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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
Hey everyone!
I am a new fl350 owner and i was in the process of installing a new starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and noticed that my driven pulley's moveable hub is frozen.... i was able to squeeze the drive belt off but i was going to go ahead and remove the whole driven clutch and go threw it and replace what ever is needed. Long story short the mounting bolt came out just fine but boy the driven pulley will not come off of the tranny shaft as it is rusted on fairly well. I have been soaking it for days with PB blaster and have been diligently searching the forums for a solution

i came across this thread which looks to be the way i may need to go
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11366

BUT my problem is since i cant move my moveable disk on the driven pulley at all i fear i wont be able to open it wide enough to install a nut on the inner side of the fixed pulley like what was done in the thread i just posted.... and i am afraid of pulling the threads if i just tap threads into it...
does anyone have any suggestions on how i could free up my moveable pulley to at the very least i can install the nuts onto the back side of the fixed plate like in the thread posted above???

I am not looking to remove the entire tranny and lay it sideways on a bench to let the PB blaster soak in with Gravity but i fear i may have to resort to that...
any help would be greatly appreciated as i am still learning as i go with the Ody's.... i come from the 3 wheeler community lol
thanks a lot guys


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4081
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Unfortunately you are trying to do one of the most difficult jobs on an oddy.
In my opinion you are going to have to remove the trans. Just my opinion.
Everyone always tries to do things the dog F'er way but I think it will just cause you grief.
If you tip it on it's side and silicone a plastic (cut bottom end of first) bottle on the end and then fill it with PB and let it soak for a few days, then try again. I read that here somewhere.
I have never had to do this job yet but if I do I will be using a bearing puller (see pics) and try to pull it from the very back. May have to make my own custom puller.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 12:42 am
Posts: 608
On the face of the driven clutch is three holes. I tapped these holes so a harmonic balancer puller can be used. This worked great.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
Follow the links below this reply in the Similar Topics :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
jknarfal wrote:
On the face of the driven clutch is three holes. I tapped these holes so a harmonic balancer puller can be used. This worked great.


What size tap did you end up using??


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2651
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
I've got one trans on which I tried tapping the three holes on the hub and using a puller, and, all I did was shear my threads over and over like 3 sizes.

Using a torch too much will warp the snot out of the discs.

There's ~8-10 sq-in of area on there that will rust and seize up. Its a b!tch.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the trans cases as a leverage point - the cast aluminum will bust.


If you have a replacement driven clutch or plan on buying a new one, then don't worry about the old clutch and only worry about the trans cases and shaft. When you install the new one, use some anti-seize on the shaft.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2651
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
canadian oddy wrote:
Unfortunately you are trying to do one of the most difficult jobs on an oddy.
In my opinion you are going to have to remove the trans. Just my opinion.
Everyone always tries to do things the dog F'er way but I think it will just cause you grief.
If you tip it on it's side and silicone a plastic (cut bottom end of first) bottle on the end and then fill it with PB and let it soak for a few days, then try again. I read that here somewhere.
I have never had to do this job yet but if I do I will be using a bearing puller (see pics) and try to pull it from the very back. May have to make my own custom puller.


The diameter of the sheaves is too big for something like that.

Also be careful with that bearing splitter putting pressure against the case and cracking the case. There's not all that much space between the clutch hub and the case.


My recommended scenario:
1. Remove trans.
2. Gut your trans and isolate the case half with shaft and clutch (easier to work with)
3. Use some plumbers putty to make a "reservoir" atop the shaft end (exterior/clutch end of the shaft)
4. Fill the pool with penetrator (PB Blaster, Lucas Penetrating Lube, etc) and check it every morning. Refill as needed.
5. Give the shaft a few light taps every day to try and work the lube in there and shear some seize.
6. Do this for 3+ days.
7. Try to remove.
8. Once you get it all apart, go ahead and replace your input shaft bearings while everything is yard sale'd.

I've even thought of putting the INTERNAL side of the shaft in a coffee can of dry-ice to shrink the shaft (or if you have access to liquid N). The shrink will break some of the rust bond, too.

Maybe even put the whole thing (case half, shaft, clutch) in the oven (not your kitchen) at 3-350 for 10min, remove and let cool, 10min in oven, cool, a few reps. The expansion/contraction may work the corrosion apart. It will also boil the penetrator and kind of give the area a nice "gargle" of fluid, lol. Beware: I don't remember if that side oil seal is the "hard to find one" or not. And the helix slider caps are plastic.

Don't pry off the case shell.
Don't flame-torch the crap out of the clutch.


I got lucky on the one I've disassembled successfully. The other one is still stuck and on the shelf.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
This is starting to get scary..... So whats available out there for replacement driven clutch's?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:01 pm
Posts: 334
Location: North San Diego
bigdaddyvw185 wrote:
This is starting to get scary..... So whats available out there for replacement driven clutch's?


I used the three hole approach with PB - and time

For some reason I am thinking I backed the pulling bolts with thin nuts to help support the pulling load, but I might be foggy on that

Soaked the hell out of it, in the buggy with one wheel jacked up to let it gravity soak

Tapped the holes - don't remember the size, used a steering wheel puller and put tension on it

Came back in a few hours and another small turn for tension

One night it popped off!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22129
Location: Chicago
bigdaddyvw185 wrote:
This is starting to get scary..... So whats available out there for replacement driven clutch's?

Comet Model 790 Driven Clutch http://www.mfgsupply.com/301826a-comet- ... lutch.html


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
hoser wrote:
bigdaddyvw185 wrote:
This is starting to get scary..... So whats available out there for replacement driven clutch's?

Comet Model 790 Driven Clutch http://www.mfgsupply.com/301826a-comet- ... lutch.html



Thank you hoser!
now this driven clutch is a direct bolt on correct? I see it has tapped threads on the inside where the mounting bolt would go...?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
I have been reading everything I can find on the subject...and I am coming up with using a 5/16-18 tap to thread the 3 holes into the puller, do you guys think I should go with the 5/16-18 or a 5/16-24 since from what I am coming up with is that the majority of guys ended up pulling the 5/16-18 threads.
also I am hoping that when I thread the puller bolts in that it may separate my disks..... then worse case I would be able to nut the back of the disk... but nothing is showing any signs of freeing up at this point

on a better note I scored a bunch of parts this weekend, new foottub, rear caliper, master cylinder and lines, rotor, and a small assortment of NOS parts!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:01 pm
Posts: 334
Location: North San Diego
bigdaddyvw185 wrote:
I have been reading everything I can find on the subject...and I am coming up with using a 5/16-18 tap to thread the 3 holes into the puller, do you guys think I should go with the 5/16-18 or a 5/16-24 since from what I am coming up with is that the majority of guys ended up pulling the 5/16-18 threads.
also I am hoping that when I thread the puller bolts in that it may separate my disks..... then worse case I would be able to nut the back of the disk... but nothing is showing any signs of freeing up at this point

on a better note I scored a bunch of parts this weekend, new foottub, rear caliper, master cylinder and lines, rotor, and a small assortment of NOS parts!


Is there enough space to thread a thin but behind back of sheave and case?

I could have sworn that's what I did as I was also chicken of popping the threads


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Seymour CT
Well I am happy to report that I was able to get the driven pulley off tonight! I tapped the holes with the 5/16-18 and hit it with a little heat.... After one loud POP the pulley slid right off with little issue! But boy is that shaft rusty! Turns out the obvious blaster worked all the way in.

I'll post pics in the morning
Thanks for all the help guys!


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