Here are some pics of the noted external damage I found, caveman at its best, reminds me of the ludedude hammer together rebuilding saga..

One of the dowels crushed, kinda common and easy to do when installing the Engine if the Engine mount plates are not 100% right.

I point this out to remind owners to be 100% sure you have the plates lined up correctly before you tighten the Engine bolts, if you have to draw the plates up tight with the bolts your crushing these dowels!

Caveman, I get the impression they tried to PRY the clutch off the Engine among other things, this is classic SKILLBILLY mechanics at its best


Said it before but I will say it AGAIN for those that are REALLY REALLY slow and special, you WONT need a pry bar to work on a HONDA, if you feel the need to PRY on something to take it apart your a DUMBASS so STOP IT!

Notice the wrong bolt?

How you torque it?

More caveman damage...

Notice the wrong bolt?

Notice the missing bolt?

Seal is distorted....




Said it before but I will say it AGAIN for those that are REALLY REALLY slow and special, you WONT need a pry bar to work on a HONDA, if you feel the need to PRY on something to take it apart your a DUMBASS so STOP IT!

One spot is where they pryed on the clutch, the other spot is where it looks like they used a HAMMER to HAMMER the cylinder ON I have an idea the cylinder locating dowels were not fitting right, this is a common problem later in this build I will show you how to correct this so the cylinder installs with NO FORCE APPLIED

Notice the wrong case bolt?

Notice BOTH cylinder nuts are WRONG?

The cylinder nut on the right is a LOCKING nut how do you TORQUE a LOCKING NUT ?

Wrong nuts

3 WRONG head nuts, the first nut I tried to remove was VERY TIGHT so I used my torque wrench on the others and found them all 30-35 FT LBS to break them loose, WAY over torqued and NOT torqued evenly.

Wrong bolts used on the reed cage, 4 of them look like they came from the hardware store, the other 2 look like bolts used on the exhaust manifold ALL SIX don't have a large enough head on them to properly support the casting and apply the proper clamping force to the manifold, they will all be replaced with the proper HONDA bolts.

Recoil removed, seal has been leaking

A closer look whilst washing off some oil you can see CAVEMAN ATTACK

Once off you can see the damage, I pulled the recoil basket off with my hands.

Seal is toast, you can see dirt in the lips of the seal and the seal is distorted.

Almost ALL the places a radiator hose connects is DISTORTED this is because someone used a pliers trying to get a hose off, as you can see that is a BAD idea.

Lets take a look inside, with the head off you can see all kinds of damage, not sure how this damage happen I can only assume it happen whilst the head was off the Engine, not sure why someone would think the head would seal with deep gouges in it right where it needs to be perfectly flat, their is signs of deep heavy corrosion on this head, this theme carries on into the cylinder and crank shaft, read on...

I am not sure how the holes got worn and egg shaped, perhaps the Engine was run with the head lose?

This Engine would be a prime candidate for one of Speedchasers cool heads!

Who ever assembled this Engine used copper coat on the gasket, dunno WHY, stupid I guess, this Engine had NO CHANCE of the head gasket sealing wait until you see the rust on the top of the cylinder.

The piston was installed with the ARROW facing the right way, see the rust on the top of the cylinder? BIG hunks of RUST you can SEE and FEEL not sure how this mechanic thought it would seal lol

Plenty of light scuffs on the cylinder wall from dirt and crap in the bottom end.

Their is plenty of oil in the bottom end, you can see this crankshaft at one time was very rusted and pitted then sand blasted, you also can see all kinds of corrosion on the crank cases, the rod appears to be be tight and at this point I think the crank has been rebuilt, NOT knowing any of the history of this Engine at this point form what I have seen I have to ASSume the Engine poofkaboom and the top end was removed then the Engine sat outside and rusted up REAL GOOD, enough to rust and pit the cases and crank, then it was taken apart and the rod rebuilt then assembled to be sold.


Notice all the crap and dirt around the crank bearing oil holes?

Look at all the crap under the piston?

Notice the special numbers scratched on the inside of the piston skirt?

Dark spots on the inside of the crank shaft web is RUST that is soaked up with oil..

Look close you can see pitting.

Piston removed the AS found dirt in the piston pin and bottom of the piston.

If the Engine was run in this condition how long you think it would last?

As the piston goes down and the wrist pin passes the transfer ports that dirt from inside the wrist pin would be washed out to where?

A clean towel used to wipe the inside of the small end of the rod.

Whats cool about the Pilot crank is you can stuff a clean towel in below the rod and rotate the crank and the towel will clean the bottom end, lets see what we find

A close up of the findings, all kinds of crap including a chunk of aluminum.. what a mess.

Rust blue arrows and a little too much Yammabond (could be 3 bond I guess) red arrows

Strange gouges at the bottom of the inlet ports not sure if that is from broken parts damage or from someone with a grinder I will look closer later.

See the rust all over the cylinder (green arrows)

Who is RMC, that is under the reed cage...

Reed cage looks NEW!

Look at all the crap behind the reed cage

Look at the rust on the top of the cylinder, you can feel it, I bet its .001 tall, you can scratch it off with your finger nail, I cant understand HOW the owner thought the head gasket was going to SEAL I guess he thought the copper coat was a miracle CURE for his STUPIDITY, again I get the feeling this thing was thrown together for a quick sale, you see the black muck on the paper towel that was behind the reed cage, that was their when the Engine was assembled, why was it not washed out?