F-ing axles are stuck in the gear box! Tried all weekend to get them out.

Anyone got photos of homemade pullers or slide hammer setups. I know this is a common issue with these axles.

Baahahhaha like the photo.

Hoser made a puller for these years ago. You can see it here: http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=454

I would read everything carefully. Not sure but don't you have to do one side "before" you do the other ?? To prevent damage ?? Not sure about that though. Just thought I read it somewhere.

The typical Pilot problem if you don't take the axels out once a year and grease the splines.
CO

Thanks for the link CO!

You are correct, you are supposed to do the brake rotor side first as the other side is pretty much inaccessible.

-Curtis

You need an axle cup puller like this also rentable from auto zone places.

https://www.amazon.com/Attachment-Heat- ... B07STYL9MM

Then,

You thread a perfect fitting grade 8 bolt into the threaded part of the axle cup puller. Put something behind the puller/bolt in-between the bolt and the trans and screw it down. Make sure the bolt touches something that's not going to mess up the tranny case. This gets the left side axle out.

Right side axle I used a large puller from the left side holding on to the brake rotor mount. Push out the right side from through the tranny.

Its the only way I found that worked. Slide hammer failed. It needs to be solidly pressed out.

My way you should not need to take the axles apart.

yes, it's a mother effer, I fought and fought it, was finally able to get one side out, I think I used some tire spoons to help, I know that one side actually came out easier than the other, then the real battle began, I used an aluminum rod I think it was 1" diameter and a sledge hammer, it took maybe over a week to get out the other side had to turn it on it's side, fill the hold with PB Blaster penetrating oil, give it some whacks let it sit over night repeat, it may be able, I'm not very patient when it comes to that sort of thing. Hoser's post was a big help, I think I made a thread or just added to his.
Good luck

If I had to do this job then I would do it exactly the same as Hoser did it except that I would actually weld the puller right to the hub. I see no reason why a guy couldn't do that.
Also you have to do what Hoser did and make sure you weld a bead on the inside of that puller so that it fits in the groove. This will help with any slippage and will also help to keep the weld from cracking and breaking off.
The only thing I don't like about the Hoser set up is those straps welded on the hub clamp. They look a little thin to me. I would use 3/16". I say that because you need maximum shock and power transfer when you use a slide hammer.
You could also use a split collar instead of the Hoser homemade hub clamp but I still like his idea.
I also like the Hoser idea of building dam and then tipping the transmission on it's side and filling the area with PB blaster. Then let it sit overnight. You could use modelling clay instead of silicone.
Just my opinion.
CO

A lot of use have been through it. Take your time and be patient. Those axles and final are like gold.

Thank you for all the information guys!

I have been soaking them in PB Blaster for now and will have some time this weekend to work on it again. I will be patient with them and chip away at it when I have free time. This is the gearbox for my FL600 build so I have plenty of time to figure this out. I will be sure to update with any progress.

Cheers, Curtis

I prefer Kroil

I'm sure you plan to servicing the axles - might as well go ahead and open the inside boots and take the big ring out and remove the axles from the inside cups. It will make it much easier to work on.

Also if you do use a slide hammer you need to mount the gearbox so it does not easily move. Deflection will eat up the force you apply.

I’ll have to pick up a can of that.

I was thinking about this all day and went to the shop quick after work. I started to make my own puller for the rotor side of the gearbox. I need to drill some holes and pick up hardware to bolt it up. With a little more effort I am thinking can use this as a puller with a slide hammer like hozer has done. I was also thinking of welding four 1/2” (or larger) grade 8 nuts to the top of it evenly. I could then run a bolt through each applying pressure to the brake rotor hub. Maybe that with the combination of the slide hammer? Thoughts?

The angle iron looks like a good idea. I like the way it goes behind the cup. You probably have a plan, but I’m having trouble seeing how you will center that angle iron Down to a slide hammer. Looking forward to seeIng your design. The clamp style always slides off.

Keep in mind the main thing you need to do is compress the cir clip down into the groove so the stub will slide out. IMO the main problem is the rust and debris that is in the groove stopping the cir clip from compressing. Also IMO it is better to work the cir clip and displace as much of the debris as possible. When you do get the stub out you will probably see marks on it from the splines of the final. I guess what I’m trying to say is take your time and work the cir clip rather than trying one large amount of brute force. And believe it or not part of working the cir clip is actually driving the stub back in every now and then. Kinda like using a hand tap, you make a few cuts then back the tap out a bit and repeat. Brute force will just break the tap.

I even went as far as clamping a concrete vibrator to my cup in an attempt to work the debris free. Not sure if helped or not, but I got mine out without damage.

Food for thought.

With the silicone dam on the other side I will be able to keep that side soaking. Other than continuously spraying the rotor side I don’t see a way to get it to really soak in penetrating oil. I am going to service the axles while it’s all apart and will remove them this weekend. I understand what you’re saying about working the cup in and out to loosen up the rust & debris. From the 2 uprights of the angle iron I would extend a little bit and then Y up to the slide hammer. I thought it would be good to get behind the cup vs trying to clamp it. I did consider welding right to the cup like co said but will save that for last resort. I need to think of a good way to secure the gearbox while I work on it like you suggested. I was considering ratchet strapping it to something solid.

I looked up the tool zero suggested but it said it would arrive till mid June to July. Probably from China. I might try renting one when the time comes.

What you have made there is real good idea and angle iron is cheap so I would make two of those units. However the second unit would have a chain that would be tied to an "I" beam in your shop or the trailer hitch on your pickup truck. That second unit of coarse would be behind the other axle.
With the slid hammer on the first axle you would effectively be trying to pull the whole rig apart. It would be solid.
CO

I have had this vision in my head about making up a hydraulic jack powered,Double CVJ spreader, spreading 2 plates,1 each around the cv's.
Had it for years...but never got into it...cept now!
They can be held on to the cv's via a 2 part clamp.The main is welded semi circle plate with threaded ends to accept the top clamp like a crank mains cap.
This way ALL the tension/forces are into the Trany final drive shaft,and NOT against the alu cases,bearings etc.
When both vertical plates are holding the CVJ,they go down into a L shape that slides along a stout channel.
Inbetween these L shaped CVJ holders is the Hyd Jack spreading them apart and consequently forcing both CVJ's away from eachother.
The only force is axialy thru the trany final drive shaft
Neutralizing any adverserse forces onto the cases,bearings etc...Make sense?

You have posted that before and I am surprised no one has built that yet.
I know you posted it before because I copied and pasted that to my computer.
The only issue I could see with it is that there is not much room between the transmission casing and the back of the CV. This would surely bend the limited size metal because the hydraulic jack must be below the transmission for clearance. Maybe those gussets go all the way up -- not sure based on that drawing. This would also put more pressure on the bottom side of the CV than the top. I'm with you on this though, hydraulics is the way to go when a guy needs power.
CO

Edit: We had that exact same rig on a job I was at. It was used to press pins in and out of a sharpe chain.
CO

NO ------ FKN NO I SAID !!!!!!!!!!

You will bend it and then the brake rotor won't turn true.
Maybe even bust it.

NO I SAID.
CO

It you tightly and squarely wedge something behind the rotor to the transmission then that should work without bending anything

I agree but why take a risk.
Really like bugeye59's hydraulic puller idea.
The forces would be even like he said. No load on any components in the transmission.
I also now see what he has drawn there. There is no metal behind the CV, it's a clamp system. I just had to read it slow. If the clamp system slips you could put a spot weld on the CV and that would be the end of any slippage.
CO

I like bugeye59 hydraulic press as well. At first I didn't understand how you would get it behind the cv cups, especially on the left side. I can now see that it clamps to both of he CV's. At this time, I don't want to invest the time to make that. It would have to be very rigid to work well. I have also put my puller on hold for now. I have removed the axles and have the left side soaking in PB blaster. I can't get either side to even budge a smidgen right now. I have ordered some of the Kroil and will switch to that for when it arrives. I am going to soak it for 2 weeks and try to work the left side out this way. I am hoping that the penetrating oil will eventually work its way through the shaft and start working the other side free as well. I'll be giving it a spray or 2 daily and be whacking it with a rubber mallet for the time being.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

LOL

I won't let you down!

Right side out!

I had some movement in it yesterday and was able to get it out today. There was some nasty rust in there but the shaft and the cv cup look to be good. After cleaning it all out, I got the other side soaking in PB now.

Soaking it in PB and hitting it with the rubber mallet was enough got gain movement in the CV cup. Once I had movement with the CV I then began to work up and down in hopes to free up rust and debris. While spinning the cv around I would apply pressure to it and try to work it upward, push it back down, and repeat. After awhile it was enough to pop out.

You did it! Dam good feel when you realized it was loose, wasn’t it.

Looks to be in good shape.

I would replaced cir clips when you reassemble.

So, do ya use copper anti seize , aluminum anti seize, or just grease?

I can’t remember, do have OEM seals? Make sure you grease the groove of the seal.

It does feel good.

I'm not sure what to use to be honest. The aluminum anti seize seem to be everyone's go-to. I am open to suggestions.

I have 2 of the seals new OEM but have not found the left hand out put shaft yet. I'll probably will go with an aftermarket for that one if I don;t have any luck finding one. I just ordered get a gasket kit as well.

I need #19.... anyone??? 91254-HE0-003

Colonial seal ltd shows it: https://www.colonialseal.com/search.php ... _https=yes
Drop a dime.
CO