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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
Ok i need your help with this f***** clutch. We(denuch and i ) are trying to remove his oem salsbury clutch from his 350 and it wont come off. I have removed the mounting bolt and the large nut under neath it. Next tried to place the remover in the hole and drive it in with a 1/2" impact gun and nothing... We have hit it with big hammer, bigger hammer, kitchen sink. We have tried heat at the Engine shaft contact point and nothing.... Pb blaster behind the pulley in the pulley and everwhere else too. The clutch outer cover is loose as is the outer clutch face but they wont come off because its hitting the frame. HELP.... please advise how to get the inner cluch face off the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))??????? We literally have spent 4 hours on this POS trying everthing under my roof with exception to the 9mm! I took some pics but its hard to tell really whats going on....

I pulled my oem clutch on my 350 2 mo ago and it was nothing like this, 3 hits with the 5# hammer and some impact and she was off!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Please show pictures of the removal tools.

Another method is to pack the threaded area of the clutch with grease. Put as much grease in there until you can't get any more in there. Wrap the end of the bolt you are using to pull the clutch of with teflon (plumbers) tape. Thread the bolt back in and hit it with an impact gun. The bolt and the grease act as a hydraulic press will hydraulic force the clutch off.

It's messy but it works.

Caution: When it lets go, it does so suddenly and usually with a loud pop!

Good luck

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Randman wrote:
Please show pictures of the removal tools.

Another method is to pack the threaded area of the clutch with grease. Put as much grease in there until you can't get any more in there. Wrap the end of the bolt you are using to pull the clutch of with teflon (plumbers) tape. Thread the bolt back in and hit it with an impact gun. The bolt and the grease act as a hydraulic press will hydraulic force the clutch off.

It's messy but it works.

Caution: When it lets go, it does so suddenly and usually with a loud pop!

Good luck

Rand


If you can turn the machine on its side you can use water or break fluid also :-) but beware.. they come off with some real force sometimes (like 100-200fps)! set up a backdrop. If you are using an electric impact it may not be powerful enough also


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
They can be a bitch at times the grease trick usually gets the most stubborn clutches off you just have to keep putting grease in the hole then screwing in the the bolt until their is no way you can pack any more grease inside the idea is you cant compress a liquid and or the grease so when you tighten the bolt the bolt is not only putting pressure pushing on the end of the crank shaft its also building a internal pressure that assist in pushing the clutch off the end of the shaft.

Show us your clutch puller please.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
I ended up cutting mine off.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2866
Location: East Peoria IL
I know you know this but take your time and do not get frustrated. I have seen many people in this kinda situation get pissed off and end up screwing something up. It will come off.

I offer this from personal experience. The one that comes to mind is removong my inner axle hubs from the final shaft on mt FL400.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 31, 2012 6:52 pm
Posts: 44
Thanks guys. We shall try the grease tip tonight, hopefully it will let loose. More to follow I'm sure.
Denuch


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
heres the pics of the puller.... Put grease in 2x now and still nothing....



whats next???

Randy


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
I think your missing part of the puller

Where did you get that puller?

I hope your not messing up the threads that go into the crankshaft.

Usually their is a pin that goes into the hole in the end of the crankshaft and bottoms out against the end of the crankshaft then the bolt in your pictures screws in and PUSHES up against the pin and forces the clutch off the crank.

Anybody here ever pulled the stock clutch on the 350 ?

FL350 Stock Drive Clutch Removal


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
BOOYA....POOOF KABOOMM


ITS DONE!!

DENNIS TOOK THE POP AND ALMOST POOPED HIMSELF...LOL

HES SOME PICS

WE HAD THE TEFLON TO CLOSE TO THE BOLT HEAD
WHEN WE CHANGED IT TO FARTHER DOWN IT POPPED RIGHT OFF!!!!
That is the puller i used on my sals clutch too and it popped right off!
THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED.
HOSER, We plugged the vac lin port behind the clutch and started it up and it runs alot better.... Now to hunt for a duster clutch!!
On another note i got 3 pull thru sites for the july 27 weekend at the badlands campground, i will update that post in a little while...FYI


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Randy J. wrote:
BOOYA....POOOF KABOOMM


ITS DONE!!

DENNIS TOOK THE POP AND ALMOST POOPED HIMSELF...LOL

HES SOME PICS

WE HAD THE TEFLON TO CLOSE TO THE BOLT HEAD
WHEN WE CHANGED IT TO FARTHER DOWN IT POPPED RIGHT OFF!!!!
That is the puller i used on my sals clutch too and it popped right off!
THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED.
HOSER, We plugged the vac lin port behind the clutch and started it up and it runs alot better.... Now to hunt for a duster clutch!!
On another note i got 3 pull thru sites for the july 27 weekend at the badlands campground, i will update that post in a little while...FYI


Clean out the grease and check the threads in the end of the crank.

Did you start the Engine see if it vibrated still?

Here is the pic of the balancer timing marks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
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Location: NW INDIANA
Pics of the clutch which has a flat roller.....Could be the source of vibration???


It runs much better now.

Anyone selling a 94c clutch for a 350???


Randy


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
The clutch puller I have is also a one piece like that. Use it on my 102c. I prefer the one piece over the 2 piece


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 1:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
You need to check to see if the crank has any runout (wobble) before you go any farther.

Pull the spark plug out and have someone slowly pull the pull the pull start rope with a dial indicator resting on the crank end where the clutch attaches. Run out limit is .002" per the manual.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
Here are some pics of the crank after the pull...

how would i correct this? A file and tap? File down the high ridge and clean the threads with a tap?
The bolt wont go in....

Thanks, Randy


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Randy J. wrote:
Here are some pics of the crank after the pull...

how would i correct this? A file and tap? File down the high ridge and clean the threads with a tap?
The bolt wont go in....

Thanks, Randy



Wow that's what I was afraid of yeah your going to have to see if you can chase the threads with a file and a tap.

You check the run out of the crank?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
Uhh no. U need to get a gauge to check runout.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Randy J. wrote:
Uhh no. U need to get a gauge to check runout.


Pull the spark plug and crank the Engine over with the starter see if it looks like it has a wobble, if you need to put something fixed that cant move real close to it and in good lighting have someone hit the starter button see if it wobbles.

You have a harbor freight store in your area you can pick up a dial indicator cheap or maybe where you or a friend works has one you can borrow?

Bad as your Engine was shaking I would do the eye ball test for the heck of it.

If run out is good you have two choices wait for the new clutch and install see if that was it or pull the side cover see if the balancer is lined up.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
Guys, we checked the runout and it was borderline. Denuch is gonna run the season with it and then do a teardown and rebuild this winter. We took a reamer and cleaned out the extra material that got pushed in by the puller and ran a tap into it and just cleaned up the threads etc. Attached is a video of the Engine running with then new 94c duster installed and the vac hole behind the clutch plugged and its runnin fat but alot smoother than it was. So we have to lean it out a little bit and dial her in.

We are looking to go riding again this sun the 24th.We were thinking of goin to rockford to rocky glen seeing as how we did cliffs last week. I will put a post in riding trips too.

Thanks again for all the support and help!! Its time for a few beers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4ZGrhQ5sSk" ."..


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Looking at the video the Engine looks a whole lot smoother its not trying to jump out of the frame.

What pucks and spring did you install with the clutch, when you take off will it spin the tires?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
Hoser, I hate to sound like a knucklehead but the clutch had 6 pucks in it and i don't know which ones they were or which spring it was...But we did take the cover off and lube all 6 pucks with comet lube. Then reinstalled the cover and installed the clutch. WE need to do somr brake work and other misc before the test run too...

Randy


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Randy J. wrote:
Hoser, I hate to sound like a knucklehead but the clutch had 6 pucks in it and i don't know which ones they were or which spring it was...But we did take the cover off and lube all 6 pucks with comet lube. Then reinstalled the cover and installed the clutch. WE need to do somr brake work and other misc before the test run too...

Randy



No worries was trying to get a feel for your clutching am working on Nellys 350 trying to dial in the clutching he has ordered a few springs for me to try. http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=10347

Have any questions on the brakes please ask many 350 gurus here that has been down the total brake system rebuild adjust a few times the 350 brakes can be a bitch.


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