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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Considering buying a new to me horizontal band saw but it's 4 phase and I need some guidance on weather I can use it or if I have to change the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Going to look at it at 4pm today so any fast help is appreciated.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
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Location: hole above ground
look at phase converter if its Less then the electric single phase M 0 T 0 R

and its most likely 3 phase

Speed


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Thank you speed. Someone converted it at some time as it works off 110v single phase even though it has the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) tagged as 4 phase.
Alot more heavy duty then my other ones. It's a Armstrong Blum 712m. Bought it for 300$. I bought a lot of aluminum pipe I've been selling and my saw cuts strait but not perfect so I have to leave extra material ,if I sell 12" section I ship a 13" now I can cut more precise. Gonna pick it up tomorrow.
Thanks again for the reply.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Figured I'd include a pic


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 9:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
FloridaEdd wrote:
Figured I'd include a pic


Nice looking saw what you going to build with that :-)

Plug almost visible in your picture is for ? (orange cord)


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
I have a few horizontal band saws but we're too small to cut 6" pipe through cleanly, also the price was right 300$.
The plug is the power wire. Works off of 120v. And the plate on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is labeled as 4 phase. I think that's why I got it cheap,,everyone thought it was 4 phase. Gonna play with it this afternoon ,hook up the oil system ect. Ram is low on oil so I got to figure out how to add oil but can't be that hard,famous last words.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:21 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
So I got the saw going. Had a cracked hydraulic fitting which was a odd ball so I tapped and changed out the fittings.
So Im cutting with it and my cuts are off about a 1/16th" vertical narrow at the top and wider at the bottom.
My pipe is flat on the bed and I even added a strap over it to make sure it stayed flat.
This saw has additional adjustments that my other saws don't. The roller assemblies have a cam type of bolt and I belive this is to change the angle of the blade but wanted some input before I start screwing with it.
Of course I can't get the pic to load but will add one with the wife's phone


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:27 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
1


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:49 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
So it's less then 1/16th. Ami just being picky.
Micrometer was set at zero on the thin section


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Widest point.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:42 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Can you adjust the speed of the cut my experience with horizontal band saws is slower the cut straighter the cut. Sharp blade also cuts straighter.

Adjust the left blade guide the thing with the blade rollers on it close as you can to the piece your trying to cut.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I second what hoser said but I would not be screwing with anything unless you start with a brand new blade. Used blades sometimes run off. Looks like you have .003 taper but that is not a lot. This thing is not a lathe. Getting that three thou may be tough. But here is what I would do:
1) start with a new blade
2) make sure the bolt on that top cam is snug as well as the bolt that will be at the back of that roller assembly
3) move the left adjustable guide in close to the work
4) if it is still cutting a taper you will have to adjust the top cams on each of those roller assemblies

How did you get "less than a 1/16" ??
I only see .003 on the caliper ( .206 and .209 is three thou )


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
The speed of drop is adjustable. That cut took about 10 minutes,only because I was trying to get as straight as I could.
The angle that the saw is in as it makes its arch doesn't allow the lt guide to be any closer or it will make contact with the clamp.
The blade is sharp but I agree I should change the blade prior to puliinout my hair. While I know that now I failed to consider it prior to you're suggestion, thank you.
I will report back once I get a blade.
Thank you guys


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
And I came up with it being less than 1/16th of an inch because I can't read a micrometer. So take that.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
If three thou (.003) is all that the saw is out then I don't feel you are going to get any better than that. I think you will be chasing your tail adjusting the roller assembly. There is a bolt at the back that it would pivot on and then there is the bolt on the front side that the cam is on. I would make sure they are both snug.
By the way that is a nice saw. I like it.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:31 am 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
I can live with .003 , since I sell the pipe I'd like to get people a nice cut but I always let them know the cuts are not perfect. For personal projects I'll never notice it just would like to start as close as I can.
So are the blade guide/rollers just bearings I can just go buy anywhere? The vertical blade top guide rollers are worn,,they are grooved , one a little deep.
On a funny note I was filling the oil resivoure and had abut 2 gallons of hydraulic fluid in there and was adding more when I noticed most of it had run out the bottom. Turns out there was a pencil size hole in it. Not so funny by itself but put that with the fact I spent two days running around town to find my replacement fitting. Another day hunting down the tap I needed since I couldn't locate a replacement fitting. Had to order the tap,went to pick it up and ,it never came in so they had to order another one. Went to pick it up and they had found my original one right after ordering a replacement. I bought both. Figured it was a sign I'd break one.
The tapping and fitting for two new fittings took a whole 10 minutes.
So when my oil ran out I was not at all superseded.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
FloridaEdd wrote:
So are the blade guide/rollers just bearings I can just go buy anywhere? The vertical blade top guide rollers are worn,,they are grooved , one a little deep.


Those rollers are just standard bearings you should be able to get any place.
Based on what I see there on that dial caliper that saw is good. You won't get better. Just my opinion.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
So I really did not know how to read a micrometer. Just never had it explained to me and CO was kind enough to message me a crash course and it's so easy I feel silly for not figuring it out.
So a BIG SHOUT OUT to CO,thank you


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