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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
Seems lately, my parking brake cable has started sticking to the point that after I've had it engaged, I have to rotate the arm by hand the last bit to get it to release. Wondering if anyone has had any luck freeing these things up and if so, how? Or do i just need to start the search for a new/used one? I was able to free it up some once before by spraying it generously with WD40 and working it back and forth over a period of a few days but not sure if that will do it this time.
Any ideas on this are welcome.

Also, if anyone has an extra in your stash would be willing to part with for a reasonable price, I'd be interested. Or a trade for a part you may be missing or need? I have a few extra items laying around! TIA.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I haven't had much success fixing old cables.
Try these outfits:
1) http://www.venhillusa.com/products/cabl ... -kits.html
2) https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
3) http://metrocustomcables.com/parking-brake-cables


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
canadian oddy wrote:



#1 & #3 do not answer, "Leave a message" only and #2 said they could not help me.

I'll say it again, if anyone has one they'd like to sell or trade, let me know!

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 12:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Is your old cable that bad that you can not save it? Is your return spring in place and in good shape? I would clean the hell out of the old one. I would use Kroil and the little red straw and try to flush it out holding the cable vertical. Keep doing this until it runs out the bottom of the cable. Then do it some more. Blow compressed air into the cable to help flush it out. Don't forget to work the cable back and forth. I would then flood it with liquid graphite spray from both ends. Once the liquid evaporates the graphite remains. What do you have to loose? Its just a parking brake cable. It just has to move a inch or two and return.

Hell the FL250 doesn't even have a sheath to move in. Its just a plastic coated cable. Your not doing a showroom restore, you just want it to work. If you can get a replacement great, but they are hard to find. Spend your time cleaning up the old one instead of looking for a new one.

I would stay away from WD40. It seems to get gummy overtime.

Many opinions on WD40.......http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/wd-4 ... t.1160243/


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I would have to agree with rmesser here. Try to save it.
Another thing you could try is going to a bicycle shop. This is just an ebrake anyways. Don't see why the cable has to be that stout.
Custom motorcycle shop would know where to get stuff.
Did you leave a message at any of the other two suppliers ??


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
You can also use a PTFE (Teflon) based lubricant. I am luck enough to work for an aerosol manufacturer and these are some of the products we make. The R&D guys give me stuff and my Volkswagen or my Oddy are sometimes the Guinea pig.

As a note, don't go crazy and over lube the cable. If too much graphite or Teflon is used the the cable will attract the really fine dust particles and cause the cable to gum up.

Rand


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
My experience is anything except cable lube will gum up and attract dirt , may free it up a bit but will not last long. I'd flush it with some type of solvent/oil but would completely rinse the oil out of the sheath with some brake or carb cleaner and use cable lube.
Just my opinion


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
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Location: Wilmington NC
FloridaEdd wrote:
My experience is anything except cable lube will gum up and attract dirt , may free it up a bit but will not last long. I'd flush it with some type of solvent/oil but would completely rinse the oil out of the sheath with some brake or carb cleaner and use cable lube.
Just my opinion


Thanks all for the feedback.

Interesting idea Edd - I'd never heard of cable lube prior. This stuff looks like it could work and reviews online aren't bad either. Have to head out of town for a bit but will give this a try and update.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Cool deal. Can't wait to hear how it works out.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I have had one of those cable/clamp/lube fitting things in that picture since the late 70's.
It has not worked that well in my opinion. Most of the lube comes out everywhere. It worked on new cables ok but if you are trying to ram lube down a damaged cable sheath I think it would not work that well. But you got nothing to loose.
I would clamp a hose around the end of cable and fill it with some lube. Then put an air nozzle on the other end and give it a 100psi air blast. Probably work just as good or better.
My two cents worth.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:20 pm
Posts: 778
Location: Joliet, Illinois
Take a zip lock baggy and cut a bottom corner off, just enough to slide about an inch of the cable into it. Seal the baggy to the cable with rubber bands, or anything, that will make it tight enough so nothing can leak out. Suspend the baggy so that it is high enough off the ground, so that the cable is not touching the ground. Pour enough oil in the baggy, so that the tip of the cable is covered. Seal the zip lock about half closed. Let gravity do it's job. It may take a week or two, but sooner or later the oil will work it's way down the cable, in the sheath. Make sure you have a rag under the end of the cable to catch oil once it migrates through.



I have used the above method a couple of times (to save a few bucks) with great results. However, the issue of attracting grit sounds logical, so do it at your own risk.

Just my .02


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
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Location: Wilmington NC
Two thumbs up for the Tusk Cable Lube. About two hours in and already much better. No fluid coming out the bottom yet but cable is moving back and forth with a fair amount of ease. Going to let it soak for 24 hours or so and see how it does.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Glad to hear you can save it. Beats buying a expensive replacement.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
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Location: Wilmington NC
Been about a week and a half that I've been working the cable back and forth with the cable lube and it's almost moving freely. Still some dark rust colored crud (probably rust :shock: ) coming out of the end but I continue the process of working it back and forth and wiping the cable off. Work is crushing my free time so no hurry to put it back on yet.
Here's my question regarding the protective rubber bellows on each end: the end by the caliper (which BTW is the end the crud is still coming out of) is no longer functional. Any ideas on how to protect this end from future dirt/mud/etc. getting into the cable? Was thinking I may try to put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it but it would have to be large enough to go over the ball at the end. Apparently the "New" one being sold on e-Bay for $100 doesn't need these (?).
Just wanted to see if anyone else might have a small stroke of genius on this dilemma.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Do an internet search for "Cable Bellows". You will find what you need.

PS. I wouldn't leave the end unprotected as it will fill up with crud..... again.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Hard to find. That's why the aftermarket does not have them.

Even if you found one you would have to cut the cable to install the boot, and that would be hard to repair.

Even the FL400 tranny shifting cable set ATV Racing had made were missing the boots. Guess they could not be found.

Just add lubing the cable to you list of post ride service. That will keep if free.

Honda sure built quality parts. Wish they were still building them!!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
Randman wrote:
Do an internet search for "Cable Bellows". You will find what you need.

PS. I wouldn't leave the end unprotected as it will fill up with crud..... again.

Rand


rmesser wrote:
Hard to find. That's why the aftermarket does not have them.

Even if you found one you would have to cut the cable to install the boot, and that would be hard to repair.

Just add lubing the cable to you list of post ride service. That will keep if free.

Honda sure built quality parts. Wish they were still building them!!!!!!!!!


Seems you're both right. Checked around the interweb and found a few things that MIGHT work if i could get them installed. Don't see how I can get a boot over the end of the cable without destroying it. Still thinking i might be able to get a larger piece of heatshrink over it and at least protect the area where the cable goes in.

The search continues...


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
The shrink tube has been done before, but I don't remember the thread or who done it, but there is a picture below. I believe he used 1/2" shrink tube.
Here is another idea: https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Brake-Ru ... B003U658EY


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
canadian oddy wrote:
The shrink tube has been done before, but I don't remember the thread or who done it, but there is a picture below. I believe he used 1/2" shrink tube.
Here is another idea: https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Brake-Ru ... B003U658EY


Well looky who's back!

Hmm, interesting. I like it

Edit: I did check out the Jagwire boots but again, i don't think they'll fit over the ball at the end without destroying the boot. Going to pick up some 1/2" heat shrink today and reassemble. Will post pics when complete.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
The 1/2" heatshrink did the trick. No telling how durable it will be but it's definitely better than having nothing on there. And since they came three to a pack, it can always be replaced again.
In summary, as long as the cable isn't frayed cable lube, time and persistence will free it up. And, since Honda doesn't make these parts anymore, sometimes you just have to make things up as you go along.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Cool deal u were able to save it and I like the shrink wrap idea. Got to remember that one.


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