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 Post subject: Bad Crank? (Pilot)
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
I purchased a problematic Engine some time back that needed a complete rebuild of the bottom and top end. When I disassembled the bottom end, one of the crank bearings stayed on the crank. I had an extra crank and decided that I would work on the crank with the bearing stuck on it later. Tried everything I could to get the bearing off, but just wouldn't come off the crank. The previous owner ran the Engine with a bad seal for a long time and the bearing became one with the crank. The bearing became fused to the crank with rust! I took drastic measures and cut the bearing in half to remove it from the crank! After I cleaned everything up, you could see the crank was pitted from the rust. I'm concerned that the crank is now trash as the output shaft is no longer smooth for the seal to seat well and do its job. Can anyone offer some advice to possibly salvage the crank?

Pilot crank seal repair.


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File comment: Pitted crank
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File comment: Pitted crank
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File comment: Pitted crank
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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
How about a speedy sleeve. I know they use em for trucks and stuff on like pinion shafts and axles. Maybe you could find one the right size? Or could iit be welded and turned back down?


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
nitrosport_5 wrote:
How about a speedy sleeve. I know they use em for trucks and stuff on like pinion shafts and axles. Maybe you could find one the right size? Or could iit be welded and turned back down?


Never heard of a speedy sleeve, what is that?
I too thought about welding it, but would probably need to talk to someone like Speedchaser.


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
nitrosport_5 wrote:
How about a speedy sleeve. I know they use em for trucks and stuff on like pinion shafts and axles. Maybe you could find one the right size? Or could iit be welded and turned back down?



Googled it and that looks like a really quick and easy fix! I would imagine the only hard part would be finding the right size.


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank?
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 1:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
There is only one problem with speedy sleeves -- they don't last. I know because we use them on our gearboxes at work. It is a temporary fix. Depending on how fast the gearbox turns will determine how long the speedy sleeve will last. Since it is on the crank which turns 8000 rpm I would not be that confident in it. Also when you use a speedy sleeve your seal clamps down on it a bit harder because some of the clearance is taken away due to the thickness of the sleeve. Due to this extra pressure from the seal it starts to wear and when it wears through it shreds the seal instantly. With regards to putting it under the area where the bearing goes forget it, you won't get the bearing on. You could take it to a welding shop and they can spray weld it but that puts a lot of heat into it and then it would have to be machined down. Not sure what I can suggest for you on this one right now.


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank?
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Wonder if building it up with brazing rod then turning it back down would last, naturally the bronze would not wear as long as steel but it takes a long time for steel to wear out, its a lubricated rubber seal riding on the bronze, it would also be rust resistant :shock:

See what speedchaser says....


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank? (Pilot)
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
I have welded the seal surface before for Mudbogger I think I used just plane steel rod . its been some time
How bad is the rod or is that gone also . most the time it will be about $55 to $75 to weld and turn. With no guarantees if it brakes in half :0)

Thanks speed


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank? (Pilot)
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
speedchaser wrote:
I have welded the seal surface before for Mudbogger I think I used just plane steel rod . its been some time
How bad is the rod or is that gone also . most the time it will be about $55 to $75 to weld and turn. With no guarantees if it brakes in half :0)

Thanks speed


Thank you for responding, the rod looks to be in good condition.


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank? (Pilot)
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Pilot bird wrote:
speedchaser wrote:
I have welded the seal surface before for Mudbogger I think I used just plane steel rod . its been some time
How bad is the rod or is that gone also . most the time it will be about $55 to $75 to weld and turn. With no guarantees if it brakes in half :0)

Thanks speed


Thank you for responding, the rod looks to be in good condition.


that's a replacement rod, check the thrust washer clearance as described in the service manual the gap looks tight . viewtopic.php?f=37&t=10184&p=121604&hilit=03.1406#p121604


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 Post subject: Re: Bad Crank? (Pilot)
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 11:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
hoser wrote:
Pilot bird wrote:
speedchaser wrote:
I have welded the seal surface before for Mudbogger I think I used just plane steel rod . its been some time
How bad is the rod or is that gone also . most the time it will be about $55 to $75 to weld and turn. With no guarantees if it brakes in half :0)

Thanks speed


Thank you for responding, the rod looks to be in good condition.


that's a replacement rod, check the thrust washer clearance as described in the service manual the gap looks tight . viewtopic.php?f=37&t=10184&p=121604&hilit=03.1406#p121604



The gap is .45mm
The manual says the service limit is .95mm, what should the gap be when replacing the rod? I didn't see anywhere in the manual that said what the gap should be when replacing the rod.


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