Well, first let me say thanks for the support I have received already in the forums on my fuel pump questions.

I bought the old gal a few weeks ago for my boy knowing that it was not running and being told by the guy I bought it from that it has low compression.
I did not believe it when my compression tester read a big fat zero.
So I took off the head to investigate and very quickly the problem became visible!! LOL
BOOM!!
So I have now started the process of removing just about every nut and bolt to get this Engine out. PITA
I'm sure ya'll already know this though. Right

It appears to have the original ART Piston in the unit which is a good thing.
So other that fixing the piston issue and putting in new crank seals and checking the starter issue ive read about, is there any other thing I need to do while this Engine is out??
I do not want to pull it again

How do you remove the big driven pulley on the left side of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))? Not sure is proper name. The one the belt goes over. Not the clutch, the other one.
I do have a service manual but it still seems a bit unclear due to the fact that I cant really see the pictures to well.
I do see a bolt on it that of course will have to come off.

I will keep this post updated with pictures and progress as I go.

The piston in that machine isn't an ART piston. If memory serves me right, ART pistons have a flat top. That piston is domed and more than likely a Weisco.

I see one big issue that you are going to need to address and that's the fuel pump it has on it. I don't know what it's off of but it sure as hell isn't OEM. Who knows what the delivery rate of that thing is and is more than likely a contributor the the burnt piston.

If you are talking about the clutch that is attached to the Engine then you will need a puller tool which is essentially a bolt that threads into the clutch and then pushes against the end of the crankshaft.

Rand

Welcome to the site do you have a service manual? You need a clutch puller to remove the clutch from the crankshaft.

All kinds of FL350 Engine CSI's on this site viewforum.php?f=26

No shortage of FL350 gurus on this site to help you I think the members and the brain power here has already addressed any problem the FL350 could have I am sure they will chime in soon to help you out.

Yes Randman, you were right. It is a Weisco 80.5

So I now have three more sizes from what I have gatheres searching the forum and web.

Taking it tomorrow to my machine shop guy and let him tell me what size to get.

Looks like you have a complete rebuild ahead of you.
Since you have it apart anyways take your starter apart and check the brushes.
Also do the vent modification so that the starter don't fill up with oil and go poof.
The vent mod is easy. You will need a ford radiator drain plug (pictures below) and you will also need a can-am bellows (bellows from a 2007 Can Am 500CC Outlander part number 705400352).
Below are the pictures you need for this. The only pic I can't find is the one where you need to plug the existing vent hole which is located across from the flywheel in the top right corner of that casing. You can plug it with any screw and some red silicone. It is about 1/8" in diameter.
The starter re&re is straight forward.

I would also like to add that you should not use a paper cylinder base gasket.
I think you can see why right ??

Was also looking at your rear caliper. Needs a re&re.
In the pics below there are the part numbers and from which machine you can get the parts.
You won't find the dust seal anywhere so give it up. Run without it.

She looks cold out there in the snow don't forget to have your machinist relieve the exhaust bridge on the jug, I cant remember how much but its all here on the forum. Drill the three holes in the piston. So much to read here and lots of info to get the job done right. Theres lots of good Engine builders out there but lots of smart fellers here to improve upon the 350 rebuild job. If memory serves me correctly, when you buy the new piston, there will be paperwork in the box telling you to machine an extra thousandths of an inch(need to verify this measurement) out of the jug, this is in addition to the wiseco calculator, the extra clearance has been debated here before, as far as the actual measurement I cant remember how much but info is here and can be found if you search like a madman

Sorry for going off topic

canadian oddy

? The small o-ring 91358-964-006 does your caliper still have the retaining sleeve it that holds it in place.

As they are not listed by Honda

The other thing, in the pics of your Oddy there are no air scoops. I can see your running a WaterCooled head
But I would still run the scoops for the finned barrel.

Wyeeoddy

1) small o-ring retaining sleeve ?? Not sure what you mean. That o-ring sits in a groove and the rod which is attached to the piston for the e brake slides through it.
2) no air scoops --- don't need them. My Engine has a liquid cooled cylinder as well. There are still some air cooling fins below the exhaust port but the intake charge will cool the bottom end.
We went for a ride today (no crashes to report -- sorry) and the Engine temps never went over 140'F on my machine and not over 120'F on my brothers machine. They ran like crap because I messed with the jetting over the winter and this was the first run. Just finished changing it all back. Will make a run up the same mountain tomorrow if it is sunny again. Very nice ride today and even ran into some snow way up.

See pics

The retaining sleeve stops the o-ring moving up the shaft. I know the
brake fluid should hold it in place but when there is no brake lever pressure
and you rip the hand ( park ) brake on and there is a heap of pad wear the o-ring
may pop out.

I have substituted a helical key ring for one of them as it fell off the bench and I
stepped on it and trashed it

Well I guess I never really noticed that when I did the rebuilds. I picked the o-ring out with a pick.
I will have to check that out more closely the next time. Will check the manual in a few minutes to see if they even show it to me. As for pad wear, I actually cut an aluminum spacer for the front of the piston and this spacer is what pushes on my pads. I did this because I didn't want the piston protruding out of the caliper so far. Looks like you are gona have to cut one on the lathe you two left footed kangaroo.

Back on topic I found a pic of the vent hole you must plug if you do the vent mod.
This photo was taken before I did the liquid cooled conversion so it is an older picture.
It was taken even before I did the vent mod.

Just in case you are going to do the starter rebuild here are the part numbers.
There is a tremendous amount of info on this site about these machines but by the time you find what you are looking for you are already a year older. It's all here you just need time to find it all. Sometimes it is just fast to ask.

Well, got a lot done last night. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is out. along with everything else. What a PITA.

Got a lot of parts on order right now.

I think I can go back with the 80.5 Wiseco Piston without having to bore up to the next size. Just a good hone.

Yes I have already pulled the starter. I figured while it out do it! Right?

How good are the starter rebuild kits that I have seen on ebay?

Are they crap? or should I spend the extra on factory parts?

Canadian Oddy, the picture you posted of the hole to plug..What do I do next with the drain cock- and bellows??

You guys are two steps ahead of me already on things that I was thinking I need to do..keep it coming!

Thanks

Crankcase MOD

Canadian Oddy, I see it now on your pic. So I'm guessing that I take out the filling screw that in there now and put this drain plug into that and attach the hose and bellows?? Looks fairly simply. What is the other piece that looks like it is plumbed into the clear hose on the lower left of your picture? I see the piece at the top of the frame. Is this other piece I see something else that comes with this bellows kit??

Let's take these one at a time.
1) No one here likes Chucklnuts motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) spurts but I always go with Honda stuff if I can, your choice
2) I will explain from top to bottom -- Bellows then some hose then filter (fuel filter is what I use) then some hose to Ford rad plug (I JB weld and silicone my hose into the Ford plug) then screw the Ford plug into the casing where the dip stick goes into the counter balancer. The Ford drain plug needs to have the two tits cut off of the bottom -- you will see when you buy it. It's just plastic anyways so it won't be an issue.
3) thing at the top of the frame --- that's the bellows
4) Plugging the original "VENT" hole -- Look at the picture, top right corner. Small hole.

You might want to check you intake boot for the carb. Make SURE there are no cracks. These units are old and will crack easily and then you have an air leak. Don't buy the one from aftersucks it is no good trust me. It's a Danifold or make your own.

When you guys are making the vent mod, make the hose which runs from the modified Ford F150 radiator petcock up to the bellows as large as possible, do not use small tubing. The larger hose allows for air to pass through the oil that is bubbling up the hose.

The smaller the tubing, the easier it is for the air to push the oil up the tubing.

Rand

Ah..was unaware of the unlike for "BLANK BLANK" motors being new to this forum. My bad and none of my business.
I can get parts else where.

I'm following your leads , I will buy OEM Honda if available.

I am missing a piece for the brakes.
Any source for one of these or anyone got an extra laying around?? Or will one be ok?

RETAINER, BRACKET (NOT AVAILABLE)

45112-VM0-006

I am also missing the complete airbox assembly, would like to get a stock one if anyone has one..will pay of course.
If not then I can weld a tube and bracket to make a riser for a filter for cheap. I cant see paying 100 for the ones on ebay, when I can make one for 5 dollars.

Retainer bracket -- you make your own out of tuna can lids (no bull)
Finding them might be an issue.
Air box -- I have the stock boxes for my two machines but don't use them but don't want to part with them either. I use after market K&N filters and socks which I make out of womens nylons. Some here hate the K&N and I will agree they are nothing but high priced fly screen but that's what I use because I don't care if I have to rebuild engines. I would rather build engines than drive these sometimes, that's just my personality.

I use a triple wrapped K&N on my Ody and it works just fine and even keeps the fine Nevada silt out of my Engine.

Rand

Well, not much going on right now with the 350.
The cylinder is at the machine shop. Im waiting on a phone call so I can order my piston.

In the mean time I have a lot of cleaning to do to the transmission and motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

I have a bunch of little misc. parts that Im waiting for in the mail.