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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Mudbogger bought another Pilot to restore http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2612 and sent me the Engine for evaluation, from the looks of the silicone sealer used on the cases its easy to see someone has been into the bottom end before.


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File comment: Jetting pretty fat
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Who ever did the bottom end did NOT properly trim the gasket where it meets the bottom of the cylinder (pink arrow), the extra thickness did NOT allow the clyinder to seat properly and allow the gasket to properly compress and SEAL so crank case gases were bleed into the voids (blue arrows) in the castings and leaked around the studs.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Gasket sealer inside and out, NO SEALER is required when you assemble the bottom end.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
More cylinder pics, guy didnt fog this Engine very well between rides, before your done running an Engine for a trip you need to pull the choke and really fog the Engine with a rich mixture, let it idle with the choke on and blip the throttle every now and then, in a few weeks the gas will evaporate and leave behind the oil on critical parts.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I pulled the clutch side crank seal, first you need to clean up the shaft with a 3M pad and wash the area clean with carb cleaner or a solvent so you don't get dirt inside.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Next I take sheet metal screws and slowly screw them into the seal in 2 locations, I use 3/4 #8 screws, then grab the heads of the screws with a visegrips and work the seal out.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Piston is a like new Wiseco 1.5mm over bore, as found clearance was .005, its a very low hour piston and rings, you could hone the cylinder and reuse the piston and rings how ever I am not a Wiseco user and only use cast OEM pistons, Mudbogger has a low hour stock cylinder on the stock bore he will send for installation, this one will be cleaned up, honed, oiled and saved for future use.


More pics later.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Thanks Hoser for the great pics, as far as long term storage for the jug, what should be done to it as far as oiling, lubricating it, monthly, couple times a year?

Top end is on its way to you-should be there in 3days-ready to go!!
I am glad this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) wasn't like the last rebuild we did on "the fresh rebuild" LMAO on my last impulse purchase-lol
I got hosed on that deal for sure, thank goodness this isnt bad at all!!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
hoser wrote:
Next I take sheet metal screws and slowly screw them into the seal in 2 locations, I use 3/4 #8 screws, then grab the heads of the screws with a visegrips and work the seal out.


Pulling a crank seal
Change a crank seal
Changing a crank seal
Pilot cranks seal
Pilot crank seal removal


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