so today after I read hosers mini-essay on Engine breakin, I decided to check to see if the piston was starting to get wear (to make sure that it wasn't getting destroyed). luckily I barely had it at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and I did start out slow but changing rpms as I drove. also before that, I had it running a bit in the garage.

here is what it looks like now.... is this bad?

this is what they look like now

Those are pictures after the cylinder was machined and that is the new piston and rings after you drove it a few times?


If that's true - will someone else jump in - I can not take anymore.

I am still trying to figure out how you get a accurate torque with the dirty rusted threads.

Sorry but im out of this one. Stupidity!!!!!!! Its blown up again. Looks like the old piston was just sanded down and pit back in. No oil holes drilled. Nothing cleaned up. And your worried about tires? Lets see the rest of the odyssey.

Time to sell it and buy a tractor

look honestly I just trusted my friends dad (the mechanic) cuz he knows what hes doing. he said hes dealt with a lot of this stuff and a little scoring is ok. I don't know if it is but he said it was and I trust him. and its very deceiving in the pictures. the little streaks of oil that look like big scores in the new piston actually aren't that bad. that are barely noticeable when your finger over it. it looks worse than it is.

and if it is all wrong then what am I supposed to do differently? i did almost everything hoser said to do in a breakin, ive put a little extra oil in the gas to let it get more lubrication as the piston and cylinder "meet" and idk what im supposed to do differently. im following the manual perfectly. it still runs fine so now, so what can i do to prevent it from getting worse like you guys say? i don't see what im doing wrong!

No lube holes were drilled in the piston you or your guy even bother to read the instructions that came with the piston?

there aren't any lube holes in the piston because the guy who bored the piston relieved the exhaust bridge

We see how that worked out for you, early on gave you links, suggested you read, learn about the 350 Engine and its special requirements then apply them to your machine.

Did you pressure test the Engine after you assembled to see if you had a air leak?

Go through the carb ensure its clean so it does not create a lean condition.

You verify your engines jetting after the rebuild?

yes i cleaned the carburator and it is as clean as it will ever get

hey guys, its been bugging me for a while and i guess i just don't understand why you said to have the fuel mix at 32:1 instead of what the manual said 20:1. why is that?

also what type of transmission oil should i use? i read on this site that one of you guys recommended 80-90W or manual transmission fluid for Honda cars. which one is the best and cheapest?

OH MY GOD!!!
That was really entertaining to read. But seriously, it sounds to me that kiwi is a joke. I CAN NOT believe this is true. Too much stupidity.
How can someone still asking about the oil mixing after saying that he read everything... Why doing a breakin after you rebuild it and you already run it like you stole it???
Oh well...

Wow!

just take the whole thing to a certified atv mechanic and get it done right! or else your obviously going to be spending so much $$$$$$ on top ends. Or switch to a 4 stroke.

Kiwi I just want to chime in here one time maybe two at most.
I see in the pictures the vacuum port for the fuel pump is not plugged !!! and you are running gravity feed. This will lean out your new rebuild and poooffkaboom Engine shot. So my question is was this vacuum port plugged after you did your rebuild ?? Yes or No please.
This whole post has been entertaining.