Everything cleaned ready for assembly, I put the armature in the lathe and polished up where the brushes ride.

Finished the FMF reed cage and installed the stuffer was warped I have repaired these before with JB weld, not perfect but 100% better also much better than the stock reed cage with after market reeds.

Before





After

Your after market cylinder and head install went off without any problems, I cleaned up the used piston and installed using the new circlips and used rings, honed the cylinder, relieved the exhaust bridge just a little more, the piston you supplied was very low hour and should not give you any problems, run it a season (30-50hrs) then pull the top end off we will inspect it again.

I only have a few pictures of the assembly I took all kinds of pics but cant find them I wonder if my camera or memory card in the camera is getting flaky this camera has taken thousands of pics over the years I have read where the memory cards start giving errors as they age or used a lot?

Anyways I used your supplied cylinder gasket that was already copper coated perfectly, then before installing the head installed a single layer of a used head gasket and measured the squish clearance and found .040 clearance, then assembled the head using your supplied single layer gasket.

I cant wait to see this thing running I bet you will be happy.

I had some other things to do last night but while in the garage I decided to start it for another heat cycle. I checked to my hose clamps were tight. All were. Then I turned on just the water pump and had no leaks and wasn't building pressure at the cap. I pulled the plug, it looks wet/rich. Probably from idling so much. Also saw what looked like a water drop on the plug. Couldn't tell if it was fuel or coolant. I then cranked it over a couple times to make sure the cylinder wasn't full of fuel or coolant. It was dry. Then I started it and immediately the coolant in the reservoir started bubbling and all the tight hose connections are leaking again. I think my head gasket may be leaking compression into the cooling system. Thoughts? Comments? Thanks

Oh, I never updated this. Hoser made a custom .20 thick copper head gasket for me and it finally sealed. Runs really strong, now if I only had the suspension to actually use it. Lol Taught me something. All the power in the world don't mean crap when your not putting it to the ground. Hopefully when I get works shocks I'll be able to really rip it up. But for now I'm only dangerous on flat land.

I like this thread, nice write up. You are exactly right on the suspension, 2 thumbs up on the Works shocks but are pricey. Don't get too over confident with those shocks, still can end up on your lid...I do! Lol

One more suggestion...make some limiting straps so you don't bend the new rear shocks when you get them. I have done that and so have several others.

Gary

Are you talking about limiting straps for shock travel or to keep the wheel from swinging out if something breaks? By the way thanks again Fatcat for the starter. I used the rebuild kit I had already purchased & went together smoothly.many other things I want to do before I put it all together so it will be awhile before I am up & running.
Thanks
Shubey

They limit the wheel from going outward when a u joint completely fails. Happened to me at the cliffs. Did a number on the shock. Didn't get pics but it's scrap metal. Thankfully it was a stock one.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10264&start=25" .".." ."..

Happened right at the end of this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkT9af_JwT8&sns=em

Emailed you a pic of me in mid u-joint snap. That'll show you exactly what happens

Trying to upload pic Fatcat sent me of but a little lost. Sometimes I hate Apple products? Looks like I am moving to the PC

Shubey