I am about to remove the Engine this weekend due to a hole in the piston. I pulled the head and found that it was loose above the exhaust port and that is why it leaned out. I'll post some picks soon. I had the cylinder checked today and it needs bored to 81mm, I checked the rod to crank play and it is worn out. So I am going to do a complete rebuild, I figure that while I am doing the rebuild I may as well do the head and cylinder mod and make it water cooled. I will need a lot of advice on that one. I have searched and read the threads on hear about the mod so I have a idea about what it is going to take but I'm sure that I will have questions so any help will be appreciated. I talked to the guy at oddyatv1 today and he gave me a good deal (or I think so) on a full rebuild kit. He has the double lip seal that everybody has been wanting. He told me that he had a couple of thousand made so I am going to buy a couple of them. If anyone has tried one out let me know what you think please. Any tips on the rebuild will sure be needed. Thanks Billy

I got my double lip seal for the crank at simplybearings in the U.K.
It took nine days for the seals to get here and they were good to deal with.
Five seals cost $30uk money so that's about 60 bux Canadian I think but not sure.
They sent them by mail not courier so it's cheaper.

good deal I was scared that I wasn't going to find one for the rebuild. So did you order them for repairs or are you rebuilding? Thanks Billy

Today I am starting on the head, cutting the fins off and prepping for clean up. In the past how has it been done to route the water through the head and the cylinder? I am sure there has been some better than others, If you have done this or even seen it on one let me know how it was done. I have came up with a couple of ideas but not set on just one yet. Thanks Billy

Member "Canadian Oddy" converted a stock head recently on here, and they welded in a wall so that the coolant was forced to go all he way around the head chamber from inlet to outlet.

Here it is...http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13009

The pic is attached, too.

Thanks Dmoneyallstar I will send him a pm and see how it turned out. I read his thread already and am very interested in the way he was doing it. Thanks Billy

I am doing a re&re on my oddy.
One small problem just popped up. The UK seals are 3mm wider. (See my OH NO thread).

I read your thread on that, is the lip to wide or the metal part of the seal? I ran into that on another project one time and all I had to do was file the metal down to the right size. I talked to Johnny at oddatv1 and he said the ones that he has are to manufactures specs. I'm not sure what he charges for them but if they are the right part then you can't go wrong.
I read where you were working on a head to make it water cooled, are you finished with it yet and if so how is it working for you? have you found anything that you think you should do different? I saw the plate you put in to make it have more of a directional movement of the water, is that to cool more in a certain area or more evenly across the head? I know I am full of questions but I want to do this once and get it right. LOL Also are you making the cylinder water cooled? I am going to do both (if one is good, two is better). Any help would sure be appreciated. Here is a couple of pics that show the piston and cylinder, The cylinder didn't have any major damage to my surprise. But I want everything right when I go up with it.

The project is not complete yet. I am still waiting for the water pumps.
The "plate" is so that the water flows around the head. If you don't put a divider in then the water will just go the easiest route and go in and straight out.
The cylinder is also water cooled.
I have two threads here - one is called making a fl350 water cooled head and the other is called making a fl350 water cooled cylinder. Check them out. Use the search box to find them.
That piston looks like two I replaced on my brothers machine. These machines just get to hot for various reasons everyone knows about already. I like tinkering with engines so I don't mind playing around and I have a nice heated shop attached to my house. Don't even go outside in the cold.
With regards to the seal read the OH NO thread.

I read both threads that you have about the water cooling, pretty cool. How are you going to route the water flow from the radiator to the cylinder then the head or the other way around? I see what you are saying about the plate to control direction and I will be doing that as well. I like to tinker with stuff in a warm garage so I know what you mean.
I may use pipe for mine but as of right now I plan on using plate and rolling it to what I need. I can go thinner that way and when it comes to the cylinder it should be easier to form it the way that I want it. Or I hope so. Really I am starting on the fin removal until I get the parts in for the rebuild, then when that is done I plan on getting back to this.
What pumps do you plan on using, so far I have came across a couple of electric pumps but I ain't decided yet. As for the radiator I plan on getting one off of e-bay for a sport quad that isn't to big and with a fan of course. Did you end up with much warping, I plan on lapping the mating surface any way but just wondering. Thanks Billy

Will try to answer each question one at a time:
1) Water route: I have hose nipples screwed into the head and cylinder. I will go from rad to pump to cyl on one side then out cyl on other side to head on one side out of head other side to rad. You will need to look at the pictures in the other threads and I think you will figure it out.
2)What pumps will you be using: I will be running the Bosch pump. I am getting mine out of the states (Florida) from Auto Tech USA 1-866-841-7776. All the other pumps you are probably looking at draw to high of current. Oddy charging system is weak n not designed for a lot of draw. Everyone here seem to be running that pump.
3) Radiator: I am running a rad from a Honda civic I believe it is from. It's all aluminum, fits behind your head in the frame perfectly and only $90 Canadian, new. I am not running a fan cause more draw on electrical system.

Thanks, I said I would have a lot of questions. LOL I looked at those pics and that is what I thought you were doing with the nipples just checking. I will check on the pump next week or so. But I appreciate the help. Thanks Billy

I got all parts ordered, cut the fins off of the head. I'm not sure how everyone else removed the fins but I tried a saw, grinder. band saw and found that the grinder with a cut off wheel works best and faster than any of the other ways. I hope to start removing the Engine tomorrow.

I read at one time on here a guy that was asking about the bridge in the exhaust port was out of a cylinder, can't find the thread yet. I am about to start on my Engine rebuild and was wondering has anyone read the info on chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts about trimming the bridge back in the center to remove excess pressure on the piston when it was at operating temp. I understand the reasoning for this just wondering has anyone tried it or if it makes enough difference. if you know anything that will help let me know please. Thanks Billy

Your talking about relieving the exhaust bridge this has been standard on all 2 strokes for years same with drilling the holes in the exhaust bridge.

https://www.google.com/search?q=style+g ... S:official

Yes this is what I am talking about. The reason that I was asking is when I rebuilt the top end last year I did the bridge work when I ported it. But with the way my piston scarred up I couldn't tell if it had helped or not. I also drilled the piston before I put it in.
Also I have read on here that a 350 wont run with a gravity fuel system, I have ran mine for almost a year and it has worked great. Now I do check the plug at different times when I am out riding and haven't had a lean problem. So is this just a myth or have I just been LUCKY? Didn't you mean in drilling holes in the piston? And who is chucklenuts anyway? LOL

1) The float valve on the stock carb is to small to let enough fuel in by gravity feed. You might run out of fuel during a long WOT (Wide Open Throttle) run. For the life of me I can't understand why people put a gas tank over their FN heads. Why not put your tank at the very back of the machine and then guard it with tube? Isn't that safer than putting it over your head? If you get rear ended real hard it still won't be a problem if it is a fuel cell (they are foam filled). Then run a pump.
2) Drilling the piston: there needs to be two or three holes drilled in piston which are in line with the exhaust bridge. There is a thread or two here on it but info on it also comes in the box with the piston.
3) chucklenuts: Hoser has it in for the guy at chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) Sports. If you type this in on a thread the site auto posts chucklenuts LOL. My brother bought an after market intake from them and it don't fit unless you do some modifying to your machine so don't bother.

1. I am running a larger carb, got rid of the stock one first thing. My tank is up above the Engine, but that is how was when I bought it so it is ok with me. I am using a larger dia. hose for the fuel.
2. I understand the lube holes in the piston, makes good sense to me have done it before and will again.
3. as for chucklenuts I didn't have a clue, hell I didn't put that in the post so I had no idea....LMAO
what water pump did you say you were going to use? I don't use headlights so I'll have a few amps to play with. Did you do the relief on the exhaust bridge yet? Thanks Billy

I just got my two water pumps today from autotechusa.com
They look great and are a bosch unit off of a Mercedes.
$70 each so my bill was $150us for both.
http://www.onlinewholesaleparts.com/mewp-010.html
Phone number is 866-841-7776.
We had some issues with my phone number and email but it was at their end. They boo boo.
But it all worked out in the end. Buy now as they are on sale for $70. Were listed for $200.

Thanks for the information. I will give them a look. Are you going to run one on the inlet side and one on the return or just picked up a extra for the price? Just wondering. Thanks Billy

I will only be running one pump. The other pump is for my brothers machine. If all the mods work that I have done to my machine then I will re&re my brothers machine the same as mine. His is air cooled right now.

Yeah I forgot about your brother having one, I checked the pump out and that maybe the one I use too. Thanks Billy

Since the snow/ice storm is over I got out to my garage today and finished getting my head ready to start the water cooling mod. Here are a few pics. Maybe my parts for the Engine rebuild will be in when I get to work in the morning.

I got my divider welded on today, and the tubing for the head bolts and spark plug picked up. I welded it on with a stick welder using aluminum rods. Worked good, I tried to weld the divider on Friday with a square wave tig and couldn't get it to stick to the head beside of the plug hole. Here are a couple pics of it. It ain't pretty but it is on good.

Here's my oddzilla Engine.
Trying to get it running this week but something always comes up.
How's yours coming ??