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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Well first I have to apologize for the delay in posting these pictures I have been super busy these days and completely beat after work to the point I don't even feel like reading every post or email I receive I just kinda skim the batch of unread post and emails and pick something that looks inviting to read, havent been this busy in years I feel like a sissy maybe I need to start wearing a pink skirt?

Ok enough of the excuses here is what your really looking for.

DC sent me his Pilot Engine for a top end rebuild and a CSI he wanted me to make a assessment of the bottom end, he sold his Pilot to a guy that lives in Australia (Aussie Hoon) he wants the Engine fresh before shipping it so far, Aussie Hoon then contacted me and wanted me to hoserize the cylinder who wouldn't want more power and he might as well get it done while it leaves here, everybody seems to be happy with my hoserization lets face it when I get done they are more pleasurable to drive and run so much better, crisper throttle response, more power everywhere etc. just ask anybody who has had theirs done in public or private if you like, get your own real world honest feed back from owners that has been hoserized.

When I get a Engine the first thing I do is go over the outside with a fine tooth comb looking for anything that is not right, shipping damage, stress cracked or damaged cases, missing or damaged fasteners etc. sometimes I have to spend a great deal of time removing the grease and grime from the Engine before I am able to inspect not the case here DC had the Engine almost spotless outside the only thing I found wrong was one of the Engine mount dowel pins was damaged so it was replaced, when installing a Pilot Engine you have to be 100% sure you install the rear Engine mount plates correctly, they have to be fully seated perfectly before and WHILE you tighten the bolts if their is any gaps or they are not perfectly seated when you tighten the bolts the plates will crush the dowel pins and the Engine will not be installed correctly, this can mess up the clutch alignment can cause improper clutch shifting and short belt and clutch life. Its easy to screw this up, sometimes when you install the Engine it will just fall together the plates will fall into the dowel pins and stay their whilst your installing the bolts, nuts and tighten them up other times it will fight you every inch of the way.

I install the front mounts and bolts first then rotate the Engine back to the trans and install the plates so you have some support and help keeping the Engine straight while installing the mount plates.


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File comment: Here is the damaged dowel
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File comment: NEW dowel installed
DSC06771.JPG [48.46 KiB]
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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
With the top end off everything looked ok other than a slight rust on the cylinder wall but no damage done, there was slight wear on the piston and rings enough wear to warrant a rebuild for sure but not worn to the point of calling it neglect, the piston was worn enough the clearances would have been excessive if reinstalled with a fresh set of rings a new .25mm over bore piston was installed, the cylinder was given a fresh hone and the port bevels around the port openings was restored.

Looking at the pics you can see scuffing on the exhaust side of the cylinder wall this was caused by dirt or grit entering the exhaust port, I have seen this before on my own Pilot it usually comes from something inside the pipe, carbon or rust from setting it then works its way into the cylinder while removing the Engine and pipe, then when the Engine is rotated over it scratches the piston and cylinder wall, this happen while the Engine was NOT running I could still see the dirt on the parts none of the scuffing was deep or damaging you could not feel any wear on the cylinder or the piston just see the light scuffing, I would not be afraid to disassemble a Engine with this damage, remove the dirt and grit then assemble and continue to run it, the pictures make it look much worse that is really is.


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
If you look at the top of the piston and the cylinder head you can see DC jetting was on the right side, the carbon layer on the piston does not extend all the way to the outside edges of the piston and the head only has a partial layer of carbon buildup, with the jetting on the rich side the combustion temps never reaches the point where its hot enough to burn off the fresh mixture and stick on all the surfaces.

IMO the jetting was spot on there is no really big power gains to be had by leaning the jetting out more than this for what DC was using his Pilot for, just general riding, if he was racing a points series then it would be worth leaning it out for more power, as it was jetted he could take his Pilot out on a 30 degree day and run it as normal and not fear leaning out and seizing the Engine yet also never foul a spark plug if he cleaned it regularly, well maybe he might foul one on one of them HOT and HUMID days when it was 95 degrees and 100% humidity you know the ones where you notice its even hard for you to breath lol

Now the cylinder has been hoserized I would want to fatten up the jetting and do some testing.


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File comment: Normally the carbon would extend all the way out to the edges of the piston.
DSC06720.JPG [118.34 KiB]
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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
With the top end off you could see the bottom end was clean and tight no noticeable wear on the rod or bearings, no rust, no signs of dirt getting past the air filter etc.


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
While I had the Engine on my bench I suggested we also change the clutch side crank seal and the right case seal located right behind the recoil starter, these two seals are open to the elements and wear fast, the right side crank seal is located in the balancer case and is clean and well oiled all the time by the balancer oil these last for ever.

You see the normal rust on the crankshaft that is between the clutch and the Engine case, this is why its a good idea to put some oil on the shaft every once and a while its a bitch to get too with everything installed but can be done with a zoom spout oiler.

What happens is the rust creeps under the outer lip of the seal the outer lip is a dust seal once it wears the outer lip then dirt is allowed into the second lip that seals the crank cases then more moisture attacks the crank surface behind the seal lips.


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Crank is cleaned up and rust removed, rinsed off before the old seal is removed.


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Old seal removed no groove or excessive wear on the seal surface, no rust on the bearing.


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Seal behind the recoil was replaced no abnormal wear was present, looks like this seal has been replaced before in the past?


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
A few shots of the hoserized cylinder


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 Post subject: Re: DC Pilot CSI
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
The top of the cylinder was lapped to ensure it was flat and it was, their was no signs of the head gasket leaking.

I also lapped the stock head it was nice and flat, a Speechaser Pilot cool head was installed so if anybody needs a good stock head here is one for you.

I thought I took pictures of the Speedchaser head installed but I didnt maybe DC can take some and post?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 5:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:05 am
Posts: 84
Location: Australia
Thanks Hoser looking great, what causes the rust in the bore?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Aussie Hoon wrote:
Thanks Hoser looking great, what causes the rust in the bore?


I would assume off season storage? Not sure how often DC has been using his Pilot maybe he can chime in.

After your done riding for the day or weekend, month or what ever before you shut the Engine off you should pull the choke and feather the throttle with just enough RPM's to keep the Engine running but still not flood out and die, get it smoking and blubbering good then shut it off, this dumps excess gas/oil into the cylinder and bottom end, sooner or later the gas will evaporate and leave behind the oil, its a good idea to every weeks to crank the Engine over, not start it just turn it over a few times to redistribute the oil inside the Engine.

No signs of rust any place but on the upper cylinder wall no damage done this happens more often that one might think .


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
The Pilot had not been started for about 6-7 months....sadly its the reason I had to sell it....


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
A quick video of the finial ride before it ships off to Aussieland...

I would highly reccomend having Hoser work his magic on your Engine, this pilot runs better than ever. Its almost making me reconsider selling it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5__6wtXyFp8



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 11:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
In the video it sure sounded good as well as seam to run real good. "H" sure did some nice work on that cylinder. I bet your gona miss it for sure.


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