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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
In anticipation of PilotJunkies Engine... :-)

EDIT:

The Engine arrived packed in a plastic tub, setting on a carpet sample and air bubble packing material that was no match for UPS and a 65 lb Engine I am sure shortly after getting on the shipping semi all the little air bubbles deflated and the hard carpet sample and the plastic box all succumb to the punishment of UPS transit, their was holes worn through the carpet sample, packing plastic and the plastic tub by time it arrived, glad they did not drop the box on concrete and bust the Engine cases.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:44 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Out of the box and on the bench notations.

Please explain all the red silicone all over the outside of the Engine, whats the deal, why was it applied? Help me with the CSI, what is the history of this Engine, when/why was the sleeve installed, you said the bottom end was rebuild not long ago?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:54 pm 
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More out of the box and on the bench notations.

Both Engine case dowel pins are damaged and need replaced.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Two bolts for the crank case are missing what happen to these two bolts, they are critical in sealing up the crank cases, is it these two missing bolts that prompted the application of red silicone, the cases were not sealing?

Where is the starter?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:59 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Two of the 6 bolts are not OEM, at least washers was used :shock:

The intake manifold is still soft any pliable no cracks found.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The first thing I do when I receive a Engine is REMOVE THE RECOIL STARTER their is no need to ship it with the Engine its just added weight you pay shipping for X2, same with the coolant hoses I removed the two hoses .

One of the recoil bolts is a non OEM bolt without a washer.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Head removed you can see signs of damage from a past poofkaboom where parts had got between the piston and the head :shock:

You asked for the top end to be hoserized so this damaged will be removed when the head is machined and re-chambered to 49cc :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:05 pm 
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Location: Chicago
As found top of the piston pic, burn pattern is uneven and strange will have to look close at the ports to see why the flow and burn was so far off center and symmetrical .


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:06 pm 
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Location: Chicago
As found of the piston and cylinder, first pic is crappy but their is noticeable wear on the intake side of the piston skirt can see all the machining marks are long worn off.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:09 pm 
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Still can see the cross hatch from the last cylinder preparation (hone) but you also can see vertical scratches on the cylinder wall where dirt has got between the piston and the cylinder.

Look close.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:17 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Cylinder removed you can see their is still a huge amount of gasket material stuck to the crank cases from a past Engine rebuild, the old gasket is GREEN the gasket used on this Engine rebuild is the dark BROWN gasket material, is this why the red silicone was applied to the front of the cylinder below the exhaust, the old gasket was left on the Engine causing it to leak then the red silicone was applied to stop it from leaking?

Also note the voids in the cases where their is oil, the oil looks like oil from the balancer cases than from two stroke oil, what color is the oil you mix with your gas?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:19 pm 
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You can see the wear on the cylinder.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:26 pm 
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Its hard to see in the pics but something has got between the crank cases and the rod and or crankshaft and damaged the cases, did this damage happen since the last time the bottom end was taken apart and the cases were leaking or weeping oil so the silicone was applied?

Did the damage happen before the cases were split the last time and who ever rebuilt the bottom end failed to lap the cases to ensure they were flat and would seal again?


When case damage like this happens I usually clean up the mess where the parts gouged the cases by sanding with sand paper to erase the marks so in the future you don't see damaged cases and wonder what and when the damage actually happen.

Again this goes back to the history of this Engine please help.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Detailed pictures of the piston.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
As we discussed in the PM I would be changing the clutch side cranks seal, first the seal area needs cleaned up to keep anything from getting inside the Engine.

Then a sheet metal screw is screwed into the seal so you can grab it with a vice grips and pull the old seal out.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:32 pm 
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Seal pulled you can see the dirt trapped between the seal lips, its also dry no oil between the lips.

Seal was over due to be changed.


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Oil scraped from between the lips of the seal.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:34 pm 
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Location: Chicago
After pulling the recoil starter I could see a fair amount of oil in the case not surprised the right case seal is known to leak, so I pulled the recoil basket and pulled the seal, the lips of the seal was full of dirt, seal was over due to be changed.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
While I was removing the right case seal I noticed a home made gasket was used on the water pump case cover so I pulled the cover to investigate why the water pump cover was removed and why a home made gasket was used.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:41 pm 
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As I suspected the home made gasket was of poor quality and not accurately cut the gasket on the inside interferes with the flow of coolant the gasket is blocking critical coolant flow.

In the pic below the red arrows point to where the excess gasket is in the coolant flow blue arrows point to where the cases has made a impression in the gasket. The are between the red and blue arrows should have been removed.

Notice the green gasket material stuck to the black gasket, someone failed to remove all the old gasket material from this surface too.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:44 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I laid a new gasket over the installed gasket you can see how much the home made gasket hangs into the flow path and past the factory gasket.

Anything that hangs outside the case hurts nothing but does notify me something is non standard and needs investigated :-) I hoped to find a precision cut and fitting gasket inside :shock:

What is the history on the water pump was it rebuilt at some time in the past, just had the cover removed for inspection?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:00 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio
I put red silicon on just for an ounce of prevention(not to self don't do that again)
And I don't know about the missing bolts I may have a few at my shop I can send you. I did send you some new drain plug washers because it probably needs them


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:02 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio
The oil I mix with my gas is blue and the damage is from before I rebuilt the bottom end. I had a bottom end crank bearing go out and that's when I rebuilt it so that's what the damage is from


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:06 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio
The water put had a bed mechanical seal put on it when I rebuilt the bottom end and the homemade gasket was because I took the one side of the case of about 6 months Ago to check the gasket for leaks because I was having a leak on that side of the Engine but it was just a drain plug washer. I feel dumb now that it was just that simple but that's why the water pump has a homemade gasket


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:14 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I honed the cylinder a little with a Sunnen AN-112 ridged hone, because of the wear the cylinder will need bored to the first over size, I see the .025mm OEM piston 13102-HE0-315 is still available http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 0-315.html but the rings are discontinued http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 0-305.html you should try to locate a set of the rings 13012-HE0-305.

If you cant locate the rings you will need a Wiseco 80.50mm piston kit.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:21 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio
Hoser I cannot find an 80.5mm piston for the pilot,could we just go out to 81.00mm and please check the message I just sent you


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