This is what Odykid got all excited about?

Green arrows point to the fitup and glob weld, look around those are not the only
ones.

I know we had talked about this buggy a while back but don't remember what the out the door price was.
I have heard that kasea has been upgrading many performance parts for it .The welds you point out hoser surely don't look too good but then again i am not a welding major.I have seen some welds on other buggy's that don't look safe to me but they handle it somehow,then again if you tag a tree it is probably going to be a very different scenerio and probably not a good one.

It is no harder for a skilled worker or takes him/her no longer to make a good weld, fact is
it takes longer to make a bad weld, if you look close at that weld you can see where
they put an extra gob on to try and cover up the first mess, the whole key here is "skilled
labor" or "skilled worker"

I would love to try one out. Then have a bigger Engine dropped in. The clutches are on the right side, the axles look to be the same size (or close) as the Pilot. With that lay down clyinder, the stock Engine makes for a roomy Engine compartment. The welds could be the problem, especially if more power is added. I wonder what that tranny can handle. If it didn't lay back so far, it might serve as a 350 replacement. I love seeing it, let's hope they keep increasing displacement.

I got all exited not because of this particular machine, is because some one is making one close enough to the pilot and if the sales number do there good job we will see other bigger companies jumping into this market in a little wile and we will have a nice machine out there...

We have to start at some point always right?

dykid

Hoser you got the chance to seat on it?
may be try it out?
Start it up?

where are the good/bad info?

dykid

Nope, a guy on ebay selling these (dealer?) sent me the pictures by email, without
riding one I think it needs a bigger Engine, something over 30hp I doubt that 250
4 stroke will do it.

from what i remember talking about before on these machines is that they knew shortly afterward the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) would not be large enough for the buggy and have been producing hp parts for it allready ,along with larger engines too ? I havent looked at thier web page for some time but they should have some of the new parts and motors available allready ?

The welding at least will have to be inspected for quality control much better than that one buggy anyway.

Ha, I KNEW I'd find this topic here somewhere. Looks like one popped up over on Minibuggy.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects ... oject.html

Hoser,

Having been a welder for the RV industry for over 9 years, I hate to break the news to you..... There is only ONE way to determine if a weld is good or not. And that is to cut it in half!!!! Appearance has absolutely zero to do with the quality of the weld. It can be the ugliest goober bead in the world but it may very well still be a good weld. Penetration is what makes a good weld not appearance.

You guys do realize this is from 2005 right - I disagree that apperance does not matter. When you are welding one of the critical factors is sheilding the arc. this is mostly shielded by a inert gas in MIG welding - what most guys use. The old tried and try stick welding which most people do not have the skills to use is sheilded by the flux around the rod. When the arc is not properly shielded postuals can be introduced into the puddle causing a weak weld. so why would the arc not be sheilded properly - with MIG it could be simple as a breeze blowing - disrupting the gas around the arc. that is why MIG is not good for field welding. You should flux core wire in these situations. Or the welder is not holding the mig tourch in the correct position - to far away. This will greatly affect the apperance of the weld as well as the quality of the weld. If you would like to try it, simply run a bead with the gas regulatoer turned off. you will see a crapy looking weld that is not very strong.

My favorite type of weldr is a submerged arc - it has a hopper of flux and a spooled wire which gives the best of MIG and Stick welding - you can run longer beads on thicker material.

There are many other factors like the how clean is the base metal. Paint - oil - zinc - will burn causing postuals to be introduced in the puddle. The correct setting of current is critical. The filler rod used - one and one.

When I see a weld with a good appearance chances are the base metal was clean, the arc was shielded, the welder knew how to handle the torch, the welding machine was set properly - thus producing a quality - good looking weld with proper burn in.

I have always welded to a standard like
ANSI/AWS D1.1/D1.1
ANSI/AWS D1.3/D1.3
ANSI/AWS D1.6/D1.6
Most if not all my welds on the job are inspected by someone that is qualified to inspect them, visual inspections are done my my first line supervisor daily and by my second line supervisors on spot inspections.

First part of the inspection is appearance NO NEED to test that weld it fails the "visual inspection" and the welder that made that weld is sent back to the hall.

Just because a weld does not break does not make it a good or more importantly a proper or acceptable weld.

I have been a certified welder on and off for 30 years and many of my welds have been inspected by certified weld inspectors and weld administrators.

As a first and second line supervisor when I work the nuke plants I have to do a visual on all my welders welds before they call QC.

What weld codes or standards do you practice and adhere to at your RV job?

Even good looking welds fail http://www.weldreality.com/bad%20weld%20section.htm

Auto industry is not immune http://www.weldreality.com/Bad%20Weld%20Trucks.htm

Ton of great info on the above site and this site http://www.gowelding.org/Welding_Certification.html

Yup the post is from 2005 what ever happen to these buggys ?

http://pages.videotron.com/horusrh/pdfk ... plorer.pdf" ."..

haha that suppose to mean it was approved by the Germans and carries German like quality talk about a line of bullshit anybody that attended the event could say the same thing about their products.

605 lbs with a 250cc 4 stroke bet that thing hauls.


Where are they today?

Lmao. Makes me think of those electric heaters made by and approved by the Amish.
Those are the last people I would want to have pushing my electronic product. No offense to the Amish but come on... Who buys this shit

that's only 4hrs away from me... Damn to many projects already. Got a nice 06' GSXR motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for it to.

Come again...does that spec sheet say "KICK START"? So they just setup an a-arm buggy frame and dropped their standard Kasea Skyhawk 250cc four-wheeler Engine/gearbox in it?

Yep, for $600 that chassis might not be too shabby for a full a-arm setup. 7.5" of travel (max) although those shocks probably suck eggs. 86 the rest of it though.

Yes it does probably one of Asian high production scooter engines they threw in it?

Yep (I added more after Hoser's post), you are very right. It's their Skyhawk 250cc Engine & gearbox lump.

The buggy that started it all for me had a kickstart,whichI thought was a great idea since a lot of the buggys have electric start or nothing.
It was A Carter buggy that a local bicycle dealership was selling.It was 150cc and I thought it was cool as hell but it was way overpriced.Pretty sure it was like this one but a 2seater
http://youngstown.craigslist.org/mcy/3126676430.html" ."..
I ended up getting a Yerfdog 150cc from Sams club that was about 1500 bucks,but I think that was 1500 less then what they wanted for the Carter.
I believe Carter is still in business selling buggies.All the chinese buggys ive seen had electric start or nothing,that's why I thought the kick start was cool in that buggy,I guess a rope start would be just as good for a backup

any one notice the front tires are on backwards

Only took 7 years to find it, LOL. Funny what old stuf will show up in the new posts!!