Here is some info I have found on the transmissions Triple E used in some of their buggies. I’ve also seen RPM and Coleman transmissions. This is focused on what I’ve been told is a Hymark. I’ve seen 3 different setups. Turbos old buggy I didn’t have any issues with it so I haven’t opened it up. First triple e has a solid rear setup like the pilot. It is setup for type 2 or 4 cv’s. I picked up a triple e from Dave-Co and it has an open diff. Also setup for type 2 or 4 cv’s. I just found a set of cases and some parts that has a smaller version of an open diff. This one though is setup to use the spicer u-joints as it has about half the number of splines. It is interesting to see how they progressed over time and what was used where. The open diffs were not allowed in MTEG or short course/stadium racing. The Dave-Co car was designed strictly for desert racing yet it comes with an open diff. Their were also multiple driven shafts used for various models as well as having a brake on the other side of the driven or not. The open diff cars had dual inboard brakes where the others had one inboard brake or one brake on the driven shaft or ???. Anyway here are some pictures of different setups. I’ve seen pictures but only of different gear ratio setups as well. From 9:1-11.1.

More pictures

Two of the forward/reverse setups

Here are some pics of the rear brake setups.

This is great stuff. Thank you for posting. What size cnc master were they using?

Hey Bob: Those dog rings and dogs on the gears are badly rounded. That happened on my formula race car. Pic 60DBC4E9-5CBC-4DF3-AC6D-5C4700B8244F.jpeg. I got my gears re-ground. I took my gears and dog rings to sharp rite grinding here in BC. You probably must have a grinding shop somewhere around you down there. One of the gears in that pic looks pretty bad and I don't think it can be saved. By the way those gears look very similar to the gears in my race car gear box. The angle on my dogs and gears was 7'. I actually had a tapered plate ground to 7' so that I could grind my own gears.
I have 4 pdf files that show different Hewland gearboxes. Not sure if I can attach all four here at the same time. Anyways I had the FT200 and take a look at the gears.
CO

The stadium buggy used a 3/4 for the front and a 7/8 for the rear
Turbos old buggy used a single 3/4 master (airheart) for front and rear. These two buggies used Honda 4 trax front brake calipers. Turbos buggy only had a rear brake on the driven shaft. It originally used a front brake caliper from a Honda Goldwing. Problem was it didn’t want to float on the caliper pins and actually rolled the top 1” of the rotor inward. I found an airheart 150 series caliper and am having the parts made to Convert it over so it matches the stadium buggy. The 175 series caliper by airheart is no longer made. Clamping force and a larger diameter round brake pad are the differences.
The Dave-Co eee again used 2 cnc rear calipers. They are also airheart master cylinders. The aluminum masters are no longer made and the new ones are a composite plastic of some sort. 3/4 for the front brakes and 7/8 for the rear.

The Dave-Co buggy uses calipers from industrial equipment. I found those at a company called tolomatic. They build hydraulic and air operated calipers. They are small and according to them have more braking pressure. Down side is these all use oval pads and they come in 2 types. Hard and soft, the hard one have to get up-to temperature before they reach their best performance.

CO I swear these gears are made of butter. The ones in the pic I had replaced so those are old. I didn’t take any pics of the shaft after putting new ones on. The bronze bushings take a beating as well. I will post some pics of the Dave-Co eee. Those bearings and gears changed colors. I’m guessing from lack of lubrication. I lucked out and found some cases. They originally were with that triple e that came out of Cali. Then Mudbogger bought it, then it went to JohnL in Pennsylvania then he sold the car to a guy in Connecticut. He was gracious enough to sell me the cases so I Could get one Step closer to getting this transmission back up and running. I chased those damn case halves all over this country before someone would sell them to me.

Bob I'm sorry I didn't get those case halves to you directly myself. Happy you got them though, very good! None, presently but I have owned 4 Triple EEE's total over the years. Your restorations are fantastic! I always look forward to reading through your builds here.

If I come across anything else in my shop that is T-E related, I'll surely reach to you.

Just FYI - I read on another forum that a guy Tim that works at "74 Weld" in El Cajon used to work Ed and Sara of Triple E. Whether that's of help, I dunno, but thought I'd pass it along to you.

~John

Thank you for the info, hopefully I’m headed down to Ontario and Dan Diego in March. Chula Vista isnt to far down the road. Appreciate you keeping an eye out for parts and leads.
Bob

I’ve tried googling name and numbers but get no hits. I know I could get bushings made somewhere but are the numbers in relation to a size? Also would grooving these make them last any longer. They go inside of the gears that ride in the shafts. The bushing isn’t mine but is one for this transmission.

You can't just "groove" a bushing because when it gets around to that contact point there will be a divet. You have to spiral groove to maintain contact point.
In my opinion I would get Oilite bronze. That stuff is impregnated with oil but it is also pourous.
You also need the correct Rockwell.
Bushings in gears don't work well. You really need needle bearings for gears.
You can probably get bushings and info from these guys: https://www.nationalbronze.com/
CO

Or maybe these guys can help: https://asbbearings.com/
CO

Thanks CO, I was on their website earlier checking it out.

https://youtu.be/xUGcR6bWlP4
https://youtu.be/EMGD6fIle_o

A couple short videos of the internal workings of the Hymark. I “cleaned” up the gears that were fubar and everything seems to turn better. They need to be cleaned up some more and I have to get the other case half out to a machine shop as well as get the brass bushings made for the gears.

Was able to get some parts for the trans. Misc gears, Shift mechanism, gear stack, the 2 larger
Gears are a 10:1 ratio and an 8:1 ratio. Also picked up another driven shaft. Will have to get that machined to match the broken one but all in all a good score. This should be enough to get it up and running.