In line to start working on...
02 Triple E desert version

Bad news the output shaft cracked at the circlip groove. Previous owner didn’t install the support and it took out the shaft, case and some gears.

Can you weld up that case and re-machine ??
Shaft can be made.
How bad the gears ?? Possibly get new ones made at Linngear or Rushgear ??
http://www.linngear.com/
https://www.rushgears.com/

Spoke with Dan Roberto at rpm trans. He said the case can be fixed, pretty sure I’ve found most of the parts needed.

Looking at those gears ------ they are dog ring style gears ----- the same kind found in my Lola T-360 formula race car with a Hewland transmission that I had. If you look close at those gears, the dogs are actually cut at an angle on the ends. This bevel is what holds it and the dog ring together and prevents the transmission from jumping out of gear. Every race or two I would have to replace a gear on my race car because it would jump out of gear or got smashed. They were very expensive. What I ended up doing was taking my damaged gears to a grinding shop and getting them to re-grind the angle on that dog. You can also re-grind the dog ring as well. The Hewland gears were cut at a 7' angle. Not sure what yours are but try to find out because you never know when you need that information. I know that this is not your issue right now but I just thought I would mention it.

Thanks for the info CO. My other trans similar to this also ate those gears. Did yours have the brass inserts? In the pick you can see they are pretty beat up as well.
Bob

No they did not have brass inserts. The Hewland gearbox uses needle bearings.

I really dislike that brass bushing design. I think it is very poor. As soon as that brass wears it's gona be a problem. Needle bearings don't wear out like that brass but they do explode if they don't get enough lube, as anyone who has lost an AB bearing on an oddy transmission can attest. If I owned something like that I would for sure be running a lube pump in the transmission. Probably something oddy owners should do as well but our power supply to do that is limited. This is why oddy owners shouldn't rev the pizz out of the machine while it is just sitting there ----- no lube to the AB.

I am trying to locate these bushings off of the number stamped on them. If that doesn’t work then I will go the measure route. Anyways I have googled and come up with nothing. Maybe someone on here has seen this numbering setup or ???
It shows 60154, I’ve checked autofab, prothane , rancho , progressive suspension all with no luck.

This one is still sitting in the back of the garage. I have been slowly getting parts. Rear hub bearings (4) all the front wheel bearings and seals, front and rear master cylinders, front brake calipers, tie rod ends and ball joints. It will need one front brake line as it was somehow crushed. Have to find someone in Vegas who can build one with Aeroquip fittings and lines. Still no luck finding the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts and the trans is stalled as well. Thought about pulling the trans from turbos old buggy to see if the limited slip diff could be installed in it. In the end possibly going with a RPM trans. Searching for all
The electronics for the Rotax 583 as it was all missing.

Since they have started closing down casinos here in Vegas I seem to be getting off of work earlier.
Decided I would see what’s up with the rotax that came with this buggy. First I just shined a light in the exhaust port and found the one piston had a nick in the shoulder at the top. Looking through the spark plug hole didn’t show much. Pulled the head off and found the edge of the piston had damage. Possibly the electrode from a plug? Head has a few dings but looks good otherwise. Pulled the cylinders and the piston with the crown damage also has scuffing and the ring is stuck in the groove. It is on the original bore of 70mm. I pulled the flywheel and the primary clutch, both came off very easy. Cylinders have been ported and they are using 2 base gaskets. Will disassemble the clutch to see at least what color spring and can arms it uses. Only left to pull are the electrics and then I was going to split the cases and install new crank seals.

More pictures

Last few pictures

You buggers better open up those casinos by June. I wana play at the world series.
On a side note, it looks like that piston got hot. Shoulda run avgas.
CO

Love what you are doing... keeping them alive and sharing.

They are taking it month by month for re openings. We will see. That is the clutch side piston I believe. It was running old round slide mikuni carbs, Same jetting both sides. Is that common for these rotax engines to just run a single ring piston?

I go to the skidoo sites when I'm looking for info like that. Those guys are all Engine guys but their threads wander worse than ours do. Here is one if you ignore the off topic marine Engine yap yap.
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/94 ... ngle-ring/
CO

Speaking of off topic slightly, here is a fun one to watch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29IWc-zrv8
CO

looks like a bearing or something let go to make those kinds of marks..that really sucks

Does anyone if a 102c primary clutch has multiple holes for mounting a starter ring gear? This one has 2 sets with the ones spaced farther out for the gear that came with it.
The clutch has a lot of rust and the faces are “ok”. It does have the A1 arms and a purple spring

Number off of the piston crown.

The race valves don’t look bad at all, not a ton of carbon on them

There is a bunch of this stuff in the cooling system tract, it looks like sand but I’m not sure.
Their is also debris on the side of the Engine that didn’t have the melt down. It shines like metal but dissolves when you rub it between your fingers

That was a good read CO, I will join that sight and see if I can get more info

This 102c doesn’t have any holes.

Go Oddy what is your clutch off of?