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 Post subject: Mikuni TM 38mm CSI
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Here is a Mikuni TM 38mm I will CSI

Plenty of dirt on the outside, plenty of wear on the slide or at least enough to remove the coating they put on the slide.

Notice the choke shaft is bent?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Plenty of dirt inside.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
On the side the carb has stamped T38, looking in the Engine side of the carb it looks like it was over bored, the machine work does not look factory and measures 41mm so I assume its been bored to 41mm.

So far the as found jetting is as follows
420 main
6FJ40 needle
A number on the slide is 4.0
Starter jet is a 40
Pilot jet jet is a 35


The carb has a power jet it has a 110 jet

Fuel inlet valve (needle and seat) is a 3.5


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:02 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Plenty of crap above the inlet needle and seat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I gave up trying to get a clear pic of the inlet seat, crap on it also, the O ring is flat and hard, the needle did not hold I will clean the seat and needle and grease the O ring and try it again if it don't hold then the seat will need replaced.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:09 pm 
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Location: Chicago
This baffle plate thingie is not even shown on the diagram at Sudco, anyways its broke.

http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exptm.gif


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:13 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Its been rubbing on the float, I wonder if its been driving someone nuts trying to jet their Engine or set the fuel level.... I wonder if it could cause a fuel starvation problem and stick a piston? I think the owner said the Engine this carb came from had a history of sticking....

It needs replaced I guess I can see if I can weld it with the tig OR JB weld OR solider it. I think my first attempt will be to solider a small splint on it, if that don't work I think JB will be the way to go since I am pretty sure soon as I hit it with the tig it will blow a big hole :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
My son's 2006 Honda cr125 has a mikuni carb and I don't like it... looks odd since I have only used and like the kien (sp?) ones... Hoser would you mind looking over this website for me? they offered my son a sponsorship program (50%) discount for Dad LOL!!!
http://www.proworksracing.com/index.html
Keep photodocumenting the carb rebuild I may need to do his one day...
opinions on powerjet and boring out the carb???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
TM 38mm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Fleetwood,Pa
I will be watching this closely as I have a TM on my Ody & have always had headaches with it.Mine has the side idle adjustment & no power jet.I am interested in opinions on the power jet.
Thanks
Shubey


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Fleetwood,Pa
I also don't remember the baffle plate thingie in mine
shubey


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 3:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
My carb is the same on my Ex ATV R LT500.
They are called the Pro Series 41,which as Hoser stated is the 38 bored out to 41mm.
Funny tho,that my baffle is broken in the same place,obviously not enough side meatal to resist twisting on removal and assembly. I too overhauled mine. They are deff not as easy to work on as the Keihin's.

http://www.sudco.com/vol33/38.pdf


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
bugeye59 wrote:
My carb is the same on my Ex ATV R LT500.
They are called the Pro Series 41,which as Hoser stated is the 38 bored out to 41mm.
Funny tho,that my baffle is broken in the same place,obviously not enough side meatal to resist twisting on removal and assembly. I too overhauled mine. They are deff not as easy to work on as the Keihin's.

http://www.sudco.com/vol33/38.pdf


What did you do to fix or replace your baffle?

I wonder if shubey's baffle is missing because it broke also?

What jetting are you guys running?

Yours have a power valve?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Just cleaned it up and soldered,then filed flat.
Needle 6FM46
Needle Jet R8
Main Jet #490
Needle n Seat 3.5
Slide 4.0
Pilot Jet #55
Mine does'nt have the power valve,but does have the drill outs,provision for it.
They normally don't have the Air Jet also...in the front venturi.
I have been looking for all my ol' links that I gathered for that carb,but can't find most of them due to puter crash once.
Also the links that I do have ,don't come thru anymore. Sorry.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
bugeye59 wrote:
Just cleaned it up and soldered,then filed flat.
Needle 6FM46
Needle Jet R8
Main Jet #490
Needle n Seat 3.5
Slide 4.0
Pilot Jet #55
Mine does'nt have the power valve,but does have the drill outs,provision for it.
They normally don't have the Air Jet also...in the front venturi.
I have been looking for all my ol' links that I gathered for that carb,but can't find most of them due to puter crash once.
Also the links that I do have ,don't come thru anymore. Sorry.


Thanks for the info.

In the future feel free to dump the links here as a backup for if your computer crashes, just start a thread 41mm pro series or what ever and post the info, then if you crash you can search here to recover your info.... :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:29 pm 
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Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I soldered up that bracket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Now it wont rub the float arm.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:32 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Always a good source for crap to enter a carb is from around the cable.

I have seen this on dozens of carbs over the years.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
My fix is to find a TIGHT fitting piece of hose to replace the crappy OEM rubber thing, you want it so tight you have to cuss it on, you will want to oil or grease the cable because it will be so tight.

The tube in the pics is way longer than he will need, you only need about 1" to 1.5" long piece, if the tube is not super tight on the cable once the cable is adjusted you can put a zip tie around it to snug it up, bottom line is close off that path the dirt can travel.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:37 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Not only does the dirt get into the slide where the cable connects it also migrates into the slide bore and into the Engine, their is no shortage of places for the dirt to hide in a TM carb, I used a full 16oz can of carb cleaner and compressed air flushing this crap out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
This plastic piece reminds me of the plastic piece on the PWK carbs the spring holds it into place, I wonder if its as much of a pain in the ass as the PWK to seat it ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
One thing I really didnt like and it reminds me of why I never cared for mikuni carbs is the poor quality castings and the poor machining, the low acceptance level, I wonder if they even employ a QC department lol You wanted cheap you got it when you buy a Mikuni

Here is where the float needle assembly seats, a O ring is suppose to seal around where the arrows are, the casting is incomplete, they attempted to machine the area but their is not enough material to machine it fully.

I have no way to test this setup to ensure their is no gas getting around the outside of the seat, I guess the carb could be tested in a gravity setup and see if gas comes out the over flow tubes after it sat over night, with a fuel pump gas could bleed by but be consumed fast enough it don't flood, when the Engine is off the fuel pump is not pumping no flooding should occur.

After cleaning the O ring and reinstalling, while holding the needle in its seat I could detect no leakage by blowing into the fuel line like I could before cleaning.

This carb had bad gas in it at some point in its life I found signs of varnish and crap in every orifice, the pilot or slow jet was almost plugged.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
If you replaced the BLACK fuel line that goes from the bottom of the float bowl to the power valve with clear tubing you would have a built in float level gauge.

I would ONLY use the HIGH QUALITY and EXPENSIVE line that is made for FUEL to do this not the cheap vinyl tubing that will get hard and fall off causing a Engine fire and flaming crispy Pilot
http://www.sudco.com/fuel.html#super


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 10:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Can someone tell me where the dang idle adjustment is??? also air screw??? My son has this junk on his new bike and I haven't figured out how to swap out to a kiehan yet???
He races this weekend so help is appreciated!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
Can someone tell me where the dang idle adjustment is??? also air screw??? My son has this junk on his new bike and I haven't figured out how to swap out to a kiehan yet???
He races this weekend so help is appreciated!!!


Their is a thumb screw on the side for the idle and you need a screwdriver for the air screw..


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