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 Post subject: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 8:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
Last fall I paid top dollar on a "ebay" Pilot advertised as runs great. As soon as I purchased it online the owner, from Ohio, texted me that it had a jetting issue. I drove 4 or 5 hours to get it and took it for a short test drive down the driveway. It wasn't really enough space to get it cleaned out but it had all the performance parts and I figured I could work out the jetting later. These things seem pretty hard to find now and I didn't want to let it slip away. I got home and looked at the title and saw that he had only owned it for 5 weeks or so, trouble...

The pilot sat all winter waiting for me to take on the jetting issue this spring. The Pilot came with a rev pipe, 3- 1 inch holes in the air box lid. Compression on this Engine is at #140lbs. The 39mm carb came with a #175 main jet, #45 pilot, middle needle position, . The pilot started and idled fine. It would bog out mid to full throttle. I found the original fuel pump weak at 1.5oz for 10 seconds and replaced it with a polaris pump which measured the proper 4.5oz. I thought this was a big fix and would solve my problem. Nope.

I swapped the rail between my pilots which have the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), coil, and regulator on it, still no go. I found that raising the clip, or dropping the needle, cleaned up the mid range. Seemed like I was finally making progress! I kept raising the main all the way to a #195, it always seemed to be getting better but never ran completely clean. I wondered if the the larger main jets were just masking another problem. I have changed the plugs a few times.

Yesterday I swapped in a old trx250r 34mm stock carb. I was able to hook up my throttle cable but not the choke. It had a strange idle adustment which was a knob on the manual choke lever. I never got this carb to idle right but was able to test the top end. I started with a #150 main like my other pilot and raised it 3 times until I ran out of time. It ran better than the original carb, different but never clean. It seemed like I eventually took it too rich on the main and it would bog at full throttle. Plug chop at full seemed brown, but inconclusive.

My carb swap yesterday seemed to indicate the need for a new carb since full throttle got better than the original 39mm carb but I still wouldn't say it ran clean. I would also say this pilot is not very powerful, a pig compared to my piped stock pilot.

I am now considering that maybe I have another problem beyond the carb. I am looking for ideas. I am thinking maybe I should do a leak down test. I know at 140 compression I am at the lower end of acceptable but hoped to ride a few times before doing a top end. Is there a link on a home made leak down tester that Hoser or somebody made on here? I thought I seen one somewhere.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 9:35 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
Was the Engine supposed to be ported or have any internal work done to it? What was the purpose of the 39mm carb? Unless you know there was major Engine work done I suggest you pull the stock carb from my old Pilot and see what happens. The stock carb should perform well even if the Engine has been ported. I used a stock carb on my second Pilot even after Hoser ported it. I also had a pipe, dual air intakes etc and it ran crisp and clean through the entire rpm range.

Not to say you don't have an air leak, but I don't think an air leak will make it run blubbery, if anything it would make it run lean giving you the impression everything was ok.

Are you sure this is a fuel problem, could it be a stator and pick up coil breaking down at high RPMS?


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 9:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
DC wrote:
Was the Engine supposed to be ported or have any internal work done to it? What was the purpose of the 39mm carb? Unless you know there was major Engine work done I suggest you pull the stock carb from my old Pilot and see what happens. The stock carb should perform well even if the Engine has been ported. I used a stock carb on my second Pilot even after Hoser ported it. I also had a pipe, dual air intakes etc and it ran crisp and clean through the entire rpm range.

Not to say you don't have an air leak, but I don't think an air leak will make it run blubbery, if anything it would make it run lean giving you the impression everything was ok.

Are you sure this is a fuel problem, could it be a stator and pick up coil breaking down at high RPMS?


Thanks DC for the input. I just spoke to Iron Dog Jerry, a long time 2 stroke wrench in Clio. He didn't suspect a leak down problem either. I called to see if he could test for me. I mentioned to him your old Pilot ran clean and strong. He suggested swapping the stock carb and pipe. I don't have a problem with that other than the throttle cable would have to come off too since Honda made it part of the carb and impossible to get it off. I was just looking it over to swap the cable, I guess it cant be that bad to pull too.

Not sure about stator, pick up, or harness in between. Found a burn spot on the harness and a wear spot but no bare wires. I carefully separated and taped them back up.

Not sure about porting either. Previous owner didn't mention it although I wouldn't be surprised since it did have the 39mm carb and what looks like a chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts larger intake.

I do think the problem is something out of the ordinary since it was probably sold twice before me with the problem.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I second DC comments here.
Pull the carb off his machine and try it.
The stator and pick up coil can be checked with an ohm meter. It's in section 16-3 in the manual.
As for that other carb you pulled off of that trx250r, well that's one of those PJ series pieces of crap. I got some info off of another board and copy/paste it to word. I can't attach it as the extension is not allowed so I will paste it here. Hope you don't mind the long winded response.

PJ carb adjusting:

The following is not from Keihin or the internet. If any of it is incorrect I apologize and encourage corrections. It is also incomplete.

I thought it might help people to "properly" adjust the following section of these lovely PJ series carbs if they understood a little about how the idle speed adjustment/choke knob worked on them. Just skip down to the adjustment section if this doesn't interest you.

The PJ carb is obviously a weird bird. Imo, Keihin tried t do what is nearly impossible, which is to make a carb that would idle properly on all motorcycles it was properly sized for without having an adjustment for the slide. Obviously it didn’t work out completely according to plan.

Many people either give up trying to set the idle or simply live with either no idle or no choke, or use throttle cable tension to increase the slide height so their bike will idle.

The idle speed adjustment/choke pull knob combo, is nothing more than a fuel enrichment circuit.

The way this set up works in principal, is a bit similar to the Keihins on the ATC 250 ES Honda ATC. The main exceptions are, the PJ carb has an adjustable idle air screw and the Keihin on the Honda has a fixed size air jet. The air screw is able to adjust air to the idle circuit from an amount of 0 up to the size of the orifice it controls. The idle speed adjustment knob and choke pull knob on the PJ, performs the same function [works the same way] as the idle fuel screw on the Honda Keihin.

This combo knob has two sections. One section is a needle which is raised or lowered by turning the idle “speed adjustment” knob either in or out. The position [height] of this needle partially controls the amount of fuel supplied to the Engine on the idle circuit. The idle circuit provides fuel to the Engine during starting also.

The other section is a plunger that when pulled, adds additional fuel to the bike for starting purposes only.

There are a few different ways to explain and approach the idle "speed"/choke adjustment of this lovely design, the following is just one. Some of these items were mentioned above by others.

IDLE "SPEED"/CHOKE ADJUSTMENT

1. Check float level, if it is too low it can cause a lean idle condition, if it is too high, it can cause a rich condition. Set it to the lower end of the recommended height then check idle again before making further adjustments.

2. Make sure there is a little free play in the throttle cable.

3. Turn the air screw all the way in until it just barely stops and count the amount of turns. The average might be 1, the max might be 3. If it is less than 1/2, and your idle screw knob is at the max limit, your pilot jet is too small. I would install 1 size larger.

4. Warm Engine to operating temp then turn the idle "speed" adjustment knob [located on the choke pull knob] until the highest idle is reached.

5. If your idle air screw is more than 1/2 turns out, turn it in until highest idle is achieved but do not adjust it to less than 1/2 turns from fully closed.

6. Turn the idle "speed" adjustment knob until the desired idle speed is reached.

7. If your idle air screw is still more than 1/2 turns out, turn it in until highest idle is achieved again, but do not adjust it to less than 1/2 turns from fully closed.

8. Turn the idle "speed" adjustment knob until the desired idle speed is reached again.

9. Turn bike off and pull choke lever to see if it properly engages. If it does, you are done with this part, if it does not, install a 1 size larger pilot jet. This should hopefully create a high idle and/or rich condition at idle, in which case, you simply turn the idle "speed"adjustment knob in until the desired idle is reached.

If you turn the idle "speed" adjustment knob all the way in and the idle is still too high, simply turn the idle air screw out until the desire idle speed is reached.

If you reach a point where the air screw suddenly has little to no effect on the idle speed, you have reached the maximum range of its effectiveness. Count how many turns out it is from full in and make a note for your records. This point might be around 3 turns out from full in.

If you reach this point and your idle is still too high then the easiest way I know to achieve your desired idle speed is to reinstall the previous pilot jet, raise the slide a hair by putting tension on it by adjusting the throttle cable [this is not recommended because it can possibly create a potentially dangerous situation], return your air screw to its original setting and turn your idle “speed” adjustment knob in until the desired idle speed is reached.

You will need to fiddle with balancing all these things until the idle “speed” adjustment knob is in far enough that it allows the choke to properly function.

Ok, now if you eventually become one of the lucky few that are able to achieve idle nirvana with a PJ carb, but you now have a slight rich burble/hesitation just off idle, lower your needle 1 position at a time by raising the clip on it and PRAY that it goes away and does not affect your idle.

FLOAT LEVEL - Kehin says it is 16 mm on all PJ carbs.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You asked about a pressure testing rig.
Below is a pdf of a very simple set up and explanation.


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2 stroke pressure testing.pdf [314.03 KiB]
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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
The way you explain it here, it sounds like carb issue. Apparently it runs fine but is just a dog at the top end. So it doesn't seem to be electrical but it could be -- a long shot.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
canadian oddy wrote:
The way you explain it here, it sounds like carb issue. Apparently it runs fine but is just a dog at the top end. So it doesn't seem to be electrical but it could be -- a long shot.


Wow, thanks oddy for your response's. Great find on the stator check in the manual. I found that Duncan write up this morning and read thru it. I also watched a few videos on youtube concerning a leak down test. I have jetted the main from lean to rich and did plug chops on the richer side when it was running the best. At the richest main jet, the plug chop seemed a light tan at best. I have never seen a plug come out of this machine black and fouling. Some sort of weird air leak still seems like a possibility to me.

I also agree that the PJ Keihin is a piece of crap. I was just hoping to see a improvement as a "test" rather than a long term fix. Thanks for the write up on adjusting it, I appreciated it.

I have finally agreed to go for my first Pilot ride up north this Saturday with my brother and his Odyssey. I plan to take DC's pilot up there for the ride and am now reluctant to pull that Pilot apart before the ride. I may just focus on getting things ready for the ride. I have had this week off work and have spent every day f-ing with these things. Today I took a break to regroup and a long nap in my recliner. I feel guilty...


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
An air leak would cause it to run lean. Engines make the most power and run like a raped ape when they are lean and will feel like there is huge power right up until the minute it seizes up.
I agree it has fueling issues and swapping the carbs is the simplest way to test. I'm also hesitant to pull apart a good running machine a week before a scheduled trip.
Take ur trip,have fun and come back with a clear head and a new found motivation from getting to take it out.
Just my 2 cents


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
Last night I built a leak down tester. I pulled the pipe and blocked off exhaust manifold with a auto freeze plug. I blocked the pulse port with a tube with a screw in it. I clamped down my tester into the intake manifold. I couldn't pump 8 lbs with a foot pump. I than carefully tried a small electric pump and watched the gauge build to 8psi than stopped. Air instantly ran out. I doused my new tool with soapy water and found a few leaks in the connections. I worked it one by one till my leak down tool no longer leaked.

I than tried pumping to 8 pounds again. No go, instantly lost pressure. I sprayed the freeze plug in exhaust port, no bubbles no leak, no leak at pulse port, nothing at the intake. I sprayed soap water at the head and base gaskets and around reed cage but didn't see bubbles. This thing does not hold air for 3 seconds let alone 10 minutes which makes it hard to run around and see bubbles. I did notice the bubbles initially on my homemade tool lingered for a short while. Anyway, assuming I tested correctly, it failed.

I also noticed a inch long plastic emblem on the right side of the cylinder, it said, LA Sleeve.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Sounds like you lost a crank seal.
Just curious but did you lose any oil from the counter balancer area ??
Loosen the dip stick a bit and do the test again but soap the dip stick area and see if it bubbles.
Looks like FloridaEdd called it.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
canadian oddy wrote:
Sounds like you lost a crank seal.
Just curious but did you lose any oil from the counter balancer area ??
Loosen the dip stick a bit and do the test again but soap the dip stick area and see if it bubbles.
Looks like FloridaEdd called it.


I haven't noticed any leaks on the floor under it, the previous owner said it didn't leak and that he just changed the balancer and transmission oil. I agree with his statement cause it still looked clean when I changed it again early this spring. I am done with it for now. Tomorrow I plan to clean up garage, pull out DC's pilot, and prepare for Saturdays ride. I have owned these things for 6 months and haven't gone on a ride yet.

Sounds like I will need crank seals, piston, rings, gaskets. I have read that Hoser hates Wiseco's, anywhere to get Honda pistons anymore. Not sure what size I need yet... Is the LA Sleeve trouble?


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
daddyrat wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Sounds like you lost a crank seal.
Just curious but did you lose any oil from the counter balancer area ??
Loosen the dip stick a bit and do the test again but soap the dip stick area and see if it bubbles.
Looks like FloridaEdd called it.


I haven't noticed any leaks on the floor under it, the previous owner said it didn't leak and that he just changed the balancer and transmission oil. I agree with his statement cause it still looked clean when I changed it again early this spring. I am done with it for now. Tomorrow I plan to clean up garage, pull out DC's pilot, and prepare for Saturdays ride. I have owned these things for 6 months and haven't gone on a ride yet.

Sounds like I will need crank seals, piston, rings, gaskets. I have read that Hoser hates Wiseco's, anywhere to get Honda pistons anymore. Not sure what size I need yet... Is the LA Sleeve trouble?


From what I have read the LA Sleeve is good. I believe Ken O Conner uses them. I also know from watching his Youtube vids, that doing a sleeve is not a job for some back yard hack n whacker. It's involved. I wonder if they sleeved that Engine and didn't do a good job on the porting ?? That would be something to think about if you re-seal this Engine and it is still a dog.
As for the oil leak, what I meant when I said "did you lose any oil from counter balancer" was the oil level low when you checked it ?? It won't leak onto the floor, it will be sucked by the double lip seal into the crankcase. It would tell you if that seal was gone or the one on the other side of the Engine. You can still check it when you pull the Engine and the two side covers. Pressure it up and soap the seals inside. But it looks like you are going to do a re&re anyways but it would give you piece of mind knowing which seal it was or if it even was leaking there in the first place.
On a side note here, when you do the rebuild make sure you use the metal base gasket not any fiber one. The fiber ones blow out.
How do I know ?? :-) :-)


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 4:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
About the balancer side seal and oil. The pilot smoked excessively at start up. I know all 2 strokes do, but this seemed noticeably more than DC's. I believe this may be the clue you were looking for oddy with your question of losing balancer oil. I believe your thinking was correct, it probably was losing oil, one puff of smoke at a time.

I am slowly coming to terms with pulling that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
It's not that bad. After you do it a few times, you get good at it. Not as much fun as driving one but it's a learning experience, all the same.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 10:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Before you do the crank seal in the balancer side check the clutch side spray that side with soapy water as you add air pressure looking for bubbles.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 10:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=15525


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
adnoh wrote:
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=15525


Thanks adnoh for the info and link. I plan to pull the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) Saturday and I will check


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
This morning I pulled the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and cleaned the grime and grease off it.

Image

I also noticed what I think is a broken spring on the comet 102c drive clutch.

Image

I also noticed the rear brake caliper was missing a mounting bolt and was cocked with only a portion of the pad hitting the rotor.

The comet clutch needs work and I will need a spring, the broken spring appears to be yellow. I will also have to do some reading about the clutch. Not sure what kind of puller I will need.

While the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is out I will clean the grease and grime off the frame and wire wheel the attaching bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
With that broken spring on the clutch that could have been a lot of your power loss.
Now that you have the Engine out do a pressure test again and see if you can find a leak.
Below is a pic of the puller for a 94c. I don't have a pic of my 102c puller. Basically the important part is at the end of that rod. You want is ground down enough so it don't hit the threads in the crank. Then you need to know what thread pitch and size of a pusher bolt you need for your clutch. Just put the rod in -- thread the pusher bolt in -- and torque it up a little bit (don't go crazy) -- then smack the end of the pusher bolt with a hammer -- torque smack, torque smack you get the idea. It will make a very loud POP and you will start swearing thinking you busted something -- you didn't. That's just how they come off.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
An update, I believe I have 3 issues going, leaking crank seals, fresh top end, and a broken Comet 102c clutch spring. I have spent so much of my spring weekends and vacation days on these Pilots already, I thought I would have a pro look at the Engine. I know that pulling the Engine apart at this point isn't that difficult, but I feel I'm so far behind in every other aspect in my life right now I took it to a long time 2 stroke wrench who is lives locally.

He is Iron Dog Jerry and is known for his 2 stroke sled Engine building around here. He has had some experience with building Pilot engines and I am confident with his work. He will tell me where the cylinder bore is, he will seal the Engine, and pull that clutch and also inspect the rod, bearings, and crank. I am glad to have a professional look at it and give me a baseline for the future. I dropped it off last Monday and he thought he might have it 3 weeks or so. I have a few things I can still do on the Hondas but will also have a chance to finish other small projects around here which will please my wife.

So the project is still moving forward...


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
daddyrat wrote:
An update, I believe I have 3 issues going, leaking crank seals, fresh top end, and a broken Comet 102c clutch spring. I have spent so much of my spring weekends and vacation days on these Pilots already, I thought I would have a pro look at the Engine. I know that pulling the Engine apart at this point isn't that difficult, but I feel I'm so far behind in every other aspect in my life right now I took it to a long time 2 stroke wrench who is lives locally.

He is Iron Dog Jerry and is known for his 2 stroke sled Engine building around here. He has had some experience with building Pilot engines and I am confident with his work. He will tell me where the cylinder bore is, he will seal the Engine, and pull that clutch and also inspect the rod, bearings, and crank. I am glad to have a professional look at it and give me a baseline for the future. I dropped it off last Monday and he thought he might have it 3 weeks or so. I have a few things I can still do on the Hondas but will also have a chance to finish other small projects around here which will please my wife.

So the project is still moving forward...


Yes I know that feeling.
I spend a tremendous amount of time fixing things on the oddys but at least they are reliable now.
Repaired 3 badly bent rims this week and I have a pile of destroyed rims in the back shed. Four really nice aluminum rims got destroyed in that big crash I had a couple of years ago. You will always be fixing things on these machines, they are aged now. You really have to like wrenching and have the time and money to do it. If not it will be a struggle.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:36 pm
Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
canadian oddy wrote:
daddyrat wrote:
An update, I believe I have 3 issues going, leaking crank seals, fresh top end, and a broken Comet 102c clutch spring. I have spent so much of my spring weekends and vacation days on these Pilots already, I thought I would have a pro look at the Engine. I know that pulling the Engine apart at this point isn't that difficult, but I feel I'm so far behind in every other aspect in my life right now I took it to a long time 2 stroke wrench who is lives locally.

He is Iron Dog Jerry and is known for his 2 stroke sled Engine building around here. He has had some experience with building Pilot engines and I am confident with his work. He will tell me where the cylinder bore is, he will seal the Engine, and pull that clutch and also inspect the rod, bearings, and crank. I am glad to have a professional look at it and give me a baseline for the future. I dropped it off last Monday and he thought he might have it 3 weeks or so. I have a few things I can still do on the Hondas but will also have a chance to finish other small projects around here which will please my wife.

So the project is still moving forward...


Yes I know that feeling.
I spend a tremendous amount of time fixing things on the oddys but at least they are reliable now.
Repaired 3 badly bent rims this week and I have a pile of destroyed rims in the back shed. Four really nice aluminum rims got destroyed in that big crash I had a couple of years ago. You will always be fixing things on these machines, they are aged now. You really have to like wrenching and have the time and money to do it. If not it will be a struggle.


amen.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
dipnadactyl wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
daddyrat wrote:
An update, I believe I have 3 issues going, leaking crank seals, fresh top end, and a broken Comet 102c clutch spring. I have spent so much of my spring weekends and vacation days on these Pilots already, I thought I would have a pro look at the Engine. I know that pulling the Engine apart at this point isn't that difficult, but I feel I'm so far behind in every other aspect in my life right now I took it to a long time 2 stroke wrench who is lives locally.

He is Iron Dog Jerry and is known for his 2 stroke sled Engine building around here. He has had some experience with building Pilot engines and I am confident with his work. He will tell me where the cylinder bore is, he will seal the Engine, and pull that clutch and also inspect the rod, bearings, and crank. I am glad to have a professional look at it and give me a baseline for the future. I dropped it off last Monday and he thought he might have it 3 weeks or so. I have a few things I can still do on the Hondas but will also have a chance to finish other small projects around here which will please my wife.

So the project is still moving forward...


Yes I know that feeling.
I spend a tremendous amount of time fixing things on the oddys but at least they are reliable now.
Repaired 3 badly bent rims this week and I have a pile of destroyed rims in the back shed. Four really nice aluminum rims got destroyed in that big crash I had a couple of years ago. You will always be fixing things on these machines, they are aged now. You really have to like wrenching and have the time and money to do it. If not it will be a struggle.


amen.


I don't mind wrenching and I think at some point I will be caught up, and my wrenching time will stabilize. I do look forward to more ride time.


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:52 am
Posts: 149
Location: Durand, MI
I got my motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) back. Clutch side large seal, that is now discontinued, was leaking, cracked with chunks of it missing, a definite leak. Iron dog Jerry also said cheap aftermarket intake manifold that was on it can leak due to poor construction. He claims they can bow out in the middle causing a leak when tightened down, he replaced it with a Mikuni intake. The cylinder is now bored 1 over with Wiseco piston, said LA sleeve looked good on port match and cylinder is not ported. He split the cases and said the rod and crank bearings were good.

I ordered a a Comet clutch spring and weighted arms from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts. After a few weeks I tried to contact chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts from his website, email, and phone but they never responded. I was worried that it went on permanent back order, but the stuff did finally did show up. Poor communications but at least I got the parts.

Now to put it back together...


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 Post subject: Re: No top end power
PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Oh my god -- you got that intake at Afternuts didn't you ??
That's exactly what my brothers intake did years ago. When you tightened down the bolts it flexed the plate inside the rubber and it bowed in the middle causing a leak. I tried putting bigger washers on but no cheer.

Edit: You better get down on your hands and knees and please Irondog. He just saved you an Engine by finding that poor intake. My brothers intake cost us an Engine. Its really sick that Afterthought is still selling these after all these years. They are crap intakes. Sick.


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