Hi Folks, New guy to the forum here who is looking to buy a Honda ATV so the kids and I can have some fun raging around a track we're building at a small hay farm we have. Having never owned a Honda ATV other than 3 wheelers back in the late 70's-early 80's I'd like your input on what to look for on the Odyssey ATV's. Any common weak areas I should be concerned about? Owner said he's owned this 350 for 2 years and his kids just aren't driving it as much as his 4 wheelers. Says it starts up and runs good with a 5 or 6 point harness (can't remember...probably 5). Thanks in advance for any input! Asking $3200.

Below is an important thread with all the info you need:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393&p=177700#p177700
CO

By the way --- welcome new guy.
Please post some pics of that machine you are planning to buy.
This is important because many times we can see things and warn you.
$3500 seems to be a going price for the FL350 but most of the time they require a lot of work and more money. Pics help us with this.
CO

Thanks for the input. I’ll try and post a screenshot I took of the ad.

Looks like a nice 350 and in good shape... Good plastics and seat.
Based on the one picture, I would say that is a fair price.
The seatbelt looks original, should probably get replaced before any real riding is done.

350s can get some frame cracks under the Engine cradle, on the horizontal bar that runs behind the seat, but usually, that only becomes a problem with high HP Engine swaps, I believe.

I agree too.
The frames do crack though even without a high HP Engine. One of my machines needed repair in that spot.
But at the end of the day it looks good. Does not appear to have been rolled because the main roll hoop is straight and the roof lid looks undamaged.
You better do a pressure/vacuum test before you even start that thing again. A lot of FL350 machines have cracked intake boots. That'll lean out your Engine and blow it. Also you have no idea what condition the crank seals are in. Pressure/vacuum test.
Follow the guide posted above before you buy it or make an offer.
You need to check the J arm bushings, steering rod ends, brakes (do they work ??) and does transmission work (forward & reverse) (NO oil leak). What does the gas tank look like inside ?? Is it rusted ??
CO

Thanks again for the input! I’ve never done a pressure/vacuum check but I’m going to go look at the thread now. If it failed the test, how much would you deduct fo cover time/parts in fixing it? Also read if it was revved in neutral too much it could damage tranny bearings and ruin the AB which isn’t available anymore. What is an AB? Any work arounds? Hate to drop $3k+ and end up with something non-repairable. Please educate me! Thanks again for the responses!

If you fail a pressure test, then you have to go over your Engine with some soapy water or something similar to find what is leaking. Could be a head gasket, base gasket, crank seals, intake/exhaust manifold, etc. some of those can be fixed relatively easily, others will take some doing.
Like CO mentioned, the rubber intake boot on the 35 y/o Odysseys can crack causing a large air leak, lean running Engine and if let go, a blown up Engine.

The AB is a gear inside the transmission, (or 2 gears, A and B that are 1 piece), there is/are needle bearings inside these gears that can run dry if the transmission is revved in neutral (because it is a splash-lube system, if the bottom gears are not moving, no oil will get splashed), when the bearing fails, the gear will usually also fail. Most people overfill the transmission which can help, but the best way is to limit how much you rev the Engine in neutral, then you probably won't have any issues.

As long as you do the pressure test, and pass it, and are somewhat careful, you probably won't have any issues.
Definitely want to read up as much as you can so you know what you are getting into.

See CO recommendations here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=16857
Also the CSI section has good info hidden throughout: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewforum.php?f=26

I admit I'm probably behind the times now, but I feel like $3200 is about $800-1000 too high.

I feel that location has a lot to do with price on these machines. Where I live on the east coast you can expect to see $2500-$3500 for a decent running/stopping machine. The one in the photo is in very nice original condition. The front bumper isn't even smashed in.

West cost they seem to sell for cheaper. Probably more common.

Thanks all for your input. I appreciate it. Not sure the seller will be willing to let me do a pressure check on his Engine. I don’t have the hardware...I could easily get it, but fabricating an exhaust cover might be more than he’s willing to do...I think finding something to plug the intake might take some time too. Any advice on a plug...plenty of unloved kid toys around here, might find something to fit (lol). I LOVE the idea of doing it and will ask if he’s willing to help as it looks like he had a shop...he is 2 1/2 hrs away too. A Pilot came up for sale too for 7-8K and I was thinking of looking at that too. Maybe buy both so my son and I can ride at the same time! Thanks again for all the great info!

The problem with buying anything used is that you don't really know what you are getting until it's at home and you have an opportunity to really get at it.
These machines were made in 1985 so it's unlikely you are gona just be able to jump in it and drive it like you stole it.
It's unlikely this guy will allow you to pull the machine apart to do a pressure test. Also there is a danger you could blow his crank seals out and he may know that.
The important things to do here right now is a compression test as it will tell you a lot, a brake test if it's driveable, and a foreword/reverse test.
If you start the Engine and it races away like a jet Engine then you know there is an air leak and it could be crank seals, intake or other air leak. If it idles fine then you're probably golden on this Engine.
Below is a pdf of a leak down test if you are really intent on doing it and seller allows. Be very mindful of the max pressure you put in or you blow the seals out of the crank.
At the end of the day I think you will be doing some work on this thing as I already see that it has NO shock savers and it appears the rear springs are stock so you WILL be buying another set of those.
I also see NO wrist restraints so you WILL be buying a set of those too.
CO

Edit: Also here is a thread I did just recently on pressure tests.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20649
CO

Thanks CO. Appreciate all the info. I really need to get set up to do pressure/vacuum tests. Just something I haven't done yet but I definitely see the usefulness in it. I'll take a compression tester and the list of things to check which was in a thread. Thank you guys for all the input. Your site is very easy to upload photos on. I still have my high school car...a '71 340 Plymouth Duster and when I upload photos to its forum it's a major pain...so kudos to your website manager! I'm sending a text to the FL350 owner to see if I can get more pictures and I'll be sure to upload them if he sends more. Thanks again!

Just an update...asked seller to send more pictures and he agreed to when he got home. Haven't seen any more and message to him went unanswered. Hopefully he's ok. FL350 still for sale online. Being what it is, I'm looking for other options. One fella up in N Texas has a Honda Pilot for sale for $7200. Was hoping to spend a little less on one. Would like 2 machines so my son (9 yrs old) and I can ride together. Max budget is $10K, but less is better. Won't be riding every day, more occasionally like a few times a month. Like it big enough for him to use throughout high school. He drives my Kubota 900 RTV and is pretty careful, but I'd like a full roll cage just in case he (or I) get a little carried away. If anyone has any suggestions on what would be a good machine for us I'm open to ideas. The only machines we have ruled out is the cheap chinese machines which appear to have a terrible reliability rating and even poorer customer support. Thanks for any suggestions.

IMO, for a pilot you should be able to hold out and find one closer to $6K unless this one is either immaculate like show room or it has upgrades like long travel and rotax Engine.

Thanks for the input. My search has slowed as a tie rod broke on my Kubota 900 RTV... what a pain to change out. Don’t think it was engineered too well as it happened to the guy who owned it before me. Looks like some impurities in the metal at the break point... so maybe not all engineering.

I agree. Be patient and wait for a Pilot.

Where are you located?