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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 10:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 14
Did anyone see the Heavyweights movie? There was a race scene at the end of the movie featuring two Honda FL350s. Call me crazy, but I really want to loosely replicate the red one. Specifically with the custom skid plate thing on the front, and the single overhead roll bar. There was also some additional bracing tubing bits welded on to the rear portion of the frame, to help make the single roll bar a little more rigid. I'm still saving for an FL350 to use as the basis of this build. What do you guys think? Also, does anyone know what might have ever happened to the two FL350s used in that movie? Would anyone happen to have one or the other in their possession?

I'll follow up with additional images of the custom bracing done to the red one.

The youtube link shows the race from the movie:
https://youtu.be/MSGfqcFPIpU


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
OK that's it ---- I gota comment.
First: welcome new guy.

Second: this is not a movie.
I read your intro in the new members section and the comments in this section. Based on what you have already said, I estimate you are about 25 yrs old. You said: "Call me crazy, but I really want to loosely replicate the red one. Specifically with the custom skid plate thing on the front, and the single overhead roll bar. There was also some additional bracing tubing bits welded on to the rear portion of the frame, to help make the single roll bar a little more rigid." Well I suggest you read this thread and start on page one please viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15887&hilit=crsah
Please note that these machines will do 63 mph.
So NO you don't NeedzMoarPower. If you read the above thread you should be able to figure it out.

Third: If you are saving for a house and don't have the money to buy an FL350 then I hate to say it but you can't afford this machine. I am not trying to crush your dream or be rude. In 1985 I was 25 yrs old -- just like you now. That's when these machines were made and I wanted one really really really bad. I was racing cars at the time and had no money left. It wasn't until I was in my early 50's that I was able to get my hands on one. So yeah I know what a dream is. Further more these machines are now 33 yrs old and any machine you buy on the cheap is gona be junk. Trust me on that one. I paid $1500usa for two of them and they required a complete rebuild. I paid $2500can for my first one and it was junk too. Think about this for a moment -- a set of tires cost nearly $500 for the 8 ply, and that's only for tires !! Your done buddy. Buy a house and dream until you are 50.
I want lots of things. I want a Ferrari and I want to nail miss July. Well that ain't gona happen.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 12:05 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:01 pm
Posts: 234
Location: Lansing Michigan
C.O. You are a SAVAGE!!! Lol! This guys been all over the Facebook pages with this shit for the last week... if you were on there you would have exploded by now.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 12:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
:shock:


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 12:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Yeah maybe I am a bit of a savage or Neanderthal, but we gota clue this kid in. These things are not cheap to operate. He has no idea. He thinks if he pays 3G for one then its good to go LOL. Unless he buys from a member here, he is done. It's gona cost him big money AND you need the skills to fix it. Which apparently he does not based on what I read in those fagbook posts that you have just posted here. He better just buy a house because it will appreciate in value and an oddy does not. I see these things sit for months because a guy wants 3G and no one will pay that for some reason. If it is turn key then it is a value. The cost to fun factor can not be beat. A RZR is 20G and an oddy is 2G approx. Do the math. But many parts can not be gotten anymore so you have to make your own parts. This kid probably don't even have a grinder or drill press. He's done. He better listen to his wife. By the way those are expensive too.
Hey kid -- when you get your paycheques think half, and I am not talking about oddy costs.

Edit: This might sound like I am being an azz but based on what I have read on those posted fagbook threads posted above:
you are probably 25yrs old
you have never done anything mechanical and are not mechanically inclined
you are an entry level supervisor or some kind of office boy
you do not live at home and are renting and this is the reason why you are both thinking of buying a house. You are both smart enough to realize that mortgage payments are cheaper than rent and you will gain equity.
an oddy is a bad investment unless you are a mechanic of some kind and I bet you have never even jetted a carb or even know how to do that. You WILL have to do that and you WILL have to rebuild an Engine --- guaranteed.
hint AVGAS.

Please read as many threads in the tech section of this site as you can. You will soon come to realize the technical abilities you will need to have. You will see the many Engine blow ups, you will see the many issues with the oddy, you will see that many parts are not available anymore, you will see the technical skills needed to keep these machines running, you will see the dangers of over driving these machines.
Hint -- I hope you read that thread I posted above.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 6:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
OK. So CO may sound a little harsh but he is doing u a huge favor, many of his observations can be applied to almost any used off road vehicle.

I can see this playing out.
First disregard the wife's feelings..
Buy a odyssey that u think is a good deal (this is hard to find even if u have all the skills CO listed above)
Start throwing money at it,the less skills,tools,experience you have the cost keeps doubling.
After way too long and too much money invested it will live outside under a tarp until ur land lord tells u to move that junk.
If the wife hasn't left yet belive me she will be wishing she had and you will be a joy to be around with that constant reminder of ur unwillingness to listen sitting in the back yard just laughing at ya.

I understand you're interest in learning about something new to you and would never discourage anyone I just think there are better ways to get ur feet wet in the Engine,mechanical off road type of stuff.
A small dirt bike can be inexpensuve and semi easy to work on with limited tools (as a kid I kept my Yamaha IT175 going with little more then a China socket set).

Best of luck to you
Edd


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 14
Thanks for the welcome, guys. I’m eager to learn more about these

@canadian_oddy: I appreciate your concern for my safety. I read through the entire thread you linked to. That looked like a very nasty crash, but I’m glad to read that you were able to recover with minimal life-long issues. After seeing that, I’ll take your advise and not mess with the roll cage. Yes, I understand I will need to fork out a chunk of $$$$ to get one that is in good working order. I also understand that as old as these are, it will need a lot of work to keep it going and require a chunk of money, which I’m actually okay with. As for being able to afford it… All I can say is I can definitely afford one. I’m just trying to put priorities first, by purchasing a home. I’m saving to buy the FL350 not because I don’t have enough money (which I have enough many times over…. Which is why it’s so darn tempting to just go and buy one now), but also because the house budget is separate from the FL350 budget. Again, it has been insanely tempting to jump on the few good deals I’ve seen pop up, but as you said… it’s probably too good to be true. (BTW: I’m also several years older than 25 lol). I’m also not an entry level supervisor in an office. You ARE right about the office, but I’m actually a Systems Engineer, so I troubleshoot and configure routers, switches, and firewalls on a daily basis. I’m not trying to sound like an arse, but just wanted to correct your assumptions.


Just throwing the below out there for everyone, since the comments above lead me to believe you all may think I’m a doofus with no skills….

With all due respect to all the members on here, the assumption that I am not mechanically inclined is not correct. I can see how someone could conclude that, based upon the Facebook postings that was shared. I’ll be the first to admit that I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to engines, however, I’m not completely useless with mechanics. My co-worker and I did manage to install a 6.5” spindle lift (rear was just a 4” block) on my 3rd gen Tacoma, completely by ourselves in an afternoon. That required disassembling most of the front suspension including removing brake calipers and rotors to remove the wheel bearings. I also replaced my front struts with adjustable Bilstein 5100s, which required complete disassembly of both front strut assemblies. I managed to disassemble them only using a jack to compress and decompress the springs, while they were still in the truck (there’s a youtube video on it…. Worked beautifully, but my buddy was sketched out lol). I also do a little smalltime hobby gunsmithing. I have a bench top mini lathe from Harbor Freight, which I have used on numerous occasions to cut, thread, and recrown rifle barrels. I’ve even made some simple rimfire flash hiders (which I ported with a drill press…). The trickiest part with barrel work on a lathe, is making sure I am turning the barrel concentric to the bore, which is much easier to dial in with the aftermarket 4 jaw chuck I’ve been using. Only annoying thing about the whole operation is having to adjust the compound to 11 degree for cutting the new crown. There’s one other correct assumption… I don’t have a grinder, but I sure wish I did. I’ve also never welded, but want to buy one to learn on. The closest thing to welding I’ve ever done is soldering wires to a board (yeah I know completely different), and brazing a few gun parts (mainly just iron sights… still pretty different). With all that said, I’m just here to learn more about these machines, and hopefully develop some good contacts / friends.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 14
Thanks for the welcome, guys. I’m eager to learn more about these

@canadian_oddy: I appreciate your concern for my safety. I read through the entire thread you linked to. That looked like a very nasty crash, but I’m glad to read that you were able to recover with minimal life-long issues. After seeing that, I’ll take your advise and not mess with the roll cage. Yes, I understand I will need to fork out a chunk of $$$$ to get one that is in good working order. I also understand that as old as these are, it will need a lot of work to keep it going and require a chunk of money, which I’m actually okay with. As for being able to afford it… All I can say is I can definitely afford one. I’m just trying to put priorities first, by purchasing a home. I’m saving to buy the FL350 not because I don’t have enough money (which I have enough many times over…. Which is why it’s so darn tempting to just go and buy one now), but also because the house budget is separate from the FL350 budget. Again, it has been insanely tempting to jump on the few good deals I’ve seen pop up, but as you said… it’s probably too good to be true. (BTW: I’m also several years older than 25 lol). I’m also not an entry level supervisor in an office. You ARE right about the office, but I’m actually a Systems Engineer, so I troubleshoot and configure routers, switches, and firewalls on a daily basis. I’m not trying to sound like an arse, but just wanted to correct your assumptions.


Just throwing the below out there for everyone, since the comments above lead me to believe you all may think I’m a doofus with no skills….

With all due respect to all the members on here, the assumption that I am not mechanically inclined is not correct. I can see how someone could conclude that, based upon the Facebook postings that was shared. I’ll be the first to admit that I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to engines, however, I’m not completely useless with mechanics. My co-worker and I did manage to install a 6.5” spindle lift (rear was just a 4” block) on my 3rd gen Tacoma, completely by ourselves in an afternoon. That required disassembling most of the front suspension including removing brake calipers and rotors to remove the wheel bearings. I also replaced my front struts with adjustable Bilstein 5100s, which required complete disassembly of both front strut assemblies. I managed to disassemble them only using a jack to compress and decompress the springs, while they were still in the truck (there’s a youtube video on it…. Worked beautifully, but my buddy was sketched out lol). I also do a little smalltime hobby gunsmithing. I have a bench top mini lathe from Harbor Freight, which I have used on numerous occasions to cut, thread, and recrown rifle barrels. I’ve even made some simple rimfire flash hiders (which I ported with a drill press…). The trickiest part with barrel work on a lathe, is making sure I am turning the barrel concentric to the bore, which is much easier to dial in with the aftermarket 4 jaw chuck I’ve been using. Only annoying thing about the whole operation is having to adjust the compound to 11 degree for cutting the new crown. There’s one other correct assumption… I don’t have a grinder, but I sure wish I did. I’ve also never welded, but want to buy one to learn on. The closest thing to welding I’ve ever done is soldering wires to a board (yeah I know completely different), and brazing a few gun parts (mainly just iron sights… still pretty different). With all that said, I’m just here to learn more about these machines, and hopefully develop some good contacts / friends.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
NeedzMoarPower wrote:
Just throwing the below out there for everyone, since the comments above lead me to believe you all may think I’m a doofus with no skills….

With all due respect to all the members on here, the assumption that I am not mechanically inclined is not correct. I can see how someone could conclude that, based upon the Facebook postings that was shared. I’ll be the first to admit that I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to engines, however, I’m not completely useless with mechanics. My co-worker and I did manage to install a 6.5” spindle lift (rear was just a 4” block) on my 3rd gen Tacoma, completely by ourselves in an afternoon. That required disassembling most of the front suspension including removing brake calipers and rotors to remove the wheel bearings. I also replaced my front struts with adjustable Bilstein 5100s, which required complete disassembly of both front strut assemblies. I managed to disassemble them only using a jack to compress and decompress the springs, while they were still in the truck (there’s a youtube video on it…. Worked beautifully, but my buddy was sketched out lol). I also do a little smalltime hobby gunsmithing. I have a bench top mini lathe from Harbor Freight, which I have used on numerous occasions to cut, thread, and recrown rifle barrels. I’ve even made some simple rimfire flash hiders (which I ported with a drill press…). The trickiest part with barrel work on a lathe, is making sure I am turning the barrel concentric to the bore, which is much easier to dial in with the aftermarket 4 jaw chuck I’ve been using. Only annoying thing about the whole operation is having to adjust the compound to 11 degree for cutting the new crown. There’s one other correct assumption… I don’t have a grinder, but I sure wish I did. I’ve also never welded, but want to buy one to learn on. The closest thing to welding I’ve ever done is soldering wires to a board (yeah I know completely different), and brazing a few gun parts (mainly just iron sights… still pretty different). With all that said, I’m just here to learn more about these machines, and hopefully develop some good contacts / friends.


Well this appears to be a completely different person than what those fagbook posts seem to indicate.
It appears you have some mechanical skills. That's good because you will need it. There is a steep learning curve with these machines. Fortunately there is a tremendous amount of info on them here as well as some very skilled people. All of the flaws of these have been posted here on this site. You will need to do the vent mod, shock savers and various other stuff to get a reliable running machine. We can help you out with that IF you decide to buy one. Just remember the purchase price does not reflect the quality of the machine. If possible buy one from a guy here. You will notice that this site has over 3000 members but in reality only about 50 of us are regulars. Most disappear soon after signing on. They realize their dream cost more than they thought. If you decide to buy one on craiglist or similar then here is a list of things to look for:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468

Edit: I forgot a couple checks. 1) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot. 2) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2866
Location: East Peoria IL
Skip the FL350 and buy a FL400.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Before you buy a machine post some pics BEFORE YOU BUY. We will pick it apart based on what we see wrong and then you can make the call. If you see an ad with retarded statements like: Carb needs to be cleaned -- was running when I parked it -- just needs a new sparkplug -- starter don't work but pull start works fine -- brakes need to be bled or something similar then this would be an automatic NO BUY.
ALWAYS do a compression check BEFORE you hand over any cash.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
rmesser wrote:
Skip the FL350 and buy a FL400.


The Pilot has it's issues too and it cost twice the price of an oddy.
I think this guy wants an FL350 because of that movie.
Sounds like he is cheap too. :-)


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 12:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Maybe the Pilot has not been seen by the "movie guy"??

Here ya go ,https://utvactionmag.com/the-evolution-of-the-honda-pilot/ check it out , you might change your mind about the FL350 unless you just have your mind set on the "go Kart", LOL. the movie has kids riding the buggy but it definately not a toy even in stock form. Ive had many Fl350's and FL400 Pilots and if I had to do it all over again I would start with the Pilot. I found with the Pilots I had less to do to the machine after purchasing, no starter to rebuild, no need for the vent mod, stock clutch and shocks are sufficiant, no old ujoints breaking just Hoserize the Pilot CV joints, stock watercooled Engine, better suspension. Later can add long travel kit easier than a Odyssey. And if you NeedzMoarPower you can add CR500 top end to Fl400 bottom for a torque monster, or add the Farr Engine upgrade kit. heres a pic of my old LT Pilot, sure miss ol girl!!. Read posts here on the Pilot and decide for yourself.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 12:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Heres the infamous 80's Top Gun ripoff commercial



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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 2:17 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 7:33 am
Posts: 1070
More is in Georgia. I can probably lend a hand. Problem is these units barely ever come up for sale in Georgia. Only seen 3 pilots in 4 years two were junk and the third I bought which has needed a ton of tlc. Maybe 6-8 fl350 around in 4 years but none look too great. I bought one and it was a basket case axle breaking overheating fenderlesss heap.

There was an FL350 about 3 years ago that looked very nice with a 440 swap local for $2500 but it was sold then re-sold and vanished. It looked nice.

Best Buy out of state. Units not run in rough ga clay. I think they clay is tough on machines here. Sand seems better. The unit fs in Ohio sounds like a great starter machine.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:39 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
ZeroClient wrote:
More is in Georgia. I can probably lend a hand. Problem is these units barely ever come up for sale in Georgia. Only seen 3 pilots in 4 years two were junk and the third I bought which has needed a ton of tlc. Maybe 6-8 fl350 around in 4 years but none look too great. I bought one and it was a basket case axle breaking overheating fenderlesss heap.

There was an FL350 about 3 years ago that looked very nice with a 440 swap local for $2500 but it was sold then re-sold and vanished. It looked nice.

Best Buy out of state. Units not run in rough ga clay. I think they clay is tough on machines here. Sand seems better. The unit fs in Ohio sounds like a great starter machine.


Exactly.
Most of the machines I see here on the west coast are junk. Just looking at the pics posted I know they will need work and $$$. I also noticed that the few machines that are for sale are no longer available for $1500 like they were several years ago. The chimps now want $2500 plus for the same junk. I have seen some machines that were owned by previous members here, for sale in the same price range and I feel those are a bargain.
It's almost a certainty that More is going to have to go out of state to get a decent machine and that costs more money for transport. More appears to be a tight azz with the washingtons so he may pass on his dream. It is our job to clue in any new member here. Once the new guy is clued in he can make the call. We are not car sales men here. The problem with most people is that we just talk ourselves into a purchase. We see a hot blonde laying across the hood of the machine with no clothes on in a commercial. Then we go to the dealership and the first thing we DON'T see is a hooker laying on the hood for us. But we ignore that because the machine just looks so hot up close. We get a free test spin and it feels so good. It smells good too. We write the cheque.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
canadian oddy wrote:
ZeroClient wrote:
More is in Georgia. I can probably lend a hand. Problem is these units barely ever come up for sale in Georgia. Only seen 3 pilots in 4 years two were junk and the third I bought which has needed a ton of tlc. Maybe 6-8 fl350 around in 4 years but none look too great. I bought one and it was a basket case axle breaking overheating fenderlesss heap.

There was an FL350 about 3 years ago that looked very nice with a 440 swap local for $2500 but it was sold then re-sold and vanished. It looked nice.

Best Buy out of state. Units not run in rough ga clay. I think they clay is tough on machines here. Sand seems better. The unit fs in Ohio sounds like a great starter machine.


Exactly.
Most of the machines I see here on the west coast are junk. Just looking at the pics posted I know they will need work and $$$. I also noticed that the few machines that are for sale are no longer available for $1500 like they were several years ago. The chimps now want $2500 plus for the same junk. I have seen some machines that were owned by previous members here, for sale in the same price range and I feel those are a bargain.
It's almost a certainty that More is going to have to go out of state to get a decent machine and that costs more money for transport. More appears to be a tight azz with the washingtons so he may pass on his dream. It is our job to clue in any new member here. Once the new guy is clued in he can make the call. We are not car sales men here. The problem with most people is that we just talk ourselves into a purchase. We see a hot blonde laying across the hood of the machine with no clothes on in a commercial. Then we go to the dealership and the first thing we DON'T see is a hooker laying on the hood for us. But we ignore that because the machine just looks so hot up close. We get a free test spin and it feels so good. It smells good too. We write the cheque.

Yes, well put. I got lucky with my first fl350, drove only 4 hours to pick up. It was a good runner. I paid 3250. The next fl350 I bought as from an old member here. Also a good purchase drove about 3 hours for that one.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:39 am 
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Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Hey More. Speaking of purchasing from well known members of the forum. I bought a 1990 pilot from an old member here. I drove it for a couple years then sold it to another member here. He called me yesterday and said he was considering selling it. When I sold it to him it had good compression , he probably put 15 or 20 hours on it since then. It's a solid machine and I would purchase it back in a heartbeat if I was in the market for another pilot. Let me know if your interested. We can help with shipping. I would figure roughly $500 to ship with uship from Oklahoma to Georgia.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 14
canadian oddy wrote:
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468

Edit: I forgot a couple checks. 1) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot. 2) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.


Thanks for all the great information, man. I'm not going to lie, several of those things I'll have to youtube how to do, such as the Engine compression test. I've never done one, so it would be a learning process. Good tip on checking the j-arm bushings. Are those pressed in? If so, how much pressure? I had to press in some new bushings for the extended rear shocks on the Tacoma. However, I just improvised it with a table vise and some old sockets for pushers. If they are too hardcore pressed in, then I may just buy a bench top hydraulic press from HF. As for the rod ends, are you talking about the tie rods? If so, are these the replacements?
https://www.ebay.com/p/Tie-Rod-End-Kit- ... 290&chn=ps
Alternatively, these entire tie rod replacements look to be a good option, too. However, my concern would be dirt getting into the ball joint, and causing premature wear and eventual slop / play in the joint.
https://oddatv.com/product/honda-fl350- ... termarket/

canadian oddy wrote:
Before you buy a machine post some pics BEFORE YOU BUY. We will pick it apart based on what we see wrong and then you can make the call. If you see an ad with retarded statements like: Carb needs to be cleaned -- was running when I parked it -- just needs a new sparkplug -- starter don't work but pull start works fine -- brakes need to be bled or something similar then this would be an automatic NO BUY.
ALWAYS do a compression check BEFORE you hand over any cash.


Absolutely, and I appreciate the offer too, man! I'll definitely get you guys' opinion on the buggy before I buy it.

ZeroClient wrote:
More is in Georgia. I can probably lend a hand. Problem is these units barely ever come up for sale in Georgia. Only seen 3 pilots in 4 years two were junk and the third I bought which has needed a ton of tlc. Maybe 6-8 fl350 around in 4 years but none look too great. I bought one and it was a basket case axle breaking overheating fenderlesss heap.

There was an FL350 about 3 years ago that looked very nice with a 440 swap local for $2500 but it was sold then re-sold and vanished. It looked nice.

Best Buy out of state. Units not run in rough ga clay. I think they clay is tough on machines here. Sand seems better. The unit fs in Ohio sounds like a great starter machine.


I'd definitely appreciate some help. Good to know another Georgia member. What part of GA are you from? Yeah I've yet to find one available, here. I think I'd pay to ship the Ohio unit, before I'd drive up there. The cost of fuel, renting a trailer, and hotel stay would probably be more than going in person.


stix wrote:
Hey More. Speaking of purchasing from well known members of the forum. I bought a 1990 pilot from an old member here. I drove it for a couple years then sold it to another member here. He called me yesterday and said he was considering selling it. When I sold it to him it had good compression , he probably put 15 or 20 hours on it since then. It's a solid machine and I would purchase it back in a heartbeat if I was in the market for another pilot. Let me know if your interested. We can help with shipping. I would figure roughly $500 to ship with uship from Oklahoma to Georgia.


I had also been considering the Pilot, but I have no where to put anything I buy right now, other than a friend's house. I had also really had my sights on an FL350. I honestly like the look of them better. Your other Pilot with the paddle tires looked super badass, though. It's one of the best looking ones I've seen.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
The FL350 is a GREAT bang for your buck especially if you can get one that already has some upgrades like rear shocks, drive clutch, pipe... If I remember correctly the J-arm bushing are easily pressed out, no "hydraulic press" needed. The Ebay tie rod ends look correct but I would opt for the Odd ATV Heavy Duty tie rods, the exposed heims may squeak some but they are generally self lubricating, I had the Heavy Duty rods with the exposed rod ends and rode in sandy conditions and experienced no excessive wear. I have them on the front a-arms on my Tazcar. See pic ( circled in orange). We had an absolute blast at Little Sahara with the Fl350's and had a lot of fun restoring them! This is my old FL350 for sale thread viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7055&start=0


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:01 pm
Posts: 234
Location: Lansing Michigan
stix wrote:
Heres the infamous 80's Top Gun ripoff commercial




Amazing!


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Hey More -- your cheapness is showing again :-) .
You said: "Alternatively, these entire tie rod replacements look to be a good option, too. However, my concern would be dirt getting into the ball joint, and causing premature wear and eventual slop / play in the joint" ------ well I hate to tell you pal but like we have said before, these things cost money. Rod ends are like tires or drive belts. They are wear items and disposable. Each of these items has a specific life cycle time and then they are junk. It's just the cost of running a machine. Now add gas for the oddy AND your truck, add a trailer and insurance -- I think you get the picture. Dig deep More. But now we have to put this in perspective. A lot of guys go hunting and spend big bucks on a gun or two or three. Now add bullets, a scope, a hunting license, tags, and gas but you never hear a guy bitch. Some guys go golfing and spend big bucks on green fees but you never hear them bitch. It all depends on what you want, can afford and what you can clear with the wife. After all, any decision you make effects the entire household. NOTHING IS FREE.

By the way those are the entire steering rods and not just the rod ends I was talking about. Rod ends are cheaper than all that set up.
I will post some pics of a few damaged rod ends and what can happen in a few minutes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here is a pic of a busted rod end on the rear swing arm of my brothers machine.
You will notice that it happened during a long straight away and anytime my brother and I get on a straight we are really flying. Fortunately he said he could feel something wrong and dumped the throttle. As soon as he did that the wheel ripped off. I think I remember him telling me he hit a rock but not sure now as it happened a while ago. Luckily he did not go over the bank this time. We have crashed our machines or busted something almost every time we go out, honest. It has only been since I broke my back in that crash that we now back off on the high speed when in doubt.
If you drive like a ((Bad Word)) you can make your machine last but if you drive like your trying to win the championship, it's gona cost.
Due to family issues, the high snow pack in the mountains and my new 8hr 5day a week job, I don't know when we will be able to go on our first ride of this year. I have not had a 5 day a week job since 2002 LOL.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:45 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
One more


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:00 pm 
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Posts: 7709
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here are some pics of the rod ends off of my machines. Every machine I bought had worn out rod ends on the steering. Please note that is an .018 feeler gauge stuck in that rod end.


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