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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
"Hey there little spud go get daddy a BFH and a beer"


"2 weeks ago I couldnt spell mechanix today I am one"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
hmm

Chisel on

Chisel off



Torque whats that?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Used the BFH and a big log under the shade tree to change the rod?

Wait until you see the gasket surfaces...


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 Post subject: bearings
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 10:38 pm
Posts: 228
Location: Knoxville, TN
the "S" indicates that the bearing is stainless steel. http://www.bearingworks.com/bearing1.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 1:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Wonder why only on one side?

Temperature thing?

Mudbogger's Engine didnt have a "S" bearing..

Got the piston today BTW thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:40 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 10:38 pm
Posts: 228
Location: Knoxville, TN
glad to hear you got it. How did your crank look when you got it out?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Crank looks good except for the parts of the roller cage that are missing, it looks
and feels good with no wear you can feel and the side clearance is spot on, this
is looking through the oil slot once apart it might show more when I can hold the
rod and pin in my hands, right now all I can say is the roller cage failed but why
I dunno, don't seem to be a lubrication issue or over heating, vibration? Heat
cycles?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
I am by no means a bearing expert...acually I don't know anything about them, but I have a few customers that are...they all tell me that Nachi is their "economy" line. Whenever I ask them to get me a few bearings they will not send me a Nachi bearing and always direct me to NTN or Koyo.

Why do you think Honda would use Nachi in there Engine and Koyo and NSK for thier other bearing applications? Whats up with that?

I was at my warehouse today and started looking at all the bearings I had, every Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki bearing I had was either Koyo or NSK...not a single nachi bearing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
DC wrote:
I am by no means a bearing expert...acually I don't know anything about them, but I have a few customers that are...they all tell me that Nachi is their "economy" line. Whenever I ask them to get me a few bearings they will not send me a Nachi bearing and always direct me to NTN or Koyo.

Why do you think Honda would use Nachi in there Engine and Koyo and NSK for thier other bearing applications? Whats up with that?

I was at my warehouse today and started looking at all the bearings I had, every Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki bearing I had was either Koyo or NSK...not a single nachi bearing.


Dunno why Honda is using them, in your pile of parts you have any 6306 C3 bearings
or a S6306 C3 ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
sorry no 6306 that I could find. If you want I can get you a price on a set from NTN.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Here is a quick update I cut .020 off my squish, this cleaned up most of the damage
there is a few small spots I didnt chase at this time, this dome was used with a .024
copper head gasket so before I cut any more I need to check the actual squish
clearance on my assembled Engine before I can do any more to this dome,
if I need to take another .005 out of the squish to get the proper clearance then all
the marks should be removed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:17 am
Posts: 192
The head cleaned up pretty good. What type of radius tool are you using in your lathe?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
No radius tool yet, if I can find one at a reasonable price some day I might
buy one for now I have to wing it and do it the old fashion way heh


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:17 am
Posts: 192
that's a pretty slick ideal. You doing it by hand with lapping compound. What did you use to do the combustion chamber.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I rough it out free hand using a standard cutter then I have a large radius cutter I use
then sand paper, takes me 10x longer than if I had the radius tool but I don't do enough
of them to justify buying one new, I seen a few sites where guys made their own but
just never messed with it, another 10 years maybe I will find a used CNC at a good
price hehe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2004 2:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Ok I did a little more on the dome for my head, I am trying something I have never used
but Macdizzy and a few others that hang out at his message board have tried this with good
success.

With my dome being damaged in the poofkaboom I had to remove material from the
squish to clean up the damage this increases the squish thickness (distance between
the top of the piston and outside area of the head) by removing the thickness of the
head gasket I was using I can still use this dome but that means I something to seal
the combustion pressures from the coolant and keep the coolant out of the combustion
chamber, I used a o ring on another dome and after 60 hrs use I didnt like the wear
I was seeing on the o ring itself, the ring looked as if it was scrubbing inside the groove,
it could be the guy from pro design cut the groove to big maybe it was a low quality
o ring?

This time around I will be using a copper o ring made from copper wire, first I had to
custom grind a cutter to make the groove then put the copper in the groove until
the ends meet so I can judge the length, cut file and sand the ends down to they
mate perfectly, once all this is done I clamped the dome to a plate and seen there
was .017 gap between the head and plate so I lapped it down this also added surface
area to the the copper o ring, currently i have .010 between the dome and plate
before I lap it down more I want to put it on a cylinder and torque it up then try
to measure the gap through the bottom of the cylinder.

The red arrow is pointing to where the ends of the copper meet up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2004 2:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
The wire and before the groove was cut.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2004 2:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Measuring the gap,my make shift way of simulating torque, I don't think the shell
once torque will squish the copper .010


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Going back together


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
More


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