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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
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Location: Chandler, AZ
I did not know the exhaust left the cylinder and reentered to be burned, that's why i like this website you learn something new everyday thanks Hoser.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
"H" you might want to explain a lillte on how the exhaust gase temp has an effect on the stufiing as well as it 's effect by stinger dia. Maybe touch base on how the exhaust port dia and high in stroke duration playes a part int the stuffing when useing power and rev pipes. Then how this effects dome configuration and squish band dis. and area. This may open a lot of eyes on how and what a pipe does to the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) example is really neat I enjoy the anamation.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:09 pm 
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Location: Wichita ks
"H" I have a question on head pics. Have you screwed new plug into new head for comparson. the old head with that plug is inset kinda far. This looks like it would lead to a cold fire sitution. Not very knowlageable in the 500's is this normal. On the new head the second sqiuish angle is very minumal or non exhistance. By chance was he running a rev pipe. Also interesting is the squish clearenceh with new head. Does the 500 head use a different plug than the 400. Thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Looks like dried blood but it turns out to be red lock tite was put on the threads to hold the nut on, I always use blue.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:18 pm 
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Location: Chicago
See the weld added to support the wider CR500 cylinder, nice welding job who ever performed this work...


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:18 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Splitting Pilot crank cases


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Never any need to pry cases apart with screwdrivers or something simular the factory provides plenty of bosses to push against once you get the case splitter under tension go around the cases with a brass punch and gently tap tap tap until the gasket gives.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Even inside the Engine mount holes their is a little lip you can catch with a punch


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:23 pm 
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Location: Chicago
If the cylinder gasket is still in place don't forget to cut it.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:26 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Cases split and the first thing I am greeted with is a rebuilt crank, I assumed it was rebuilt from the discolor marks I seen on the webs.

Where the welds are the crank lobe is dished out I assume this crank has been rebuilt a few times the only reason to trench a crank that deep with a grinder is when your removing a pin that was welded once before.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:28 pm 
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Location: Chicago
See the crack on the end of the weld, I assume this happen as it cooled from welding, I don't see it as a problem I will grind it back a little to remove the stress of the crack.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:29 pm 
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Location: Chicago
This Engine has all the signs of a fresh rebuild, you can still see the grease behind the bearing and seal from assembly.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The same bearing used on both sides, 6306 Honda calls for a 6306 C3 on the clutch side, wonder what the difference is?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:36 pm 
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Location: Chicago
With the cases split and the cylinder installed on 1/2 the case you can see the flow problems


Many areas that will be rounded off to enhance flows.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:37 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Ledge


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:38 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Ledge marked with a marker.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:01 pm 
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Location: Chicago
IMO massaging the parts like the cylinder and piston edges is important to promoting oil to stay on the parts, look close at new pistons and their edges, look at the cylinder walls not only around the port openings that get a bevel but at the bottoms of the cylinder, small changes can promote better oiling, and as gas in a vapor form meets these parts better cooling.

I made a little illustration showing what I am trying to achieve when I prep parts for assembly a simply radius change goes a long way.

As the piston travels down oil is collected and pooled then distributed on parts.

Piston prep


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
Hello and good after noon
One quick question on the chamfer or lead on the bottom skirt of piston
How much of a lead to collect oil and can you have too much of a lead chamfer
Thanks Speedchaser


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:56 pm 
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Location: Chicago
speedchaser wrote:
Hello and good after noon
One quick question on the chamfer or lead on the bottom skirt of piston
How much of a lead to collect oil and can you have too much of a lead chamfer
Thanks Speedchaser


Great question read below for your answer...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
What all is needed to do a cr500 build? I know you need cylinder,and piston. Do you need the rod? I would like to do this to my 1990. Any info is appreciated thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
Posts: 2245
Location: Chandler, AZ
what tools do you use to do the bevel? a bevel knife then sand paper to smooth it out? we would use a fine belt sander then green scotch bright with palm olive dish detergent on rod and main bearings for race engines.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
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Location: Chandler, AZ
hoser wrote:
Grooves cut on the end of the crank bolt to act as a tap???
are the threads messed up in the crank?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Hoser,did you note how high the piston crown edge was at TDC (Top Dead Center) in relation to the cylinder deck?
When I did my CR500 rebuild,it was about 1.5 mm above the cyl deck pre-gasket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
afastcar wrote:
hoser wrote:
Grooves cut on the end of the crank bolt to act as a tap???
are the threads messed up in the crank?


You can see at one time the threads were buggered up but I ran a tap in and they are good for 2" deep, looking at the clutch and the bolt only about 1/2" of the threads are being used so if you can order a bolt 1" longer it would be better, the bolt you need is 12mm x 6.5 " long 1.25 thread pitch I assume grade 8? maybe Lee knows?

If the bolt is cheap order 2 I would like a spare...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
hoser wrote:
The same bearing used on both sides, 6306 Honda calls for a 6306 C3 on the clutch side, wonder what the difference is?


C3 refers to the internal clearance of the bearing ( the gaps between the balls and the raceways ).

A C3 bearing has a greater than standard clearance.

OK - The boundary sizes are the same.

The 6306 has an internal clearance of 5 to 20 microns
The 6306C3 has an internal clearance of 13 to 28 microns.
Hope this helps...Baz


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