Some of you may have heard of POR15 and some of you may not. I got a lot of experience using this product so I wanted to start a thread. I also think it would be a great way to get a tough paint job without paying for big money for PC. Another thing about most this thread is about por15 hardnose paint and not the regular por15 black most associate with por15.

I guess I will start by why I think por15 would be good for Ody’s and pilots.

1-You brush it on. You can spray it as well but I have never done it. By being able to brush it on you do not need the spray painting tools and room. Anyone can brush and por15 self levels and you will see no brush marks.

2- its supper tough paint that IMO is harder to chip than powder coat. Next time you’re at a big car show and you see the por15 booth take a step up to it. They will hand you a screwdriver and a chunk of por15 painted metal and ask you to scratch it or chip it. It’s that tough and must be done right do get those results.

3- Repair factor. If you do need to weld on your frame after paint for repairs reasons. It’s easy to repaint the spot with por15.

4- Price. I have not done a pilot frame but look to spend about $125 for all stuff needed. A quart would be more then enough to do a frame and all the red parts. Por15 goes a long way. I can paint a FL250 with a pint. To get the legendary por15 bond I am recommending por15 black. And then por15 hardnose red on top of that. It’s not needed but well worth it. (I will go over the two-step method later) You can paint all black parts with por15 black starter kit.

4- Colors. I never painted with the por15 red. But from what I seen it may look well. Also the black parts can be painted with por15 black. Por15 black is legendary as it is. This will save you lots of money not having all the black parts PC. Por15 black is perfect for your gas tank as well. A $20 por15 black starter kit would paint all the black on your buggy. For the pilot guys you can paint your wheels with por15 Whitcote. Whitcote is the same as Hardnose but they call it Whitcote for it’s sold to the Marine trade under that name for some reason. I do not see any gold por15 though. They may have some in the caliper painting or Engine painting lines. They have por15 silver in a $20 starter kit. But it’s weird stuff that I will go over later.

5- Chemical resistant. Gas, brake fluid, and even paint stripper will not have any effect on por15. Spill all the gas you like with no worries. The reason paint stripper will not effect it is for it’s incredibly nonporous it will not let the stripper’s chemicals to penetrate it. For this reason it makes cleaning simple. Dirt and grime wash off like it was dirt in your kitchen sink.

5- Humid areas. Por15 is moister cured. So painting in humid or rainy days is best.

Here is some info from POR15.

HARDNOSE paints are tough, glossy, two-component coatings for use over primed or painted surfaces.
They are moisture cured, so exposure to moisture and humidity will actually improve their performance and strength.

When fully cured, HARDNOSETM Paints are rock-hard, chemical resistant, non-porous, and incredibly tough. Durable and easily cleaned, they will not crack, chip, peel, or fade with age. HARDNOSETM Paints will withstand even the most intensive UV environments.

These beautiful, two-component coatings are stronger than any color paints you have ever tried. The long-lasting brilliant colors will look terrific wherever you use them, and will withstand incredible abuse. You'll be amazed and delighted at how well HARDNOSETM paints hold up under conditions that would quickly destroy ordinary finishes.

HARDNOSETM paints are also excellent for industrial applications. Use our safety yellow or orange colors on machinery guards or heavy equipment, and then stand back and marvel at how long they last under abuse.

Put HARDNOSETM Paints on the chassis of your car, truck, or motorcycle, and quit worrying about stone chips and gravel roads. You'll be amazed at the toughness!









I painted a vintage moped with hardnose. I picked this stuff for the moped would get gas spilled on the tank. Also the moped rides on the front bumper of a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) home. So I wanted a paint job that would take the abuse of ridding on the front bumper. Here are some pics of the moped that por15 wash brushed on.











Here are some pics of the hardnose red on a mower deck. Not sure how it matches to Honda Red.



POR15 CONS

Painting an Ody with por15 is a huge project. Por15 has little shelf life so all painting must be done the same day the can is opened. Its moisture cured remember? Painting a round tube frame will not be fun and easy.

It’s also a huge mess. DO NOT GET ANY OF IT ON YOU. It will take weeks to come off in some cases. After you do it a few times a powder coater looks better and better. Not kidding!!

It will fill in your threaded holes so you have to tap the threads if you do not plug them. You have to take the plug out while por15 is wet. If not they will seal in the holes. I used paper jammed into the thread holes. For instance, If I let the por15 dry on the paper. I will then have to chisel and pick it out.

POR15 black and silver must be top coated while the por15 is still tacky. Black and silver are NOT UV resistant. HARDNOSE is UV resistant and needs no topcoat.

POR15 black does not like new shinny surfaces. It needs rust to get that legendary bond. Sandblast works okay but still will not give you the super bond. If your black painted parts are not in impact zones then sand blasting is fine. For black nerfbars I would sand blast and then rust for a week outside. Then do the por15 black process.

Por15 likes to run on edges while brushing it on. It’s not a thick paint like you would think. This is why you can paint a lot with a little can. Being on the thin side it will run easy when your brush hits a flat spot or lip. Best to have a friend follow behind the painter with dryer brush and keen eye on the edges.

That’s about all I can think of as far as cons go. As far as how strong it is? Being asked to scratch it with a screwdriver is all I needed to see. Also when reading this thread and reading other threads on the net. Make sure your reading about POR15 hardnose and not the regular POR15 black. They are far from the same.

Also remember I never painted with the red. So how the color will match your on your own. I have used this POR15 lots though. I thought I might pass my findings on. And perhaps get a member to try it out. I like the repair and repaint factor a lot on my Fl250’s.

Also here is some vids testing POR15 that I have done. Also some other por15 vids I have done. Most this is with POR15 black though.

POR15 Chemical Testing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBvt9kFVi4M" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1ORTszyS9s" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sll8NwIaqfE" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0srZV45_JEk" ."..

Here is some por15 testing I did with brake fluid,gas,and paint stripper. Nothing will even touch it. Also the video series on cleaning the tanks. I missed some things in the vids so feel free to ask here. These are older video and learned more. Nothing major to change or update the vids though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpJRI1mNY8" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpJRI1mNY8" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_PgAi7xTws" ."..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcLYPxxmAxs" ."..

http://www.advanced-rust-protection.com ... rdnose.htm" .".." .".." .".." ."..


LABORATORY TEST RESULTS
Because the main concerns for a clear topcoat is length of life and resistance to various atmospheric conditions, we have subjected Hardnose Paint to the following tests:

ASTM B-117 This test measures salt spray resistance
ASTM D-1654 This test measures adhesion retention after salt spray exposure
Taber Abrasion This test measures abrasion resistance, a crucial factor in determining the life of a coating.
SWARD Hardness This test measures coating hardness againsta "benchmark", in this case, two-part epoxy coatings.


In ASTM B-117 testing and ASTM D-1654 testing, Hardnose Paint was tested along with four well-kncwn rust preventive primers: ZINC PHOSPHATE PRIMER, BARIUM METABORATE PRIMER, ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER,and ZINC RICH PRIMER.
Test durations were set at 500 hours, 1000 hours, and 1500 hours in a condensing humidity 5% salt spray solution at 950F (350C) Products that withstand 500 hours in this test are considered to be good anti-corrosive coatings.

PRODUCT 500 Hrs 1000 Hrs. 1500 Hrs. 500 Hr
Adhesion 1000 Hr
Adhesion
Zinc Phosphate Primer Pass Fail Not tested 90% 0.0%
Barium Metaborate Primer Pass Pass Fall 95% 2.0%
Zinc Chromate Primer Pass Pass Fall 95% 90.0%
Zinc Rich Primer Pass Pass Fail 95% 85.0%
Hardnose Paint Pass Pass Pass 97% 93.0%

The TABER ABRASION TEST was conducted using a Taber Abrasion machine with CS-17 wheels and 1250 grams of pressure. After 500 cycles Hardnose Paint lost 20 mg. of weight while a standard two-component epoxy lost 23 mg.

Hardness was measured by a SWARD Hardness tester seven days after both products were applied to identical panels. The results are as follows:

Two-component Epoxy -55
Hardnose Paint -52


Where I think Hardnose shines is the chemical resistant part. Lots of people say POR15 is just Two-component Epoxy. Epoxy is not moister cured and chemical resistant though.

Hardnose and Whitcote derections. They say sandblast is okay which I do not agree with. Not for por15 black anyway. (if using por15 black and then hardnose)

http://www.por-outlet.com/new_page_9.htm" .".." ."..

Excellent writeup bighead! I bookmarked this for the rainy day I do the full restoration on my oddy :) (in a few years lol)

good writeup bighead,maybe this should be a sticky?

Duuuuude...I'm lovin' the Terry Labonte go cart!! =)

Yah gokarts are my other huge hobby.

I also like the pedal mopeds and 70's and 80's smaller enduros.

Also if your thinking about POR15 or want to try it out. Next time you need some black parts painted go to your local auto paint store and pick up a starter kit. The starter kit is regular POR15 and it's only $20. They sale the starter kit in Silver but silver is big thumbs down IMO. It's not the same. I say stay away from it at all cost. Remember POR15 regular black is not UV safe. It needs topcoat while the POR15 is still tacky.

Hardnose is UV safe and needs no topcoat.

Some reviews I have liked and agree with.


POR-15 is different than the "rust-conversion" type of products, as there is no "conversion" involved, it does not work by converting iron oxide into brittle iron phosphate, its bond to the surface is mainly mechanical, simply penetrating and sealing the surface against further oxygen and water penetration to arrest the rusting process, it then remains flexible indefinitely.
I have been using it for years with very good results, it works great on rusty surfaces, but not for crap over any other paint or on smooth unrusted metal. I have sample pieces of rusted sheetmetal that I have treated with POR and then folded in half and then flattened back out with a hammer and dolly without any chipping or cracking, just a few surface scuff marks.
I encourage anyone to obtain a little and experiment with it...but the key factor is that the surface must be well rusted for it to attain its maximum performance.

I have used POR-15 on sand blasted surfaces. POR-15 has held up as advertised, great. Follow the product directions. I have hit it with a hammer and I live on a gravel road, no chipping. The only caution I would give is be sure you want it painted because it is not easy to take off if you follow the directions.

Again this is POR15 black not hardnose. People LOL at the hammer stuff. But I have seen it with my own eye.

This version of POR-15 is rated for UV/sun exposure? I know some of the POR-15 products aren't.

Yes hardnose is UV safe. POR15 Black is not. I topcoat the por15 black with rustulium while the por15 is still tacky. This bonds them as one and keep the rock hard finish. It needs to be tacky though. Again hardnose is uv safe and has colors.

They use hardnose to paint and line chemical holding tanks. My sandblaster said his stripping bath tank had zero effect on it soaking over 24 hours. How can this be? Por15 is moisture cured. So it like moisture until it's cured. This process make it so nonporus that it even strippers can not get into it. It's just to nonporus so it has no effect on it. Porcelain comes to mind.

I will not lie though. It's product that you really have to learn and read about to get right. You also cannot skip any of the derections. I know some about hardnose. I know alot about por15 black. as far as what works and does not work that is. In short is if you have some rust you will be fine. It's the shinny new steal and primer parts you will need to get right.

The key to the por15 bond is the Medal Ready step. Medal ready changes the rust to a zink phos. coating. The por15 paint then bonds to this zink/rust coating sealing it forever stopping rust. If you use medal ready and have shinny new parts your skipping the process for no rust to turn into zink. After you use medal ready and let it dry. The brown rust will be chocky white. This is what you want. So you can see where people have problems using it on new steal.

Hardnose says it's best applied over por15 black. But will work on primer service. Hardnose is a two part paint while por15 black is not.

At the rock crawling forums you will her por15 hold up great on the chassis pounded by rocks.

Whats weird about por15 is it's so thin of a paint. You would think it would be really thick for what it does.

Okay done now. LOL

Here is a pic of the chalky looking look you get after you use medal ready. People call this the etching part. But whats really going on is it turned my rust to a zink phos. coating.

These parts were cleaned and let rust for a week in weather. So on super rusty parts this chalky white is even more that's what looks in my pic below.

I posted this for some people skip this Medal Ready part. Also the por15 Marine Clean degreaser is the best by far I ever used. It is water based which is another magor part on the bond process. I can go on few hours of how well marine clean works. But I will spare you guys all that stuff. I will say when cleaning old grimmy fl250 parts and Engine it will save me hours in cleaning/scrubbing time.

To save time and spare you on marine clean rambling. Here is a vid when I used it on nasty fl250 frame. The marine clean part starts at 1:19 in the this vid.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Odyssey-F ... d1&vxp=mtr" .".." .".." ."..

Hi big head can you tell me can they tint this paint to match the oddy paint passion red r109 ?

i heard about this stuff years ago. but never used it. thinking of maybe doing the fl450r with this. never heard of the hardnose stuff. what happens to the pro 15 when its left out in the sun. does it just fade. how does a guy made it uv resistance. think i want to go black again. have both oddys black.

I believe the poor 15 hard nosed is UV resistant if I remember right

I just bought the dark red POR15 hardnose to put on a frame. They claimed its UV resistant, just not the original black. Need warmer weather before I apply it. I will post back with results n pics soon as I do it. Oh, its $70 a quart...ouch.

Gary

Hey gary have you had a chance to paint your oddy yet i would like to see how it turned out . Ive been thinking of doing the same but not sure on the color match

I will be posting before, during, n after pics with a good write up. Crossing my fingers it works well.

Still wintery or windy/dusty here. Give me a couple of weeks.

Gary

Do they make the hard nose in black. Or you haven't go with the regular por 15. And then put something on it to make it uv resistant.

R u going to sand blast your frame or just paint right over the existing.

I have had my frame sandblasted now im going to give it a couple of coats of por15 black as a rust preventative then im going to paint it with hardnose red (darker of the two reds )
Fingers crossed it it works out
Will post some pics (before and after shots)

any good results!! from this ? yo nuke, post the results buddy.

Looking forward to some result pics. And how it turns out

OK guys, I did a quick sanding to smooth out any flaking paint or rust and sanded off the stickers. I decided to spray the stuff with a hvlp gun and did 2 coats. Lots of wasted overspray but went on quicker than brushing...i think lol.Overall looks pretty good, I have a little left over for touch ups later. It is self leveling and takes several days to cure fully. I will add more pics later when totally dried.
Gary

More pics

looks pretty good..so did you do the metal ready thing to it, or just spray it. i have been wanting to do the fl450r when its done. i want to do black but i also want the uv protection.

what happens if its not protected from uv. will it start to flake?? or just color fade

Out in the sun the color looks really pretty n glossy but it needs at least 2 more coats in my opinion. Places that I only have one coat you can see light n dark spots thru the color. Nerfs had lots of chips and only one coat so looks bumpy, no runs. I also made tie down prints in the paint when I brought it home. I will spray it again after some warmer weather sets in. News said we has 15 inches of snow weds.

I did not use the etch stuff prior to painting. I have some rust converter from my dodge charger body work, maybe should of used some but didn't think it was nessisary. Guess time will tell. Lol

They make black with the UV stuff I think. Maybe the hardener as the uv stuff in it? Maybe check out the website. I have the original black somewhere.

Gary

Any updates on your frame, Nuke Em?

Nope, have not done anything with it. I am still waiting to finish some other projects and "honey do" list stuff.