173
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Turbotexas wrote:
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
I don't guess it would matter but how you know it is centered? Not really enough clearance to matter...


My guess is if it was not centered you cold feel it at high speeds?

Wonder if Speedchaser could bore out the hub slightly and press in a insert to save the hub, just a thought as these parts are becoming more rare each day.

Keep us updated if you run into any problems.


And what about the drum surface area??? add to that?


Do you want to add to the drum brake shoe surface area, are you running outta meat?? I would think the adjusters could compensate for this but only to a certain point. Might have to start another thread about that and get speedchaser to respond about that, BTW hows your front a-arm woes coming?


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5523
Location: New Jersey
I have used years ago in my Ford 9 inch rears where the outer bearing ride on the axle housing CATEPILLAR bonding agent-stuff works great, it is a 2 liquid mix-worked great on races to hold them inside the axle housings, never loosened up for the life of the rear.I would imagine it can be used in this application as well.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5247
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
stix9567 wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
hoser wrote:
Turbotexas wrote:
I don't guess it would matter but how you know it is centered? Not really enough clearance to matter...


My guess is if it was not centered you cold feel it at high speeds?

Wonder if Speedchaser could bore out the hub slightly and press in a insert to save the hub, just a thought as these parts are becoming more rare each day.

Keep us updated if you run into any problems.


And what about the drum surface area??? add to that?


Do you want to add to the drum brake shoe surface area, are you running outta meat?? I would think the adjusters could compensate for this but only to a certain point. Might have to start another thread about that and get speedchaser to respond about that, BTW hows your front a-arm woes coming?


I bent the bent tab enough to test the master cylinder and then stored everything away... I am in KS now headed to CA I need to stay gone a few weeks to get bills caught up...


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 2856
Location: Wichita ks
Nice work. I read the data sheet and it looks like a good product for the application. I did notice it recomended the proper cleaner and the effect on cure time. It even provided a disassembly method. Looks like I will be adding that to the tool box. Thanks. Now go test it out on a UTV for impact testing. I have noticed that theres been a rival of short starting to brew between the UTV and Pilot/Odyssey drivers. This may be fun and add fuel for camp fire bull. May be time to make all wheel drive pilot with twin fuel injcted four stroke with big bummpers.

Does the pilot hubs fit the odyssey ? Would the pilot brake drum fit the odyssey hub ?

Turbo in Kansas. Better go check the gates.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3173
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Update, yes its been a while, I have since sold this FL350. I had to go back to see when I posted this and when i sold this fl350. I ran this mod for a little over a year at Little Sahara here in Oklahoma, and just tooling around the field out front. Put it through the test with about 20 hours on the mod and wheels never got side to side play after the mod. So I would say this is a viable modification.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:01 pm
Posts: 379
Location: Monette Ar
i have seen this done on 250r crank bearings and it worked fine for atleast a year of hard riding.


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