Lightspeed has WORKS on the rear of his Pilot, after sending them back to WORKS for adjustment 2 or was it 3 times they actually 'work' really well, if you get a set from WORKS you need to tell them you want the setup like he has for years WORKS was sending out rear shocks that did NOT work as well as the stock shocks., Lightspeed spent the time to get them right.

Most of the fox set up for the rear require fender cutting and new mounts higher up like ATV racing. The extended lenght # for twelve shaft travle at a 1 to 1 ratio is why. I had to have customs shocks made to fit and rework rear arms to achieve the tralve at a given ratio so it looks stock some what. If you use fox and atvr arms and axles the droop is limited due to cv bind so the shock mount must be risen to the extended eye of the shock just before cv bind. I have been playing with an Idea to fix this but is slow going. Another issueis what Cowboy called crazy camber when the atvr arm goes into full droop. The angle and position on upper arm were the ball joint pivot is can be changed to fix alot of it and then than its gets into cv bind after a couple more inches. This is why I had to change the rear arm pivot location and angle modifing the stock arm. This also allowed me to move the carrier rear wards helping take some of the kick out of the rear, this also streches it out a littel helping with the choppy fell between woops. This changes the CG ( center of gravity). If your shocks do have low speed adjustibality you can not control lift and roll angle as easy. My wifes pilot is getting long travle usingnew set up. Whochis a plus two set up and nine inch all the way around I have the front done. In the front I used the stock arms stock works getting 9" with no bump steer kit. I made some adjustment to account for the bump( toe change). I have yet to dial in the shock for the leverage change yet. I have also woeked up a bump kit for the same travle with very little bump. What I hope to achieve is a arm change to plus 2 and a bump kit for it. This will allow for stock or plus 2, 9" travle no bump and plus two 9 or 11" travle with bump. Hope to have done this fall. I hope to shock worked out by then The MFG giving me a little static on price.

Heres a short vid of the bump kit mock up. What I would like to do it keep it narrow for woods and increase the travle. 6" to 9" aint bad for stock. I'm working on a rear kit for stock width to get 8.5 to 9. The shock will be fully adjustable as well. I also added caster adjustability to stock arms.

Heres some pics of teh travle # on the stock 9. I know you ask for rear. I will post up as I proceed. Sounds like the yoda is the way to go in front as far as replacemnets for purchase if your not going with ATVR. For hacker low budget stuff it cost me around 4 dollors to modify the stock using works. As far as my stuff goes I do sell nothing. I just share and thow ideas out there. Heck the board will help refine just about any idea or bash the heck out it, either way fun to do.

Got me, in the motion ratio? that's how it all measured up...

Try this link http://pilotodyssey.com/FOXshoxmounts.htm

I'm kinda lost. I have been playing with stock set up I can only get 8.5 and that after reworking the rear arm and reworking the I rods as well The stock cv's and ball joint bind would not allow me any more. I quess you could go more but your rear frame would bottom as the tires compressed. Does "H" have a secert he wants to share. This based on a 1 to 1 ratio. Maybe I need to keep working.

I'll share some mock up pics for a little help. This also move hub to the rear a little allowing for a better arc of the hub during bump

No secret to share put the Pilot on jack stands and remove the shock, stand on the suspension to get it to full droop, rotate the axle no CV bind, put a jack under suspension and take it up until the upper arm contacts the frame, no CV bind.

That pivot point you relocate, the tab on my arms keeps bending perhaps it needs relocated or leaving it bent is good enough?

I did grind down the over sized gob of weld on the upper arm where it contacts the frame so it will quit bending my frame.

No you will need to mod the front shock brackets, you can get the brackets with the YODA kit or maybe YODA will sell just the brackets if you wanted to use them on stock front arms?

Never gave any thoughts to a bolt on kit for the rear I am sure something could be designed like the YODA front brackets.

viewtopic.php?t=3810

When I ran into a problem with my new rear LT on mine. I had to build a shock relocate that moved it up an inch because I struggled with the math and the new shock was built to long. Granted this was with the longer shock on a plus 2 arm. This relocate would also work with the stock arm. What I did to clear fender as not to cut and maintain look was to space it out at its mount starting with the most forward and increase width working back to clear new mount. When I rework the rear arm It allowed me to remove the the bracket and put the long shock to stock mount.

I would say it would be ok to raise it up some as long as its not to much and creates to much shear force on the exhisting frame mount or a stiffner may need to be added back to rear roll bar supprt and with a tie bar across. The other issue may be tire rub on shock. One would need to mack sure the clearence is there if moved out. I would work from full droop ( extended) at cv bind than subtract 1/2 and see if the stroke can be accumlished to full bump (compressed). Rember to do this with rear tire bolted up and valve core removed and a 2x4 ( 1-1/2) see if frame hits before shock is at full bump. If it hits bord before full bump you run the risk of back injury at full bump with out a additional bump stop.

I moved mine straight up when I extended mine and the FOX AIR 2.0 just clear the stock tires and rims using the stock arms, I run rubber shock boots to keep rock dings off the shafts and at full compression the tires rub holes in the boots slightly, that being said I think with the stock length arms your bracket will probably rub the stock tire rim.

If I ever did this mod again (move the stock mounts up) I would also move the hole location in board at least 1/4" maybe even 3/8 " not sure if their is anything gained or lost going more?

The rubbing on mine is not really an issue they are cheap shock boots used on 4x4 truck shocks not some expensive shock covers...

Thanks for the info "H" I will go play a little using your method to see if it helps solve an issue. If I use the +1 or +2 rear arm this may allow for a 8.5 shaft travle changing the lever ratio for 9" of travle.

DID YOU order a kit from YODA by chance?

Get a few people to jump on the rear and compress the suspension I think you will find the tire will rub the shock.

You going to add some support so that new bracket (now a lever) does not try to break the orignal mount and twist the frame?

It looks good I hope it works out for you it would be a quick and simple mod..

Its a motion ratio just like a rear swingarm on a quad the shock will move 4" and the swingarm travel is 9", I always took my measurements at the end of the end of the axle by the big nut.

Keep an eye on the arm hitting the frame where the arrow is under full compression might look like its going to clear in the shop but hit a few big jumps then look for the dent in the frame.

Usually their is a GOB of nasty looking robot weld on the top of that arm, take a grinder and smooth it out for more clearance.

I am not sure if it will clear the frame after you grind the weld down or not, when I discovered this mine had already dented the frame tube but I ground the welds down anyways, the dent in the frame didnt seem to hurt anything its more of a cosmetic thing how ever if your weld was 1/4" taller than mine your dent would be much deeper

Grind it down and hoist it up again to see what the clearance is.

The trick thing about these shocks is you can tune them, once installed you can play with the oil level in the shock and the nitrogen pressure, if the shock bottoms you can add oil so it builds more pressure as the shock compresses, remember the pressure is your spring or spring rate, further the shaft travels in the higher the spring rate, the more oil you add the FASTER the pressure will rise because the oil is taking up volume in the shock, you can add enough oil to make the shock hard as a rock (well almost) before it bottoms out.

Been to this page yet?
http://pilotodyssey.com/fox-home.htm

Its all the info I have compiled over the years, if you have something to add let me know please.

I am other customer you are referring to-YUP!!!NUMBER 4 for me,love the kit with the LT and the FOX AIRS, nice and soft for the trails,just my liking.

I am currently looking for some bolt in shocks, like a set of WORKS,elkas are way to much(1200.00 was the last price tag I saw)did you happen to do any research on them by chance?

Define "to soft" you need to increase the spring rate?

You bottoming them out all the way?

Would you mind making me a set of these? I put in some serious riding and could test them???

OK I will look forward to it!!!

Does FOX make a set that will fit the Pilot without mods to the upper brackets?

Hi my name is Jake and IM a new parts whore I don't mind trying out new parts comes from my racing days I cant help it............... I have tried just about every Pilot shock made I will give you my opinion (which doesnt mean much)

4x4 tuff offroad Works shocks suck to stiff. http://store.4x4tuff.com/po18.html

ATVR Works shocks suck to stiff. http://atvracing1.com/shocks.htm

I tried a set of fox Floats I think they where off the front of a DS650 sucked way to stiff. http://www.foxracingshox.com/atv/sport/FLOAT_R

chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) sports Works G series best shock of all right out of the box smooth ride soft but not to soft that it bottoms out easy. I do like my suspension soft as can be without bottoming out that way you get the full rang of motion let the shock do the work not the sidewall or your back. http://www.chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com/ca ... page=Pilot

That being said I don't like the way he treated Turbo and others man up swallow your pride and make it right if you did the right thing you would get a ton more business. life is to short and there are not many of us Pilot Odyssey owners left.

The Redline Revolt came with Fox 2.0's I love them on the Revolt and Im sure I would love them on the Pilot just havent fabbed mounts and tried fitting them to a Pilot.

I bought a set of Elkas from Weed they are just sitting on my shelf I will report back after I install and test them. http://www.pilotodysseyperformance.com/ ... uspension'

Works rears suck if you order a set you need to tell them you want the Lightspeed settings, he sent his back 3-4 times until they got them right, I remember Pilot guys back in 95-97 telling me that the WORKS for the front were great but the rear sucked, thing about any shock is when you buy you have to be ready to take them off and send them back within the 30 days free adjustment period if you want them right. Lightspeeds shocks actually "WORKS"


Pretty sure WORKS was told to use the Lightspeed setting for their new baseline hard telling if they listen or not.

My FOX airs came a mile off I called and talked to the guy he said send them back, I asked him to send me the valve shims and I would change them myself, it was a win win situation for both of us saved them shop time and shipping charges, I ended up with a bunch of extra shim stacks to play with in the future, and I did play with them

The Fox Floats for a 00-06 DS650 part# 830-52-200 are a half inch shorter than stock (i believe going by memory) I thought they would work because the DS650 weighs 500lbs and all the weight is on the rear of the Pilot I thought they might even be a little soft but I was wrong because of the leverage, the shock mounts farther out to the wheel on the Pilot which creates more leverage needing a softer spring rate. I need to give Fox all the suspension measurements and let them revalve them or figure out how to do them myself and Im sure they will be fine.

Also these do not bolt right on you have to make two slight adjustments.

The mount on the frame and knuckle are wider than the shock eyes you can make spacers or stack washers up on each side.

And on the upper frame mount the shock body rubs a little so you have to clearance it with a hammer, not to much just a little.

And the 2.0's are 4" longer (going by memory) so you have to raise the shock mount.