O.K. Help me out! I’ve tried pressing the CV axle out of the rear hub but cannot get it to budge!

Any suggestions?

Am I missing something really simple that I need to do first?

Thanks!

Something smells here.
If you removed the castle nut from the spline then it should just come out with a reasonable amount of force. No way it shouldn't come out easy.

I cannot get it to budge! Yes I removed the axle castle nut and the cotter pin.

I was thinking there was a retaining clip/snap ring somewhere that I missed etc...that I needed to remove but I don’t see anything.

I’ve soaked it with PB Blaster, Kroil Oil for over a week now. Sprayed it inside the hub/spline area and from the backside as well.

When I’ve used two different pullers they get so tight I start bending the tabs that go over the axle studs.

I’m stumped and looking for any help/suggestions.

Thanks!

CO, Thanks for the pic’s!

Later, Shortbox4x4

Could you post a few pictures please?

what is the condition of the hub and spline, does it look rusted? is the hub solid on the spline or can you get it to move at all?
if it feels solid you could try tapping the hub with a hammer in an attempt to get it loosened off of the splines. is it possible someone buggered the end of the splines? if you can get the CV off the trans you can take the assembly and press it out

I’ll go take some pic’s right now and post shortly. Should’ve done that from the beginning.

Hang tight....

To my knowledge it’s never been off. Doesn’t have that scaly/flakey type rust. So if someone had it off and buggered up the splines I have no way of knowing.

It’s solid...doesn’t budge at all.

I’ve hit it pretty hard more than just a several times with a 5# lead dead blow hammer. Used a lead hammer so I cannot bugger up the end or the threads at all.

Will post pic’s....

OK...how do I post a picture on this forum?

Never mind....lol!

WOW.
Looks like you are going to have to use heat and the puller.
Use a cutting torch and nothing else because you don't want the heat to transfer to the splined shaft. The torch gets a tremendous amount of heat on the hub real fast so the transfer is delayed.
You only get one shot at this and then you get heat transfer. Make sure you're set up and ready to go. This is best done with two guys. One on the torch and one on the air gun/hammer. If it don't go first try then let it cool down and do it again many hrs later.
I see no other option here.
You will cook the seals but so what -- replace them.
Make sure you got all the parts in hand before you go crazy.

One try -- Two try -- TORCH

Below is a pic of the wheel hub internals.
I see nothing there that would hold it.
CO

CO, Your killing me! Really have to use a torch?! Just kidding! LOL!

I figured it was going to come to that possibly.

I’ll make sure I have new bearings and seals in my hand etc...I’m not worried about the front suspension link. I’ve got a spare one of those.

So when you say heat up the hub....do you mean the hub itself and not the knuckle?

Or do you mean heat the knuckle up on the hub side?

I’m taking it as heat the hub itself up (the piece with the wheel studs). Get it warm and then put start turning the puller shaft in to try and pull it off.

Thanks, Shortbox4x4

WHEEL HUB ONLY !!
NOT the knuckle !!
CO

just bumping this ahead of the spam