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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Poleclimber67 sent me his Pilot Engine below is the description of the problem or symptoms he was experiencing and what prompted him to pull the Engine and ship for a CSI.

Quote:
Was riding a few hours off and on on some trails. I was going about 3/4 throttle through a small puddle when it just died...like shutting the key off. I tried to restart and it rolled over once but very slow. Thinking it got hydrolic locked or I sucked in water in air box, I unbuckled and checked the air box and it was bone dry.

I then turned key back on and it fired right up, but now making the rapping/chattering sound you can hear on the YouTube video.

I limped it back to our campsite (maybe 1/4 mile) I tore Engine out and and brought to guys house with the race pilots to tear down as I didn't have a clutch puller yet. I took top end off and it didn't look bad to me, couple lil nicks in head but cylinder wasn't scored or piston marked up or anything.

I then got called to work and the other guy took it from there. He said the side to side clearance was fine on the rod and he put top end back together and said all was good with Engine. He noticed after pulling clutch that if you shook it, sounded like something was broke inside and said that must have been the problem. I put Engine back in and fired it up without clutch and still has the same sound.

I took off recoil and balancer side cover and didn't notice anything out of place other than a lil chipping of the balancer gewr?/ starter gear teeth..


Perfect packing job no shipping damage.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:36 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I will have to take more pics tomorrow most I took today didnt turn out very well.

First thing I noticed when I took the top end apart was the rust on the top end bearing.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:36 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Piston has enough wear it needs replaced.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:38 pm 
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Still need to clean and hone the cylinder so can measure the bore condition.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
You can see the rust stains on the rod.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:43 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Clutch side crank bearing ball separator is coming apart one of the rivet heads is missing and probably what caused the damage to the head you noted.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:44 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Heads are still on this part of the cage but its separated from the other side and ready to fail.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:50 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Plenty of dirt and shit inside the Engine.

Still a lot to do but the Engine needs a major over haul, I suggest having the crankshaft rebuilt their is plenty of play in it looking at the rust on the small end of the rod and on the crank itself I bet the lower bearing is rusted also.

Naturally both crank bearings will need replaced.
Full Engine gasket set
All 3 lower end seals (2 crank seals 1 side case seal) needs replaced.
Will also need a piston kit for the top end, will measure the cylinder tomorrow to see if it needs bored or not.

All the parts will be cleaned and closely inspected, lapped to ensure they are flat.

More tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:52 pm
Posts: 354
Location: butler pa
Awesome...she almost went kaboom... nice observations. I'll get ordering parts asap


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 1:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
I worked up a parts list
Needs a 80.5mm piston kit search/call around for the best price, prices on these vary about 40 bux for the exact same part.

Clutch side crank seal http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 6-004.html
Clutch side crank bearing http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9871
Mag side crank bearing http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/y ... 29-00.html
Complete Engine gasket set http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products ... gasket-kit
This seal is the seal behind the recoil starter http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 2-015.html
Mag side crank seal http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Oil-Shaf ... 255d28b231

Rod kit to rebuild the crankshaft http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Pro ... 165835.htm

Cases cleaned, gaskets scraped, gasket surfaces lapped, cases modified for better oiling to the bearings.
Cylinder cleaned, honed, bore checked needs a 80.5mm piston kit, studs removed, top of the cylinder lapped to ensure its flat
Head cleaned, head lapped to ensure its flat
Still working on getting the bearing off the crankshaft it will have to be ground off.

Pictures at 11


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:52 pm
Posts: 354
Location: butler pa
Thanks for the list... I've already ordered and got in most of the parts so far. Funny thing is I ordered crank bearing from wiseco. They advertise them as a set for the fl400. Funny thing is you end up with 2 clutch side crank bearing that are 30x72x19 with the c3 clearance. They're at least a koyo bearing and both of them were $30 shipped. Not a bad deal if they sent correct bearings... I went ahead and ordered 2 of the Yamaha 32x72x19 replacements from your list today. Then I'll have a spare set for when my other pilot decided she wants rebuilt. I will say doing my search before I read this post....I found that that old vintage articcat sleds used the same bearing and found them on a site for 7.99. I didn't order them for fear of getting a garbage bearing but its almost worth looking into for $8? How many bearing companies are really out there? I already have the gasket kit, still waiting on rod kit to come and in ordered the piston kit today. So hopefully I'll be able to get it all shipped out to you next week some time. Thanks again


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Quick update, your bottom end is assembled.

Got the crank back from Speedchaser he did a wonderful job rebuilding as usual, I performed all the normal case mods for better oiling that I perform on all my builds as well as remove casting flaws that impede flow, New crank bearings and seals installed.

Moving to the top end tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:52 pm
Posts: 354
Location: butler pa
hoser wrote:
Quick update, your bottom end is assembled.

Got the crank back from Speedchaser he did a wonderful job rebuilding as usual, I performed all the normal case mods for better oiling that I perform on all my builds as well as remove casting flaws that impede flow, New crank bearings and seals installed.

Moving to the top end tomorrow.


Woooohoooo!! Thanks hoser!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Update
Your Engine is done, cylinder and head hoserized ready for action :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:25 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Close up pics of the installed HOT ROD installed by Speedchaser .

Looks like they take the standard rod then sand down the surfaces of the rod smooth have read this in tech articles on Engine building the theory is the forging process creates stress risers and micro cracks at the surface that after thousands or even millions of cycles (rod going up and down) they can turn into big cracks and the rod can break, when was the last time you seen a rod break in one of these engines?

A good practice in a expensive full race Engine that has tripled the HP and increased the RPMs quite a bit.

If I seen rods in this application breaking you can bet I would be doing the same plus having the rods crack tested.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Piston installed, before the manifold a quick look

Bevel at the bottom of the piston prep (hoserized) rather than the sharp factory edge that acts more like a oil scraper.

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Piston prep

Image

With the bevel at the bottom blue arrow as the piston travels down any oil on the cylinder wall is scooped up where the bevel meets the cylinder wall creating a small reservoir of oil that is then deposited between the piston and cylinder wall not just scraped off :-) More info http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3399


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
You sent another intake, manifold and reed cage and a 30mm carb.

Reeds on the Vforce look really good.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Intake manifold looks home made seems ok will make installing the 39mm carb easier :shock:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:40 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Carb came with a bunch of jets has a CPW sticker on the float bowl assume its from Carb Parts Warehouse ?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:54 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is what it came with I installed the 170 main and the 55 Pilot jet, it has CEJ needle I always ran a EEG in my hoserized Pilot engines not sure if the CEJ is leaner or fatter than the EEG ?

The slide was stamped 55 I found this strange usually they are just a single number like 5 or 6 wonder if it was accidentally double stamped at the factory? Or is this something new?

Something your going to have to investigate is the float in this carb I don't recall them being black plastic for the 39mm PWK's after I cleaned installed the jets assembled the carb I always blow in the fuel inlet tub then turn the carb over and see if the float needed seals, it appears the float is not moving in the carb fact is you can turn the carb over and cant feel it move you can shake the carb and it don't move ITS STUCK.

Remove the float bowl and the float moves and functions perfectly it appears that the brass vent tube that is in the float bowl is hitting on the arm of the float preventing it from moving AGAIN I don't recall the 39mm PWK having a black all plastic float I think someone has replaced the factory float with this one the floats I remember have a stainless arms with black plastic floats attached, their appears to be a clearance problem with this float in this carb I would call http://www.carbparts.com see what they know.

All I know is if installed as is its not going to work...

Some of my Pilot jetting info use only as a guideline yours will be different, http://www.pilotodyssey.com/currentjetting.htm


Some details on installing a 39mm on a Pilot a must read http://www.pilotodyssey.com/39mm.htm

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:52 pm
Posts: 354
Location: butler pa
Thanks hoser! Engine should be here tomorrow :) I ordered a new float and some jets so I'll dig into the carb as well. I bought it used and know none of the history on carb, but I'll figure it out! Thanks again


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:18 am 
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Location: Wichita ks
("H" from upper post) "Here is what it came with I installed the 170 main and the 55 Pilot jet, it has CEJ needle I always ran a EEG in my hoserized Pilot engines not sure if the CEJ is leaner or fatter than the EEG ?"


Sounds like the needle is a high intake velocity needle. Heres a pic of the chart if it helps.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:24 am 
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Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Thanks, I found more info on the needles too

decoding keihin needles
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/810846-decoding-keihin-needles/

Duncan has some info
http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 5:43 pm 
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Location: butler pa
Awesome...thanks for the info....much appreciated!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:52 pm
Posts: 354
Location: butler pa
Just got the Engine from ups. Box looks good and undamaged!! Just to be sure...u didn't ship with any balancer oil...correct? Thanks again...hope within a week or so I find time to put in!! I'll keep ya posted


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