Some of my brake parts came in today, one part is a rotor that goes on the opposite side of the driven. My question is the old one which is warped terrible had the holes in it to help cool, the new one doesn’t. I was going to bolt the rotor to a piece of metal then put it in my drill Press vice, line everything up and drill the new holes. Was just going to lay one on top of the other to copy where the holes would go. The rotors according to the manufacturer are made of heat treated stress relieved steel. Or should I just bolt the thing on and go from there?
Also has anyone seen a 90degree caliper fitting with this nipple on the end before. See last pic.

There is a lot of info floating around about drilled and slotted rotors, quite a bit on a the negative side....
Drilling and slotting can increase risk of cracking and also reduces contact area, the weight reduction and cooling gained are minimal... I am no expert, only reporting what I’ve read, the effort may not be worth the risk/possible gains.

Here is a take it or leave it article, of course most of the info out there is about big heavy cars and not little buggies.
I drilled a rotor or two in the garage too, looks cool as hell.

https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/truth ... ke-rotors/

Great article, lots of great information. I’m just going to bolt it on and go, once I replace the caliper. It’s frozen solid as well as the spare that came with the buggy. Anybody got an early 80’s front caliper off of a Honda Goldwing?

Yes.
I believe that is an AN or aeroquip fitting for a Teflon lined brake hose.
Your brake lines are Teflon lined.

You also commented about your seized brake calipers.
You can't rebuild them ??
I find that hard to believe even if they are seized.

Edit: As for the drilling of the rotors I think it is your choice. My race car rotors would crack between the drill holes and I have oddy rotors on my shelf with cracks as well. If you want I can post a pic. I believe the original reason for drilling is cooling and also for relieving gas build up between the pad and rotor during very hard braking.

I agree with C O, That fitting is the end of a braided line or something similar.

One of the original steel braided lines was partially crushed. I bought new ones and when I took it apart these were the fittings on the caliper side.
CO the pistons won’t come out of the calipers. I let them soak in penetrating oil, hit them with air through the banjo bolt hole and they just wont budge. Used ones are around 50$ so it’s not to expensive. One caliper is larger than the other and I believe that is what “dished” the rotor. It looks like a plate. The Goldwing Aspencade had a larger rear rotor than the other model of goldwings, so I will figure it out and get the correct one. Honda calipers are normally very forgiving but these two were covered in rust originally.
Thanks for all the info on the rotor, again I’m just going to bolt it on and go from there.

Could you post the link and or caliper information on the ones you are looking at?
Thank you.

There is no link, I’m going off what the previous owner told me. When I google 81-83 Honda Goldwing two different calipers show up. A larger one with a 25 stamped on the back (Aspencade) and another with a 30 stamping (interstate model). There is a semi-custom?? Mount made for it to attach to the transmission. Here are a few pictures.

it might be worth a shot trying to move the caliper pistons with hydraulic force, you could hook them up to a brake with a foot peddle for more pressure than you would get from the small master cylinders on the buggy.

Very cool and much appreciate.

If you dished a rotor, it's pretty likely the stuck caliper caused it. Or it wasn't sliding on the mount, this would push the rotor when you hit the brakes. It looks like you have enough room t use a 4 caliper piston. That way you would be squeezing the rotor.

I agree with Kuma here.
I was gona post almost that exact thing last night but forgot. I was thinking about a grease gun though.
An air/hydraulic unit puts out about 8000 to 10000 psi pressure and would be the best choice. A grease gun puts out about 3000 psi. I had hydraulic gauges for the front and rear brakes on my race car. I used them to set my brake bias. At 600 psi my brakes locked up.
You could use a grease gun if you don't have an air/hydraulic pump.
You would have to make some hose rigging for this job but those pistons WILL come out.
The only issue would be that one piston will pop out first and then you got an open hole. Once that happens you have to stuff it in the hole again and hold it some spacers until you get the other one out. If you do the grease gun thing (last choice) your kind of beat if it don't work because every cavity will be full of grease.

He could put a block of wood in there so the pistons don't come all the way out. Once they have moved 90% of the way out he should be able to remove them with a pair of pliers.

Do you own a pipe bender ??
Use the pump from that.



Good idea.

Wilwood should have some calipers for ya but you might have to fab a new bracket or drill a new hole.

Almost any 2003 and newer sportbike will have 4 piston calipers. A little newer and they even have radial mounted calipers. Super cheap used.

No pipe bender, just normal stuff. One of the pistons is moving so more penetrating oil and some time. I have a setup made so I can hook air up to it and try and push the pistons out. If all else fails the calipers are pretty cheap on eBay. I had to order different banjo bolts as I don’t think the others would seal in the new lines. The kit to rebuild the master cylinder still isn’t in either. I got all new brake lines run so one more thing off the list. I was Going to do the wiring harness next, Ive seen rats nests with more order. All new switches/wire,connectors. It’s one of those than ran when it was parked a decade ago.

The only problem with air is you don't really have much power there.
Home compressors only put out about 100-120 psi pressure. That ain't much.