adnoh. Been looking it to this mod for a while now. As per your pic / Diagrams it all looks good. But you would have Binding in travel and rotation. Over the years I have see a lot of different Ideas. The Best one was from Speedchaser His safety link see pic The only way to make this work and work well is to have the Heim Joints inline with the center of the Uni Joints on the Axles

Now many years ago I brought a frame Roller with a 3 point rear linkage setup. Now the Wheel moved vertical only NO Arc the Idea was great but the Welding was SH!t. I ended up stripping for parts I still have the frame and the tie rods but never realy pursued it I doesn't that much to do this. You rotate the Suspension arm 180deg and tie rod to the frame and the lower Tie rod frame to inside lower corner of the rear trailing arm.

Food for thought.

Wyeeoddy

Good info.
Wonder if anyone has done it, single rod
Would be good info for others.
I like the idea of doing two and getting rid of the other arm.
If done like yours I think I would move the hub rearward some unless it causes issues with the u joints.

Maybe you guys can help me understand the problem.
What is the problem here ??

The oddy suspension is fully functional. It works.
No way to change the stroke length with those u-joints unless we run longer axels or cv's.
To me and my way of thinking is that the real issue is spring rate and shocks when it comes to oddy suspension.
The speedchaser safety link appears to be a vanity thing.
We want our job to look more professional than a chain covered in shrink tube, and yet that is fully functional as well and works great. It has been proven to me at least twice now on my machines.
Looking pretty only really matters when you want to nail miss July.

The shock issue can be a complicated one.
Adnoh did a great job in one of the threads posted on spring rates. It was awesome.
The one thing I did notice was that it made a BIG difference if you were running shocks that still had the factory gas in them or if you bled out that pressure while you changed the seals. This change made a big difference in the spring needed.
My brothers machine still has the original stock oddy shocks with gas that do not leak.
He runs a #135 spring and it feels right.
My machine has the original shock with the gas bled out because of replaced seals.
Adnoh suggested (I think) a #140ish spring so I ran a #145 because that's all I could get. It seemed soft. So I put these on the death machine (gas bled out shocks) with a bunch of preload.
I now run a #160 spring on my machine but it seems a bit snug. I made a mistake here and should have run a #150 - #155.
Also of note is that I run as little sag as possible because of the terrain we ride in, I need the travel. No doubt that makes a big difference. I noticed that difference as soon as I changed the Adnoh recommended set up.
CO

CO, no problems with a safety chain. Anything is better then nothing.
I may be wrong and if please correct me.
With the 350 , the axle assembly is what's keeps the rear hub/ tailing arm from rolling out which breaks the shock or parts of it. If that's not right sorry.

I was thinking as things get wear there more play which may be stressing the shock any other parts. So I thought if there was a stiff rod that did not allow or minimize the roll out taking stress off of the axle,gear case and shock. Two rod ends, a piece of tube and a few bolts no more broken shock or less chance of. This would also free up a lot of the lateral force's acting on the drive line and bearings, case and mounts. Less resistance on parts the better and longer they last. This would not require any major redesign into a four five link set up either. I ran 350's for five years with out any thing going wrong and never had any issues however they were all new and a long time ago.

Most likely if you replace the shock eye with a new one you'll be fine. What's the fun in that. I'm I right.

A lot of beautiful county to see why wrench in the field. Plus you can share more cool pics.

Oh don't get me wrong here. I'm not challenging anyone or the theory behind whats going on in the drive line.
I was just making a point that chains work and it's not over complicated engineering.
Don't get me wrong, the speedchaser or adnoh ideas are cool, it's just lots of engineering and measuring. Get it wrong and there will be a problem.
CO

I found this short video on youtube that shows exactly what you were talking about adnoh. Seems like the best way for a shock saver, however the terrain I ride on is similar to CO. If a rock comes up and bends the link it could cause extra wear and damage to the other components -- possibly breaking something. I am considering doing this but am still on the fence. Thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rykJHQ3SGeI

Cool thanks for the video.
Took a pic to post.
You make a good point on damage. Looking at video I would also think the axle would take the hit first or do you another thought on the issue of damage to the new rod.
What if ?? A skid plate of deflation plate could be incorporated into the equation to help protect both. Keeping weight mad fabrication miniumal.
The pilot ones have seen damage from hits like you describe. Ummm.
One item on damage if encountered is a simple adjustment in the rod can be a temp fix. Or remove and truck on. I'm going to study the video a little more. Any one know if the person in video is a member for his comments and thoughts.

This was my idea 5 years ago.
It's basically the same design style as speedchaser.
It's a floating link with a maximum limit travel. I didn't go further with this and it was just an idea.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15245&hilit=saver

CO

My bad